Speaking of Toyota's . Have ya'll seen the new Tundra commercials ? That is one butt ugly truck .
So we're all buying Toyotas now 🤔
- Thread starter michaelluscher
- Start date
Keep it up @michaelluscher. you are learning and sharing…
Well, one step forward two steps back
Finally got the idlers/pulleys and new Alternator in
Which was far from easy
That rear pulley bracket is a
and a half to deal with
That might explain the noise
There's a TSB for noise, solved by a a revised idler and bracket, but I had already committed $65 to a OEM unit, and I'm not equipped to press bearings in and out
Belt drive will now be much quieter
In went the new Remy alternator, and the Continental belt
The Continental branded idler, had a Litens branded bearing in it
The OE Toyota had a Japan made Koyo
I did not replace the engine mount at this time
Took it for a drive, all seemed well
Voltage a steady 14v+ at all times
Check engine light came on and it stalled
4 coil codes
Maybe some water got into the connectors?
I blew them out, all seemed well
Then it started bucking on the highway
Check engine light on again
I got off the highway, limped it along two lane roads with no shoulder
The last mile home, it stalled at red lights, I had to neutral drop it once or twice to not be stuck in the intersection
StuntMan would've been proud
It finally died in front of a Walgreens, a whole 0.2 miles from my house
It would just start, and die
Tach signal observed at all times
So I walked the 3 blocks home, I'd fetch it tomorrow
I've got AAA Premier, so they were there double quick and got me home no charge
I haven't had a project leave me walking since Project Escort circa 2013
The coil codes elude me, as it will run on all 4 cylinders briefly
I'll probably replace all 4 with quality Denso units, if I can get the rest of the engine to work right
I ordered adapters to tee in a fuel pressure gauge, but they were the wrong size
The fact that it would start, idle, then die, seems fuel related to me?
Especially considering the lean codes, hot start issues, etc
So now that it won't run at all, I wanted to see what the fuel pump could put out visually
Now my eye isn't well calibrated, but that doesn't look like 44-48 PSI to me
This is a hose clamped to the output before the rail
The pump/regulator are in tank
If this is all it can put out, is it a safe call that this fuel pump is tired?
Or should I wait until I can get new adapters and a gauge to test?
Finally got the idlers/pulleys and new Alternator in
Which was far from easy
That rear pulley bracket is a
and a half to deal with That might explain the noise
There's a TSB for noise, solved by a a revised idler and bracket, but I had already committed $65 to a OEM unit, and I'm not equipped to press bearings in and out
Belt drive will now be much quieter
In went the new Remy alternator, and the Continental belt
The Continental branded idler, had a Litens branded bearing in it
The OE Toyota had a Japan made Koyo
I did not replace the engine mount at this time
Took it for a drive, all seemed well
Voltage a steady 14v+ at all times
Check engine light came on and it stalled
4 coil codes
Maybe some water got into the connectors?
I blew them out, all seemed well
Then it started bucking on the highway
Check engine light on again
I got off the highway, limped it along two lane roads with no shoulder
The last mile home, it stalled at red lights, I had to neutral drop it once or twice to not be stuck in the intersection
StuntMan would've been proud
It finally died in front of a Walgreens, a whole 0.2 miles from my house
It would just start, and die
Tach signal observed at all times
So I walked the 3 blocks home, I'd fetch it tomorrow
I've got AAA Premier, so they were there double quick and got me home no charge
I haven't had a project leave me walking since Project Escort circa 2013
The coil codes elude me, as it will run on all 4 cylinders briefly
I'll probably replace all 4 with quality Denso units, if I can get the rest of the engine to work right
I ordered adapters to tee in a fuel pressure gauge, but they were the wrong size
The fact that it would start, idle, then die, seems fuel related to me?
Especially considering the lean codes, hot start issues, etc
So now that it won't run at all, I wanted to see what the fuel pump could put out visually
Now my eye isn't well calibrated, but that doesn't look like 44-48 PSI to me
This is a hose clamped to the output before the rail
The pump/regulator are in tank
If this is all it can put out, is it a safe call that this fuel pump is tired?
