specs on Amsoil bypass filters?

[toolboy62]

Hi all,

can someone familiar with the Amsoil bypass filter tell me about it? specifically thread size, gasket size, type of media, etc. Reason I ask is, I have an old Studebaker with a factory bypass filter (no full flow filter.) I have a choice of using either a Fram F4 type filter (have a good housing) or else a Wix 51050 spin-on (on car now.) All of the replacements I've seen for either appear to use similar media to a typical full flow filter. Does anyone make either a *good* C4 type cartridge with a depth-type media or would the Amsoil bypass filter fit on my stock Stude spin-on filter mount?

thanks,

nate

 

[Dick in Falls Church]

The AMSOIL Bypass Filter will not fit your stock Studebaker filter mount.

 

[toolboy62]

D'oh. Well it was worth a try. It looked like a decent element and I would like to run a better filter but still keep a stock looking appearance. (was thinking if it did fit I'd paint the canister red so it would look like the original S-P filter)

thanks for the reply, anyway.

nate

 

[RalphPWood]

toolboy62,

The old elements were far superior to the stuff they put on the newer cars. The Frantz Filter Company got their start making kits to convert the Fram and other canister filters to superior filtering toilet paper. With a little ingenuity you can make your own kit.
About 40 years ago I pulled the cotton out of a used Fram element and pushed a roll of TP into it. I had to make sure the oil went thru the paper instead of around it. I poked the TP core full of holes. I have an old Frantz three stacker that looks like it might have three of the old kits to convert the old housings. The old three stacker was a kick butt filter but it was messy to change. The easiest filter to service by far is the Motor Guard M-30 but it doesn't resemble stock.
My 64 Rambler came with a junk bypass filter mount bolted to the flat head. I tossed it and installed a Frantz oil cleaner. the oil went from black to golden in a few miles. In 1964 the Fram housings were still in the parts stores as well as the cotton elements. As people get more and more happy with dirty oil the good filters get harder to find. We still have the big shredded newspaper elements for the large diesel engines but the junk filters are taking over. I ordered some big Luber-Finers to convert to paper towels and TP. I got Cummins Fleetguard 750's instead. They are going to work out fine. I will put two rolls of Kleenex VIVA next to each other on the kitchen table and roll them together to make about a 7 1/2" by 11" element. Then I will roll three rolls of Scott together until I have a 7 1/2" by 4 1/2" element. I will run a bead of RTV on one end and push them together. Then I will reach inside the core and punch some holes in the core. Add a couple of holes to the bottom seal to lift out the element and it will be one heck of a filter. I will be putting a 1/16" orifice at the inlet. These housings are a do it yourselfers dream. I will install a spin on filter to the outlet to guard against any tissue migration. The 750 Wix, Fleetguard, Luber-Finer and others have have that built into the element. The screens are not necessary on the little Frantz and Motor Guards unless the element isn't changed for a very long time. The Frantz has the screen. If someone hassles me I will add a brass nipple filter to the Motor Guard. The filters are number 98355k842 www.mcmaster.com.
I do what I gotta do. An old Frantz dealer mentioned that Hastings still has some cotton filter elements. I bought one about 20 years ago. He was telling how to install a Frantz oil cleaner on a Beemer. I thought he was talking about a car. He was talking about a BMW motor Cycle. He is another old guy that thinks that filters are supposed to chean oil.

Ralph

 

[toolboy62]

I received the following after asking the question to Wix through their web site:


> The WIX replacement for this Fram application is our part number 51006. It
> contains pleated media rated at 10 micron and will do an excellent job of
> cleaning the oil coming through this bypass style system. It is the slow
> oil flow rate in a bypass style system that allows the oil to be cleaned
> very thoroughly, not the media. Although cotton waste is very efficient at
> cleaning slow flow rates, today's pleated technology offers the same type
> of protection.
>
> Thank you for your inquiry.
>
> Chris Greeson
> Senior Technical Service Manager
> <>
I'm impressed that they bothered to give such a detailed reply about an undoubtedly by now obsolete application However, is 10 micron good enough? Is he correct that that's as good as the old style media? I'm also concerned about capacity, as the engine is fairly sludgy inside and I can easily imagine the filter sludging up between oil changes. FWIW I did put on the F-4 filter for the added capacity and also because I can change it without dripping oil on my engine, which I can't do with the stock standard-duty spin on.

Let's say I did try to take an old C-4 cartridge and adapt it for TP use. Thinking about it, that sounds like something I ought to be able to handle... What kind of particle size range would I be looking at and would it offer any advantage in terms of ability to hold more dirt before choking off flow? Would it be a good idea to add a stronger spring under the filter top to try to compress the TP down more? In this application the oil would be flowing through the media outside to in, so I assume channeling wouldn't be an issue.

nate