This has been the case of every NGK plug I've installed over the last decade or more. I like it because it takes all the mystery out. The only caveat is that the recommended torque angles are for brand new plugs with the crushable washer.Don't think I've ever used a torque wrench for plugs. Just follow the guidelines for plugs with or without a seal. Usually 1/8 to 3/4 of a turn after finger tight.
Here, I fixed it for you:I've always seen x ft-lbs +/-x ft-lbs. Now I see x ft-lbs + x ft-lbs. What gives?
For example, instead of saying 20 ft-lbs +/- 2 ft-lbs it says 20 ft-lbs +3 ft-lbs.
They don't want you to use your calibrated elbow unless it's accurate to within the stated tolerance, of course.Who would set the torque wrench to a higher or a lower value anyhow? The nominal value is all that’s needed.
So how accurate is the torque wrench? Yours may tighten it to 17 ftlbs, your friends may tighten it to 22, when both are set to 20.Who would set the torque wrench to a higher or a lower value anyhow? The nominal value is all that’s needed.
This has been the case of every NGK plug I've installed over the last decade or more. I like it because it takes all the mystery out. The only caveat is that the recommended torque angles are for brand new plugs with the crushable washer.
Scott
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Sounds like a defective plug or possibly the socket wasn't squarely aligned when installing.Hand tight + 1/2 turn is how I broke a Beru spark plug and had to extract it. That was when I learned that not all spark plugs are made the same!
How would you check the final torque? Outside of high precision tools and factories, the end user has no way to verify the final torque of a fastener. Therefore a range is effectively useless.So how accurate is the torque wrench? Yours may tighten it to 17 ftlbs, your friends may tighten it to 22, when both are set to 20.
Same here. It also eliminates any correction factor due to the use of anti-seize if you choose to use that.This has been the case of every NGK plug I've installed over the last decade or more. I like it because it takes all the mystery out. The only caveat is that the recommended torque angles are for brand new plugs with the crushable washer.
Scott
View attachment 226316
How would you check the final torque? Outside of high precision tools and factories, the end user has no way to verify the final torque of a fastener. Therefore a range is effectively useless.
Think of it as 21.5 ft-lb +/- 1.5 ft-lb.I've always seen x ft-lbs +/-x ft-lbs. Now I see x ft-lbs + x ft-lbs. What gives?
For example, instead of saying 20 ft-lbs +/- 2 ft-lbs it says 20 ft-lbs +3 ft-lbs.
Is this from the spark plug manufacturer or the service manual for the car/truck/engine manufacturer?I've always seen x ft-lbs +/-x ft-lbs. Now I see x ft-lbs + x ft-lbs. What gives?
For example, instead of saying 20 ft-lbs +/- 2 ft-lbs it says 20 ft-lbs +3 ft-lbs.
That's my presumption. I have not cone across any source saying something like, "There is a new convention of expressing torque values and tolerance."Think of it as 21.5 ft-lb +/- 1.5 ft-lb.
I don't know. I think everybody is citing the same source whatever it is.Is this from the spark plug manufacturer or the service manual for the car/truck/engine manufacturer?