Or should I wait until I can get new adapters and a gauge to test?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Well, one step forward two steps back
Finally got the idlers/pulleys and new Alternator in
Which was far from easy
That rear pulley bracket is a
That might explain the noise
View attachment 96624
View attachment 96625
View attachment 96620
View attachment 96621
View attachment 96622
View attachment 96623
There's a TSB for noise, solved by a a revised idler and bracket, but I had already committed $65 to a OEM unit, and I'm not equipped to press bearings in and out
Belt drive will now be much quieter
In went the new Remy alternator, and the Continental belt
The Continental branded idler, had a Litens branded bearing in it
The OE Toyota had a Japan made Koyo
I did not replace the engine mount at this time
Took it for a drive, all seemed well
Voltage a steady 14v+ at all times
Check engine light came on and it stalled
4 coil codes
Maybe some water got into the connectors?
I blew them out, all seemed well
Then it started bucking on the highway
Check engine light on again
I got off the highway, limped it along two lane roads with no shoulder
The last mile home, it stalled at red lights, I had to neutral drop it once or twice to not be stuck in the intersection
StuntMan would've been proud
It finally died in front of a Walgreens, a whole 0.2 miles from my house
It would just start, and die
Tach signal observed at all times
So I walked the 3 blocks home, I'd fetch it tomorrow
I've got AAA Premier, so they were there double quick and got me home no charge
View attachment 96619
I haven't had a project leave me walking since Project Escort circa 2013
The coil codes elude me, as it will run on all 4 cylinders briefly
I'll probably replace all 4 with quality Denso units, if I can get the rest of the engine to work right
I ordered adapters to tee in a fuel pressure gauge, but they were the wrong size
The fact that it would start, idle, then die, seems fuel related to me?
Especially considering the lean codes, hot start issues, etc
So now that it won't run at all, I wanted to see what the fuel pump could put out visually
Now my eye isn't well calibrated, but that doesn't look like 44-48 PSI to me
This is a hose clamped to the output before the rail
The pump/regulator are in tank
If this is all it can put out, is it a safe call that this fuel pump is tired?
Or should I wait until I can get new adapters and a gauge to test?
There's no way all four coils have died, I'd assume that's a faulty code due to the other situation, which does seem to sound like fuel. Are you able to pull the pump and check the sock?
is this a returnless or return style fuel system?
without restricting flow how can you tell what psi ?
Think about a water faucet.. if its on halfway its 65psi on one side and 0? psi on the other.
At least its MOVING fuel. good luck chasing it down..
without restricting flow how can you tell what psi ?
Think about a water faucet.. if its on halfway its 65psi on one side and 0? psi on the other.
At least its MOVING fuel. good luck chasing it down..
Returnless
Pump and regulator are in tank
I am, of course this happens with 3/4 a tank of fuel because that's how all fuel pumps go
I'll remove it tomorrow weather permitting
Because why should anything work right
I ordered these 7.89/7.95 adapters, but the female end won't fit onto the hardline from the tank
I Amazon next day'd some different ones, let's see if AutoZone will rent me the fuel gauge kit
I'd like to be able to call yay/nay on the pump, so parts can be on the way
And while some rag on EPAS, it's a lifesaver when pushing a car around unaided, you get assist even KOEO
Last edited:
If you're trying to stuff nylon over barbed fittings it helps to warm it up.
At a minimum, dip it in boiling water, but a heat gun carefully applied works better.
Pucker factor if it's already had fuel in it for sure.
Too bad you don't have a press, naked bearings come in industry standard sizes and are just a few bucks. Use sockets as arbors, freeze the new part, put the pulley on the bar-b-q, drop it in.
At a minimum, dip it in boiling water, but a heat gun carefully applied works better.
Pucker factor if it's already had fuel in it for sure.
Too bad you don't have a press, naked bearings come in industry standard sizes and are just a few bucks. Use sockets as arbors, freeze the new part, put the pulley on the bar-b-q, drop it in.
At no point did it exceed 30psi
Spec is 44-48psi
Safe to call the pump weak at this point?
