Squeaky Smog Pump: Should I replace it?

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I have a squeaky smog pump in my 1993 E350, 5.8l. I have had the thing out twice and was able to lube all the bearings pretty well except the front bearing, which I attempted to soak in oil overnight by just setting that end down and putting oil in there. No success. Still squeaks. Don't really know why. No other issues.

Replacement is about $125. I want to take this on vacation this summer. Should i swap it out?

Thanks.
Nibbana
 
Just deleted. In most applications, smog pumps were proven to do nothing at all for emissions. If you would look at many vehicles, you will find that there is actually an EPA mandated delete procedure with documentation.
 
Originally Posted by NibbanaBanana
I have a squeaky smog pump in my 1993 E350, 5.8l. I have had the thing out twice and was able to lube all the bearings pretty well except the front bearing, which I attempted to soak in oil overnight by just setting that end down and putting oil in there. No success. Still squeaks. Don't really know why. No other issues.

Replacement is about $125. I want to take this on vacation this summer. Should i swap it out?

Thanks.
Nibbana


Since you're in the Northeast I assume you have smog inspections that would preclude deleting the smog pump, if that is the case and you choose to replace. Do so with OEM not a cheap Dorman or CarDone replacement as they're absolutely garbage. I wouldn't want to have it lock up on a road trip and shred the belt leaving you stranded with no water pump, power steering, fan or alternator. For that reason I'd replace it.

If no smog checks where you are, delete it.
 
Thanks for your help everybody. It looks like I can delete it simply by removing the pulley and putting on a shorter 97.5 inch belt. We do have emissions testing, but I can register as an antique to avoid it if I have to. My guess is that it will pass without a smog pump. Here are the results of the last test.

HC limit CO limit
Cruise Mode
10 300 0.0 1.6
Idle Mode
7 300 0.0 1.6

One clean running motor.
 
Originally Posted by DoubleWasp
Just deleted. In most applications, smog pumps were proven to do nothing at all for emissions. If you would look at many vehicles, you will find that there is actually an EPA mandated delete procedure with documentation.


Interesting, It's been my experience that AIR systems help a lot with CO emissions output. If the engine in discussion can't maintain stoich (Or leaner) during the test......It will likely fail CO. The Catalyst is quite ineffective at converting CO, Especially at closed throttle/idle. A new Catalyst is good for @ 2% reduction in CO output.
I believe a 93 E350 has a Heated O2 Sensor, So it has that going for it.

Do you have a link to the EPA mandated deletes, I'd like to read about it.
 
https://www.impalassforum.com/tech/engine/air_pump/air_pump.htm

Typed too fast. EPA legal and approved is more like it.

My understanding is the smog pump doesn't even operate but for short periods upon startup. Once the engine is going, they're just paperweights.

The one in my Roadmaster I could hear. Came on for maybe a minute, then nothing.

Unless one towed their car to an emissions testing station and started the engine cold for an immediate emissions test, they would be outside the range of the smog pump's operation anyway.

Good reason to dodge them besides the water contamination issue. I had a check valve go, and smoke came billowing out from under the hood after exhaust went past the check valve burning the entirety of my air injection system (all plastic and rubber upstream of the check valves).

What I've learned about air injection systems is that many do not have the power to push air into the exhaust much beyond idle either. The mechanical system in my 92 has a bypass valve that opens and renders the pump useless pretty much under the same circumstances as my electric pump in the 96 shuts off.

I can also tell you from experience that the Pierberg pumps used in a lot of Euro cars aren't even constant duty pumps. Even with constant 12V applied, they encounter thermal shutdown within minutes.

Smog pumps have a real and true effective purpose on some engines. A company back in the early 2000s got a 450rwhp RX7 to pass California emissions using an industrial catalyst and a LOT of air injection at several points in the exhaust. A GM rag got a high-build 70s Camaro to pass using a similar strategy.

But for tame, low compression, broomstick cammed V8 engines? They had very little work to do, and apparently nothing relevant at all.

