Small 2 channel audio amplifier connection

Yes I did. I used a DMM, the resistance was in RMS. I don’t believe i gained anything significant by this alone.
This statement doesn't make sense. Resistance is a DC measurement, RMS is AC. You would simply put the DMM in the lowest ohm setting and read the resistance. If the resistance reads higher than the lowest ohm setting will measure, you have a 70/100 system and you need a PA amp. If the resistance reads lower than 4 ohms you will eventually damage the amplifier.
 
The previous amp was placed in a "bridged" output state. The manual for the previous amp was very underwhelming and didn't provide if bridging was capable. The previous amp was also rated to a minimum of 4 ohms. When bridging an amplifier, the resistance or load the output section sees is halved. So if the speaker(s) were presenting a 4 ohm resistive load to the amplifier running in a bridged mode, the amp would "see" a 2 ohm load. That is below its rated capabilities & it would run hot & eventually fail.
 
Measurement started at 34, then settled at 33.8.
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Measurement started at 34, then settled at 33.8.
View attachment 342823
Ok. 34ohms of resistance is quite high. I can also see why the previous amp was damaged being bridged into a 34 ohm load.

Being bridged will cut the impedance the amp sees in half. So it’ll effectively see a 17 ohm load. Your previous amp was rated to produce 8w x 2ch at 8ohms. So 16w total at 8 ohms. Half of that at 16 ohms. With a total summed output of only 8w divided by however many speakers you have Wired into your business area, it’ll be pretty easy to clip the signal. Normally a clipped signal will damage speakers before an amplifier but continuous clipping can also damage output stage of the amplifier.

You might want to take a look at how your speakers are wired. Are they individual 4, 8, 16 ohm speakers wired in series, parallel or series-parallel configuration.

It’s best to know what you have so you can properly match equipment for the best performance & reliability.
 
Ok. 34ohms of resistance is quite high. I can also see why the previous amp was damaged being bridged into a 34 ohm load.

Being bridged will cut the impedance the amp sees in half. So it’ll effectively see a 17 ohm load. Your previous amp was rated to produce 8w x 2ch at 8ohms. So 16w total at 8 ohms. Half of that at 16 ohms. With a total summed output of only 8w divided by however many speakers you have Wired into your business area, it’ll be pretty easy to clip the signal. Normally a clipped signal will damage speakers before an amplifier but continuous clipping can also damage output stage of the amplifier.

You might want to take a look at how your speakers are wired. Are they individual 4, 8, 16 ohm speakers wired in series, parallel or series-parallel configuration.

It’s best to know what you have so you can properly match equipment for the best performance & reliability.
The Pyle PFA300 is apparently rated at 90W but they don't say at what impedance, they just give a range of 2-8 ohms. If we assume it's 90W @ 2ohms, that's 45W at 4ohms and 22.5W at 8ohms, a bit more than 16W, but not much, lol. Based on those numbers, he'd have 11.25W to play with, which I agree, it's pretty easy to clip the signal with and given that this is a pretty low rent piece of equipment, that doesn't bode well for longevity, though for $50, it's also possible that it just hit its anticipated lifespan.

Amp is also listed as "Class T", which is just a switched Class D amp, I assume a Tripath knock-off. Would be interesting to see inside it now that the OP has taken it out of service, I'm guessing it's pretty bare bones inside.
 
The Pyle PFA300 is apparently rated at 90W but they don't say at what impedance, they just give a range of 2-8 ohms. If we assume it's 90W @ 2ohms, that's 45W at 4ohms and 22.5W at 8ohms, a bit more than 16W, but not much, lol. Based on those numbers, he'd have 11.25W to play with, which I agree, it's pretty easy to clip the signal with and given that this is a pretty low rent piece of equipment, that doesn't bode well for longevity, though for $50, it's also possible that it just hit its anticipated lifespan.

Amp is also listed as "Class T", which is just a switched Class D amp, I assume a Tripath knock-off. Would be interesting to see inside it now that the OP has taken it out of service, I'm guessing it's pretty bare bones inside.
I had searched that amp & had found an old manual that stated 9w rms x 2 @ 10% THD. That's what I based my response off of. When going to the Pyle website there's only the single page generic manual with ratings as you state:

1781587000730.webp


I'll browse around to see if I can remember where I dug up that old pdf manual. But yes, it's as you say for equipment on the reliability/price point scale.
 
The Pyle PFA300 is apparently rated at 90W but they don't say at what impedance, they just give a range of 2-8 ohms. If we assume it's 90W @ 2ohms, that's 45W at 4ohms and 22.5W at 8ohms, a bit more than 16W, but not much, lol. Based on those numbers, he'd have 11.25W to play with, which I agree, it's pretty easy to clip the signal with and given that this is a pretty low rent piece of equipment, that doesn't bode well for longevity, though for $50, it's also possible that it just hit its anticipated lifespan.

Amp is also listed as "Class T", which is just a switched Class D amp, I assume a Tripath knock-off. Would be interesting to see inside it now that the OP has taken it out of service, I'm guessing it's pretty bare bones inside.
So it was the replacement amp that I had found to have the really low rating (in an incomprehensible fashion).

Here's the manual of the replacement:
https://pyleaudio.com/Manuals/PDA29BU.pdf

Power Rating:
1781589511958.webp
 
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