SM/GF4 Mobil 1 questions

[unDummy]

Pour point temperature is an irrelevant argument.

An oil can pour but may not allow an engine to turn over. Think "marshmallow fluff" lubricating the engine--oil glue!

An oil can pour but move too slowly.
Think about an 'oil pump' pumping lots of air waiting for oil to move to the pump pickup. Air doesn't lube an engine all that well.

If it is so cold out that you are worrying about whether you should use a 0w, 5w or 10w oil, then it is probably too cold for the oil to warm up to a point where high temp shearing is an issue.

I don't care for formula created charts. It assumes that every oil responds in a perfect way.

Use a little common sense and listen to your engine. My car starts quieter/quicker with a 0w oil over a 10w oil even when its +20f outside.

Also, used oil analysis have shown that certain oils fall out of grade. But, noone is testing for that "w" number on the bottle. How many miles does it take for a 0w, 5w, or 10w oil to fail the cold temp tests? Which one do you think will hold the "w" grade longer, a synthetic or mineral?

I'll stick with a synthetic 5w or 0w oil during the winter.

 

[oilyriser]

You can pay a lab to do a low-temp test on your used oil, if you like.

If anyone wants to see a used oil analysis of Redline 5w20 that includes a low-temp viscosity test, send me money, and I'll ask the lab to do it. I have to ask how much it would cost, and what tests they are able to do.

 

[Alexander Bananahammock]

I use Maxlife 10w30 with 1 qt of 10w40 in my 1991 DeVille. I have not had any problem with the engine not wanting to start in 0 degree weather lately. I would never put 5w30 in this engine because it starts getting a main bearing thump that the 4.9 is so famous for. With the 4.5 qt of 10w30 and 1 qt of 10w40 the engine never thumps. 5w30 is just too thin in this engine.

 

[heyjay]

quote:

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Originally posted by unDummy:
Pour point temperature is an irrelevant argument.

An oil can pour but may not allow an engine to turn over. Think "marshmallow fluff" lubricating the engine--oil glue!

An oil can pour but move too slowly.
Think about an 'oil pump' pumping lots of air waiting for oil to move to the pump pickup. Air doesn't lube an engine all that well.

If it is so cold out that you are worrying about whether you should use a 0w, 5w or 10w oil, then it is probably too cold for the oil to warm up to a point where high temp shearing is an issue.

I don't care for formula created charts. It assumes that every oil responds in a perfect way.

Use a little common sense and listen to your engine. My car starts quieter/quicker with a 0w oil over a 10w oil even when its +20f outside.

Also, used oil analysis have shown that certain oils fall out of grade. But, noone is testing for that "w" number on the bottle. How many miles does it take for a 0w, 5w, or 10w oil to fail the cold temp tests? Which one do you think will hold the "w" grade longer, a synthetic or mineral?

I'll stick with a synthetic 5w or 0w oil during the winter.

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Ditto. Many good points raised here.

 

[DSteven]

I have taken note with the oil pressure guages in my mom's 95 Explorer and a previous 95 Avenger 2.0 my sister had. Just while starting the engines with Mobil 1 5w30 the oil pressure rises nearly all the way to normal and is nearly all the way up when the engine first fires. With the Mobil 1 10w30, the pressure slowly increases, but is still trying to gain pressure after the engine has fired. This is a good example, and now maybe I shall use Mobil 1 0w30 in the cold and Mobil 1 5w30 for the warm & hot temps! The last Stratus started incredibly well with Mobil 1 0W-30.