010_zpslbt7ly0i.jpg
 
I've always deleted them, and replaced the A.I.R. cat with a high flow one. I did that with my old Bronco when I lived around DC. I lost a lot of faith in emissions testing back then because of what would actually pass the tail sniffer. My Bronco idled its smoothest, and coolest, at 14.5 AFR and 30 degrees of spark advance. It would fail NOX testing though. If I leaned the idle AFR way out to 16.5 AFR and retarded the spark timing to just 4-6 degrees, it would pass with flying colors, but ran terrible. I'd tune it back advanced as soon as I'd leave the emissions station.

I built a 466ci engine for a friend's F350 designed around low rpm torque and towing. I reshaped the intake ports slightly to promote more swirl and cleaned up the exhaust ports so I could delay the exhaust valve opening point with the cam. I also set the quench distance tight. The engine was very responsive, made 80+ lb-ft of torque more than stock, and got better mpg. However, it struggled to pass smog testing. After some research, I found out that the very things that made the engine responsive and more efficient, more swirl, tighter quench, and higher compression, were the exact things causing it to fail emissions. He just kept applying for waivers until he could register it as historic.

You would think an engine would produce less emissions where it's most efficient, but that hasn't been my experience.
 
Originally Posted by dlundblad
How hard is it to replace just the bearings?


I have not found any successful rebuild tutorials anywhere. Internet or elsewhere. The problem appears to be that the pulley mount is pressed on the shaft and can't be removed. That would allow total disassembly. But I don't know about the internal pump parts themselves and how to tell if they're okay. They and/or the bearings may be the problem.
 
Originally Posted by DoubleWasp
https://www.impalassforum.com/tech/engine/air_pump/air_pump.htm

Typed too fast. EPA legal and approved is more like it.

My understanding is the smog pump doesn't even operate but for short periods upon startup. Once the engine is going, they're just paperweights.

The one in my Roadmaster I could hear. Came on for maybe a minute, then nothing.

Unless one towed their car to an emissions testing station and started the engine cold for an immediate emissions test, they would be outside the range of the smog pump's operation anyway.

Good reason to dodge them besides the water contamination issue. I had a check valve go, and smoke came billowing out from under the hood after exhaust went past the check valve burning the entirety of my air injection system (all plastic and rubber upstream of the check valves).

What I've learned about air injection systems is that many do not have the power to push air into the exhaust much beyond idle either. The mechanical system in my 92 has a bypass valve that opens and renders the pump useless pretty much under the same circumstances as my electric pump in the 96 shuts off.

I can also tell you from experience that the Pierberg pumps used in a lot of Euro cars aren't even constant duty pumps. Even with constant 12V applied, they encounter thermal shutdown within minutes.

Smog pumps have a real and true effective purpose on some engines. A company back in the early 2000s got a 450rwhp RX7 to pass California emissions using an industrial catalyst and a LOT of air injection at several points in the exhaust. A GM rag got a high-build 70s Camaro to pass using a similar strategy.

But for tame, low compression, broomstick cammed V8 engines? They had very little work to do, and apparently nothing relevant at all.



Thanks for the link, I was working as a GM dealer tech when LT1 B&D bodies were new. I don't remember doing any modifications outlined in the TSB.....Doesn't mean I didn't though!

The theory of operation you outlined is correct for most applications & just about ALL iterations of Secordary Air Injection used in the last 25 years.

However.....Some of the old Batch-Fire PFI systems (A lot of Carbureted vehicles as well) had to have air injection at the catalyst/s after engine & catalyst warm-up to control CO.
The Air Pump would pump air into the manifolds during open loop operation.....After warm-up & catalyst light-off, The Air Control Valve would close & air would be pumped into the middle of the 2 catalyst substrates. The only time the Air Diverter/Bypass Valve in this system would open & dump to atmosphere is during deceleration.

I believe the zone between the 2 Subtrates in the Converter is low pressure & the Air Pump can deliver a good amount of O2.


I guess if the OP deletes the AIR system.....We'll see if CO can be controlled without it (If he reports back?) It may be wise just to remove the Smog Pump belt & see if it will pass CO??
 
This is going back so long I cant remember all the ins and outs of the job but we did an 82 (it was new at the time thats why I remember it) Grand Prix 3.8 and with the belt disconnected it had a lot of pinging. Any idea why this would be, yes it has a carb.
 
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