snowblower paint

[Donald]

I am looking to paint parts of my snowblower to keep it in decent shape.

I am not talking the blades or auger but the housing around the blades, both inside by the blades and outside.

Today I gave the rusted areas a quick coat of Loctite Extend since the temp of the metal was 53F, above the 50F minimum.

Is the inside housing just a lost cause because of the snow? Maybe prime it in the spring and let the snow and stuff scrape it up in the winter.

Maybe some super tough epoxy paint would be best inside the housing.

 

[Phishin]

Depending on what color you want, I've had GREAT results using POR-15 as a base coat. Follow directions on can. It's super hard and VERY durable paint. Available at Napa. If the color of available POR-15 tints isn't what I want, I then brush on several thin coats of oil based enamel.

This method will produce a bullet-proof finish.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: Phishin
Depending on what color you want, I've had GREAT results using POR-15 as a base coat. Follow directions on can. It's super hard and VERY durable paint. Available at Napa. If the color of available POR-15 tints isn't what I want, I then brush on several thin coats of oil based enamel.

This method will produce a bullet-proof finish.


I have some actually. Loctite Extend is more of a 1 step prep and protect where with POR-15 you should prep it first with naval jelly (or similar) then POR-15.

As you mention the POR-15 produces a very hard surface. It might be too hard for the abuse the blades will give the housing with all the non-snow things I will pick up on a dirt drive. Epoxy is tough and more flexible than POR-15.

 

[earlyre]

Truck bed liner.

 

[dave123]

2k polyurethane would be my first choice if it is to be done crrectly.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: dave123
2k polyurethane would be my first choice if it is to be done crrectly.


Is this a spray, can of paint?

 

[dave123]

Originally Posted By: Donald

2k polyurethane would be my first choice if it is to be done crrectly.


Is this a spray, can of paint?[/quote

No for most it would have to be done with a spray gun.

 

[strat81]

Have you considered disassembling the unit and having the parts powder coated?

For epoxy-based paint in a rattle can, I usually use Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II.

Or, get some Rustoleum at the hardware store and touch it up every year.

 

[Dean85]

I have done a few of these and use a rust converter that chemically turns the rusty areas into a primed paintable surface. I then use an automotive primer and finish with a good enamal spray paint. Has worked well for me.

 

[Donald]

Has anyone tried Zero-Rust? Seems like it better than epoxy or urethane.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: strat81
Have you considered disassembling the unit and having the parts powder coated?

For epoxy-based paint in a rattle can, I usually use Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II.

Or, get some Rustoleum at the hardware store and touch it up every year.


I would consider powder coating, but what are snow and rocks going to do to a powder coated finish?

 

[lars11]

For the chute, blower housing and propeller, I recommend "slippery" paint like Hammerite to reduce clogging and improve throwing distance.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: lars11
For the chute, blower housing and propeller, I recommend "slippery" paint like Hammerite to reduce clogging and improve throwing distance.


But over what? Some paint I apply, or rust?

 

[doitmyself]

Crunchy snow can be quite abrasive.

Seems like you have 2 alternatives. Apply some kind of super durable product or apply a lesser product every year.

Under the first type, this seems like an interesting product: http://www.plowslick.com/
Per my paint techs, strictly heed the safety warnings about inhalation.

I have tried this second product for ag use with mediocre results: http://www.slipplate.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=11 .......It "seems" to be an alkyd paint with a high percentage of graphite solids. For me, it wore off under abrasive conditions (fertilizer, lawn clippings, etc.).

 

[lars11]

Good thing with hammerite etc is that you don't need base paint, just make sure loose rust is brushed away. It's better to prioritize slippery over durable in the areas below because no paint will stand gravel etc. and most regular metal paint will stick to snow after a while. No, go with some slippery paint that does not require heavy base jobs. Or make a plastic sleeve for you chute and propeller. If you have lots of energy to put into the snow blower!
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: lars11
For the chute, blower housing and propeller, I recommend "slippery" paint like Hammerite to reduce clogging and improve throwing distance.


But over what? Some paint I apply, or rust?

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Crunchy snow can be quite abrasive.

Seems like you have 2 alternatives. Apply some kind of super durable product or apply a lesser product every year.

Under the first type, this seems like an interesting product: http://www.plowslick.com/
Per my paint techs, strictly heed the safety warnings about inhalation.

I have tried this second product for ag use with mediocre results: http://www.slipplate.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=11 .......It "seems" to be an alkyd paint with a high percentage of graphite solids. For me, it wore off under abrasive conditions (fertilizer, lawn clippings, etc.).


I looked at the "plowstick" and it sounds interesting, but I wish they sold it in 8 oz containers. If I did snow plowing for a business then I might consider trying some. Too expensive for a snow blower.

 

[strat81]

Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: strat81
Have you considered disassembling the unit and having the parts powder coated?

For epoxy-based paint in a rattle can, I usually use Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II.

Or, get some Rustoleum at the hardware store and touch it up every year.


I would consider powder coating, but what are snow and rocks going to do to a powder coated finish?


Beat it up, of course. But, powder coating is usually more durable than paint. For perspective, out here, much of the ag machinery is powder coated. Harvesting grain can be an abrasive process, and the powder coat holds up well.