Not proud of this test setup, but it worked I suppose
Options are
1. Delphi in tank unit for $320~
2. Denso pump/pickup and WVE regulator for $200
3. Toyota dealer in tank unit for $450+
I believe option 2 presents the highest quality for the
And the sending unit is working correctly
Doesn't look too difficult to disassemble
I've never disassembled an in tank unit, is it really that hard?
The pump has a connector, and a new pickup included
Last edited:
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
View attachment 97004
At no point did it exceed 30psi
Spec is 44-48psi
Safe to call the pump weak at this point?
View attachment 97007
Not proud of this test setup, but it worked I suppose
Options are
1. Delphi in tank unit for $320~
2. Denso pump/pickup and WVE regulator for $200
3. Toyota dealer in tank unit for $450+
I believe option 2 presents the highest quality for the
And the sending unit is working correctly
View attachment 97008
Doesn't look too difficult to disassemble
I've never disassembled an in tank unit, is it really that hard?
The pump has a connector, and a new pickup included
The pump assembly typically comes as a unit, did the one on my sister's 330i a couple of years ago, they are pretty easy. Same as yours, under the back seat.
Glad to see someone's enjoying it
Denso pump and WVE regulator are being rushed to me via the RockAuto
Add me to the list of people who enjoy this! Don't let party-poopers stop you from entertaining us and motivating us to go out and do the same! There is a certain pride in reviving a vehicle to a daily driver status, when someone else gave up on it long ago, due to lack of skills/finances.
My vehicles need some TLC (hydraulic motor mounts on one, CV axles on the other, fluid changes on the rest) and I've been throwing it on the back burner for a while now. Seeing you make some serious progress on the underdog Scion xB2 (that's what we call the second gen xB in the scion enthusiast world) really shames me quite a bit and motivates me to go wrench some. Thank you.
P.S. Click here if you wish to improve the ride quality and increase street credit of your Scion xB2
My vehicles need some TLC (hydraulic motor mounts on one, CV axles on the other, fluid changes on the rest) and I've been throwing it on the back burner for a while now. Seeing you make some serious progress on the underdog Scion xB2 (that's what we call the second gen xB in the scion enthusiast world) really shames me quite a bit and motivates me to go wrench some. Thank you.
P.S. Click here if you wish to improve the ride quality and increase street credit of your Scion xB2
Last edited:
Using the pump to drain the tank
In tank unit
Mild debris
Corrosion that wipes off with the finger
I didn't realize this seems like a filter, that you can't service separately
Now I'm starting to regret not getting the whole in tank unit
Very minor debris wiped up with a blue shop towel no problem
So I'm not exactly suspecting contamination, I'm hoping the new pump and regulator will bring pressure up to spec
I'll recheck under the hood with my homemade gauge when I get it all back together
If it doesn't, I'm at a loss
This is the flow with 12v directly to the pump
That looks weak to me, just in terms of flow
The fuel was recycled to a different vehicle
It looks like all the other gasoline I've ever seen
The new Denso pump and WVE regulator should be here tomorrow, hopefully I'll have it all back together by Friday
Japan
Where the regulator sat, you can see the material and construction of the fuel filter
Unlike my Camry, you can't service it separately from the in tank unit, you'd have to buy a whole new one
Reassembled to the best of my recollection
Reinstalled with the most precision tools
Lo and behold, it starts!
Took a minute or two to clear out from before, and I wonder if the oil is fuel contaminated
Maybe I should change it and put the HPL cleaner in
It idles so much better, and starts significantly easier
I went and filled it with fresh gas, took it for a drive up and down the highway
I'm idling at the Sonic now
Peep those fuel trims
Short terms are now oscillating as they should
I'm not gonna call it fixed yet, because later Amazon is delivering the correct fuel adapters, we'll run another pressure test
And I haven't yet tested hot soak restart abilities
But I'm fairly confident this problem is mostly put to rest
Still might change that upstream AFR, still need to repair the post sensors exhaust leak
But it's drivable again, let's see where it takes me