so let me get this straight

[oilpan49]

Just making sure I understand how bypass filters keep stuff under the hood clean. Please correct me If I'm wrong about anything!

Bypass filters can either come in 2 designs. Single screw on like the trasko or the dual filter bypass setup such as the Amsoil setup.

I have read elseswheres that you never need to change the oil because the oil is constantly being cleaned by the bypass system. Under normal circumstances you change the full flow filter once a year and the bypass filter once a year as well. This is what I know, so please if anything is wrong here don't be afraid to correct me or maybe add stuff.

Now this is my thinking, Of course oil can only go so long without an oil change. So my thinking is, say you buy a new car right off the showroom floor regardless the kind of car. You drive around in it using dino oil and a decent filter to break it in. You then accumulate x amount of miles before you want to go to synthetic and bypass filter. Say you go with M1 5w30 oil and the Amsoil dual filter setup, just for say here. You would run around in that car and run the oil for 50K miles or 5 years+ and keep changing both filters once a year??? One would think if your keeping a car for 5 years or more, can the right oil with bypass if properly maintained really last that long??? Just gets me skepticle on this. Am I right on all this?? Like I said, please correct me or add stuff if need be. Tks,,,,,AR

[ April 10, 2004, 03:59 AM: Message edited by: Airborne Ranger ]

 

[thunderchild]

Hello. I am about to have my Amsoil Dual filter installed next week. From what I have been reading here I would be skeptical about a one year oil change. I am going to extend mine out to 10,000 miles and the have an oil analysis done to see how well it works. Take what the manufacturer's say with a grain of salt. They are trying to sell product so they stretch the truth just a tad.

 

[Mykro]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Airborne Ranger:
Just making sure I understand how bypass filters keep stuff under the hood clean. Please correct me If I'm wrong about anything!

Bypass filters can either come in 2 designs. Single screw on like the trasko or the dual filter bypass setup such as the Amsoil setup.

I have read elseswheres that you never need to change the oil because the oil is constantly being cleaned by the bypass system. Under normal circumstances you change the full flow filter once a year and the bypass filter once a year as well. This is what I know, so please if anything is wrong here don't be afraid to correct me or maybe add stuff.

Now this is my thinking, Of course oil can only go so long without an oil change. So my thinking is, say you buy a new car right off the showroom floor regardless the kind of car. You drive around in it using dino oil and a decent filter to break it in. You then accumulate x amount of miles before you want to go to synthetic and bypass filter. Say you go with M1 5w30 oil and the Amsoil dual filter setup, just for say here. You would run around in that car and run the oil for 50K miles or 5 years+ and keep changing both filters once a year??? One would think if your keeping a car for 5 years or more, can the right oil with bypass if properly maintained really last that long??? Just gets me skepticle on this. Am I right on all this?? Like I said, please correct me or add stuff if need be. Tks,,,,,AR

---

Here is some reading material for you

http://www.garynorth.com/y2k/detail_.cfm/5359 Good article here (old but good)

http://www.lubetrak.com/newsletter/July09HTML.html Another good article here

http://www.gulfcoastfilter.com/why.htm Great information

http://www.bypassfilter.com/ Great site! Ralph Wood is a Bypass filtration guru and expert for over 40 years! And a sponser of this website.. Read the FAQ's

 

[Steve S]

The oil should be anaylized to make sure it is still good to use. I used an Amsoil bypass in a 1988 Toyota 4 cyl Camry for a few years I seemed to work as advertised . I removed the filter after 3 years . I don't think for the mileage I drove the car made the bypass worth the expense.

 

[oilpan49]

Hey,

Thanks to everyone for the info. Mykro, thanks for the links and the detailed reading material.

I've been looking into a bypass system for my Ranger, seeing I average about 18K miles a year. Thanks again,,,,AR

 

[msparks]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Airborne Ranger:
Just making sure I understand how bypass filters keep stuff under the hood clean. Please correct me If I'm wrong about anything!

Bypass filters can either come in 2 designs. Single screw on like the trasko or the dual filter bypass setup such as the Amsoil setup.
Tks,,,,,AR

---

Actually you shoulnd't think of the designs in that way. All of the by-pass filters are designed a little differently.

I would say the biggest differences in filters are the TP style filter that ralf sell and the others that use 'other' types of media. But the thing is what you want to look at is the flow of the oil through the filter.

The TP filters flow the oil length wise through the media, (axial flow) and the Amsoil, oilguard, NTZ, and so forth flow the oil from the outside of the filter housing to the center and back into the engine. This is Radial flow(flow along the radius of the filter media)

Why is this important? Becuase the radial flow will have a larger surface area for filtering, which will increase the capacity for holding contaminants at least 3 fold if not more.

While I do agree that the TP filters might make the oil slightly cleaner since you have at least 4 inches of media to flow through and the oils will be slightly less, probably to to 3 inches, with the TP filters you will easily restrict the flow of the oil therefore the overall cleaning of the oil will be reduced.

In my opinion, all by-pass filters work! The degree to which they clean oil is like splitting hairs( actually much smaller than splitting hairs, since a hair is about 60-100 microns) and the diffence in cleaning ability for all of the by-pass filters is less than 1 micron.

So you have to look at the elements not they type of filter(dual remote, drop in, spin on, or whatever) you should look at the type of filtering element, and how effective overall this element is.

 

[keith]

quote:

---

Originally posted by msparks:
The TP filters flow the oil length wise through the media, (axial flow) and the Amsoil, oilguard, NTZ, and so forth flow the oil from the outside of the filter housing to the center and back into the engine. This is Radial flow(flow along the radius of the filter media)

---

If the axial and radial flow filters have the same volume of filter material, I believe they will have both the same capacity for holding dirt. The dirt will end up in the paper, and both have the same paper volume and will hold the same dirt volume. This would NOT be true if the filters get "plugged" at the surface and the deeper parts of the filter media only see clean oil. Probably the radial will hold a little more dirt because of this effect, but nowhere near 3 times more dirt than an axial. Good subject for some real world experiments!

The radial flow filter will have a lower pressure drop, because of the increased surface area (only considering the surfaces where oil enters and leaves the filter). The axial filter, with its longer path for the oil, will trap more dirt in a single pass of the oil through the filter. But the axial could flow more oil because of its higher surfarce area, perhaps trapping the dirt sooner?

As you say, both filters work well and I don't think it matters which style you use from the perspective of filtering efficiency. The pros and cons are arguable, and I haven't seen any data one way or the other.

Keith.

 

[RalphPWood]

The Frantz filters from one end of the element to the other. The Motor Guard filters from one end to the other plus from the sides. On the Motor Guard the oil pressure tightens the seal at the core and breaks the seal at the outer edge. It tightens the seal at the clean end of the paper. I have used the Frantz for 41 years and the Motor Guard for 38 years. For lube oil they both filter equally well. The Motor Guard has an advantage in extreme conditions because the bigger surface area could hold more large abrasives. It makes no difference with our modern engines. In a modern engine you are dealing with mostly abrasives that cant surface plug the element. They are able to disappear into the element. A human hair is very small but an abrasive of the same size will make a scratch on a polished surface. A few million scratches and you need an overhaul. All of the tp filters can filter down to one tenth of one micron and smaller. The Motor Guard is by far the easiest and least messy to service of the tp filters but they all clean oil. The Motor Guard has the advantage for one pass filtration such as fuel because the element is compressed and sealed at both ends. Fuel pressure wont compress the element. If you are dealing with an old dirty fuel tank with a lot of algae you can surface plug tp in a minute. The Motor Guard can polish the fuel for 200,000 on my Toyota if I dont get a bad tank of fuel.

Ralph