socket and other advice for plugs

[coopns]

95 Taurus, 160k. Original wires, Bosh plat. changed 6 years ago with about 50k or more on them. Buddy and I were having a look at he saw arching when water was near them. Picked up some Bosh Platinum's and Bosh Wires. Also picked up a distributor cap. What size socket do I need to take out the plugs? And, any other advice for chainging the plugs and wires? I am a bit nervous as I still pretty new. One wire at a time right?

Thanks.

 

[Donald]

You need to pick up a spark plug socket that will fit your plugs, bring a new plug into Sears or where ever your buying the socket. The spark plug sockets are deep and have some foam inside so as not to bust the insulator of the plug. Better yet buy one of every size of the spark plug sockets, there are only 2 or 3 sizes made for plugs. You will need them for some engine sometime.

 

[andyd]

one wire at a time, Buy some di-electric boot grease and use it on the plug tops where the boots connect on the plugs. Always Twist the boots before pulling them off.

 

[coopns]

Is there a brand name or can I get di-electric grease anywhere? Does the distributor cap just pop off? How tight should I secure the plug after changing?

 

[Kestas]

Brand name doesn't really matter, as long as the container says "silicone" grease. Syl-Glide is a well-known name.

Tightening the plugs with never-seize on the threads is a bit of an art. I do it by feel. If you absolutely need some kind of a guide, I'd recommend 10 ft-lbs.

 

[The_Jeff]

Big Lots (yes that cheezy chinese junk store) has a tune-up kit with both sizes of spark plug socket, a ratchet, and a short extention. You can buy longer extensions there too. For occasional use this kit is not too bad and only $4! The sizes are english, not metric, even if the rest of the car is metric. 5/8" and "bigger", IIRC, 13/16".

Distributor cap is probably held on with a tiny cheezy screw that you should be very careful with; they strip out easily.

Sometimes plug wire sets come with a little packet like a ketchup packet from mcdonalds of the silicone you need. A tiny dab will do you; too much and the wire boots can actually slide off.

 

[coopns]

Buddy at Autozone was helpful and walked me through putting the wires on the plugs. The wires had too much goop and wouldn't stay on the plug. Should I just keep wiping them off till it sticks?

Haven't see the high brow Big Lots yet.

Thanks.

 

[rpn453]

Definitely use a little high-temp anti-seize on the plug threads and torque them to manufacturer's recommended spec, usually around 10 ft-lb as Kestas advised.

 

[Kestas]

Coopns, you may have to somehow pinch the clips closed a little bit inside the spark plug boot. This may give them more purchase when you slip them on the spark plug.

My technique - I usually butter only the inside rubber surface of the boot with a small dab and spread it around with a nail before mounting the boot on the plug. It doesn't take a lot of silicone... some people go too happy with it.

 

[stringsattached]

An old trick that's always worked well for me is using a long piece of rubber hose (or something like it) to get the spark plugs started in the threads. Just stuff the plug into the end of the hose, and go to work.

The long piece of hose is a lot easier to work with in cramped engines, and you can't cross thread the plugs because the hose will twist first! Then just finish tightening everything up with a socket set.

I also second using anti-seize/di-electric grease. Makes everything easier to get out later.

 

[The_Jeff]

If you got real quality plug wires you can actually make an air-tight seal as you try to cram the boots on the spark plug tops. This increased pressure will pop 'em back off. Less silicone is usually the answer.