Spray foam insulation - PA installer

Quick pic of what I'm talking about. (Not to scale obviously).

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Refer to posting #4.There are a few options. I would start by cutting a square hole along one of the studs of the lower 1 ft of the side wall. Use a stud locator from a hardware store. Cut the square about the size of an electrical box. Use a good LED flashlight to take a look at what you have for insulation. If it’s empty in there you can go with foam or you can go with batts. If you go with batts you would the cut the drywall away from the floor to where the roofline intersects the outside of the wall. Then stuff the entire volume with fibreglass batts and staple plastic over top and chalk the seams before replacing the drywall.

If you see plywood when you remove the square of drywall, you need to cut a hole in that plywood and see if there is insulation in the cavity. Foam sounds like a good way to get that floor area outside the wall insulated. Also if the plywood is there you can finish off by foaming the cavity between the dry wall and the plywood.

If there was no plywood, you could make hole like the first one beside each stud, purchase a foam kit and lay in 3 inches of foam on the floor outside the wall and along the inside of the roof line right to the end where the roof meets the floor.

It would be worthwhile to check the header area beneath the floor. That header needs to be insulated but would require cutting a hole on the garage ceiling to inspect it.
 
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They advertise spray foam insulation like crazy in my area. What am I missing with this? I know it's been mentioned in this thread, but what a nightmare it would be to have to do electrical or plumbing work in those areas once it's encased in expanding foam. Those walls are forever sealed.
 
They advertise spray foam insulation like crazy in my area. What am I missing with this? I know it's been mentioned in this thread, but what a nightmare it would be to have to do electrical or plumbing work in those areas once it's encased in expanding foam. Those walls are forever sealed.
They will respond that most electrical work is done at junction boxes. Stinging a new wire inside a normal wall requires ripping out drywall. I recall building a new home and I had to talk with the plumber and electrician before we commenced the drywall. Since then, no changes required in 12 years.
 
sounds like a good reason to buy one of those infrared temperature "Guns" to see exactly what areas are cold. Maybe its as simple as seal up the plugs, or add another layer of rigid foam and drywall to the knee wall, or just a nice big heavy rug under your work area.

Using a contractor I would not sweat an incorrect mix / health hazard at all... professional contractor using commercial equipment seems dummy proof, it's all about the application I think. Now ambient temperature is a consideration... IDK

I looked into this pretty hard... Closed cell is the Cadillac and priced accordingly, really pays off where there is limited depth, like the cavities you describe. If you have 6x or 8x open cell is a LOT cheaper, but you do loose the bonus vapor barrier of the closed cell. same with ceiling where you have basically unlimited "Depth" available.

Better do a price check; I saw almost $3k to do the whole roof of a singe family home :oops:. Obviously prices vary by region and quantity, but smells like at least $1k for a garage floor and walls. (Then you have to replace the drywall in your office walls and the garage ceiling. Price of rigid insulation, like lumber is stupid high now, if looking at more than a couple sheets, definitely want to check with a building supply place versus HD or Lowes.

If I had the spare coin 100% I would do the a 18" border of closed cell on the inside "Sill?" face and the underside of the floor in the basement plus replace the blow in stuff in the ceiling with a combo of open and closed cell. I think the ROI was 5-7 years plus nearly infinite life of spray vs blown-in (That settles, attracts moisture and eventually needs replacement or a top off)

Earlier post had a very good point. Make any improvements to electrical or whatever before additional insulation.

final consideration: a family member complained about cold in a similar situation and was CRANKING up the heat. but had zero under them (Had shut off all basement vents). They increased the temp in the floor below them and it made a big difference in perceived "Coldness" and the net energy used was less than when they were cranking it up (Insulation improvements were not an option for them and energy costs were not as high then though)
 
IIRC the ultimate, time/money/space is no object option was:

- exterior (cold/hot) >
- siding/shingles >
- Tyvek/roof felt >
- Sheathing >
- Joists/studs (All joints and seams 100% sealed with appropriate "caulk" >
- 1-2" of spray closed cell in all cavities (Max depth they can/will apply of closed is 2" (Maybe due to weight?) >
- (This leaves ~1.5"-3.5" of dead air space in the typical framed wall/floor >
- Foil radiant barrier (100% sealed and taped) >
- 1-2" Rigid foam board panels applied over the studs, just like drywall (Sealed and taped) >
- Drywall
 
Look up "Spray Jones" on youtube. Ton of good information about spray foam. Spray foam is far superior to fiberglass or mineral wool insulation but its not cheap.

Here is a really good read about spray foam and R values.

https://www.cufca.ca/docs/R-Value Fairy Tale.pdf
Well SPF has some issues
For example if the house moves it'll crack. Sometimes it'll pull away from the framing members. These cracks provide a path for moisture to condense on the sheathing behind it.
Improper mix or application is not easily fixed. Improper curing is an expensive fix.
Insufficient depth with open cell SF can cause condensation at the roof deck which turns into roof rot. This can be really problematic in high humidity environments.
Closed cell is the absolute worst in terms of environmental impact.

Mineral wool is easier to install properly vs fiberglass.

It's easy to get good install of batts. Just demand grade 1 I'm install.
 
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