My boss has a 2000 Ford Explorer V8 with 140,000 miles on it. It's a fine SUV and it has plenty of power, but it unfortunately suffers from spongy brakes.
I changed the front pads and bled the front and rear until fresh, clear fluid came out.
Unfortunately, the pedal is still very very spongy and the truck won't even come close to locking up the pedal. To me this is a safety hazard.
I presented three scenarios to the boss, which would all involve some amount of dealer service:
1) The master cylinder may be bad. I noticed some oily buildup on the base of the master cylinder, where it meets the booster.
(I can change the master cylinder, but it connects to the ABS pump, and the pump would have to be cycled with a special tool I don't have)
2) There could be air somewhere in the lines. I bled each corner twice, so a fancy vacuum bleeder that I don't have might be needed.
3) There could be air in the ABS pump. I can't cycle it myself because I don't have the electronic tool to do so.
Anybody have any experience with this truck, or Ford trucks in general, with the same problem?
As always, thanks.
Spongy brake pedal on 2000 Ford Explorer
- Thread starter L_Sludger
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Originally Posted By: stockrex
Lube Ur sliding pin err bolt or whatever that thingy is called pls
Rear drums or 4-wheel disc?
Wipe the cylinder clean and see if the leak returns.
Take a close look at the brake hoses. I'd seriously consider replacing them if the sponginess continues.
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I did my '98 F-150 a few weeks ago.
I had to have my wife start the car in order to get all the air out of the lines. With the engine running the brake booster is working.
I bled them 2x before I decided to try it with the engine running.
You really should replace BOTH front calipers at the same time.
Bare bones work is only if they are shooting at you, and you have to get away.
I would replace both calipers on a axle if replacing 1.
Also, I had a similar problem to what you are having with my '96 FORD Windstar.
What ended up solving it was replacement of the hose that goes from the caliper to the hard line on each side in the front.
I bought the Raybestos OEM style hoses from Rockauto.
It was amazing the improvement that this cheap and easy repair made to the braking performance.
This was after new calipers, rotors, and pads.
No need for any fancy metal mesh clad hose......just the standard OEM style.
A third bleed and a replacement of the caliper bracket has restored much of the pedal firmness. The car is drivable again and the boss is satisfied. It's surprising that a bum slider would cause the pedal to be so lame.
Eventually I would like to purchase a vacuum bleeder. One-man bleeding with a $1.99 Harbor Freight hose and cheesy check valve is likely not sufficient.
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