It does seem to be rather unusual. I'd have panicked as well. I would have had to touch it first though.
Sludged engine
- Thread starter ShiningArcanine
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Here are a couple of minimal quality 5w30 oils you could try using for extended drains in your sludger engine after the ARX:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/hdd.aspx
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_int.../0-999/1854.pdf
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/hdd.aspx
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_int.../0-999/1854.pdf
Well, my thumb (as described above) is big, but it's not one full inch wide. Perhaps there are subtle differences in the installations, or perhaps the M1-209 is slightly larger than some other filters. Either way, it's a small difference. In the area in the red circle, between the cat and the filter, my thumb was in contact with both.
At any rate, the lack of any signs of overheat on the thin paper is encouraging. I'd have left it on longer myself, though, and really tested it a while.
FOLKS!
He does not have a sludged motor.
His car is not on the Sludge Toyota motor list.
His car is a 1995. The "sludge" motors started being built in 96 for 1997-up model years.
The warrenty that Toyota has will not work on his 12 year old car. Its only for 8 years.
I don't know if going 8k to 10k with PP is a good idea. You can see someone made it to 194k with 4-5k using halvoline or such. Sometimes going longer ocis is the best thing.
If you are interested in longer oci, get with Pablo he will get you on the right track and is a straight shooter. Others here have whatever they are selling as the best and only idea.
Bill
I'll second against going that far with Pennzoil Platinum without a used oil analysis. Since yours isn't a sludge monster, it wouldn't be because of it turning to goo, it would be a matter of whether the oil can go that long.
You may want to check out the Amsoil XL line, you should easily be able to get 7500 miles if not longer with a used oil analysis for verification.
You may want to check out the Amsoil XL line, you should easily be able to get 7500 miles if not longer with a used oil analysis for verification.
Okay, I guess that after the Auto-RX treatment is done, I will first try a 5,000 mile motor oil change interval with the Pennzoil Platinum and then have an oil analysis done to figure out how long the oil could have ran. Is this a better course of action?
By the way, the uncle who helps me with my Avalon's maintenance only likes Castrol, QuakerState and Pennzoil, so I am trying to restrict myself to those three.
By the way, the uncle who helps me with my Avalon's maintenance only likes Castrol, QuakerState and Pennzoil, so I am trying to restrict myself to those three.
give him the link to this site LOL....
I used to strictly run Castrol GTX and even their two stroke in everything i owned...
I used to strictly run Castrol GTX and even their two stroke in everything i owned...
Shining,
That would be a better choice at first, after that, you may be able to extend your intervals out.
That would be a better choice at first, after that, you may be able to extend your intervals out.
I'd concur in a 5k OCI with PP, followed with UOA. You'll accomplish several things. First, you'll get a good idea of how this particular engine, in your own unique usage, is treating its oil. From there you can either establish (or further refine) an OCI and oil choice that works for you.
Another benefit, especially with an engine of this vintage, will be to screen for lurking problems that could become fatal show stoppers if not detected and arrested early. Any number of things, e.g. abnormal wear, gasket leaks, PCV problems, etc, could fall into this category.
Finally, you'll also gain some peace of mind. You won't leave on every long trip wondering (at least not as much) whether it's about to blow up on you. And you'll probably have some fun too.
Another benefit, especially with an engine of this vintage, will be to screen for lurking problems that could become fatal show stoppers if not detected and arrested early. Any number of things, e.g. abnormal wear, gasket leaks, PCV problems, etc, could fall into this category.
Finally, you'll also gain some peace of mind. You won't leave on every long trip wondering (at least not as much) whether it's about to blow up on you. And you'll probably have some fun too.
Quote:
I'd concur in a 5k OCI with PP, followed with UOA. You'll accomplish several things. First, you'll get a good idea of how this particular engine, in your own unique usage, is treating its oil. From there you can either establish (or further refine) an OCI and oil choice that works for you.
Another benefit, especially with an engine of this vintage, will be to screen for lurking problems that could become fatal show stoppers if not detected and arrested early. Any number of things, e.g. abnormal wear, gasket leaks, PCV problems, etc, could fall into this category.
Finally, you'll also gain some peace of mind. You won't leave on every long trip wondering (at least not as much) whether it's about to blow up on you. And you'll probably have some fun too.
It is a Toyota; I never wonder if it is about to blow up on me, as they rarely do.
Anyway, I was reading about bypass filtration on Blackstone Laboratories' website. Could that improve engine oil longevity in a gasoline engine? If so, is it possible to buy bypass filtration kits for the Toyota Avalon?
Bypass filters can improve engine oil longevity in both gas and diesel engines. You can purchase Bypass filter kits from Amsoil or Oil Guard, I'm sure there are more I just can't recall any names.
If you look at the one from Amsoil, go with the single bypass kit and not the dual remote kit. There are some applications where the dual remote systems may restrict oil flow and lead to some higher wear.
Pablo may chime in, he had some good posts in the oil filter forum about why he recommends the single over the dual kits.
If you look at the one from Amsoil, go with the single bypass kit and not the dual remote kit. There are some applications where the dual remote systems may restrict oil flow and lead to some higher wear.
Pablo may chime in, he had some good posts in the oil filter forum about why he recommends the single over the dual kits.
But of course, that's why we presently own two of them. That said, I still think my comment is valid, especially w/r/t a 1MZ such as yours. Yes, Bill is correct, you predate the known "sludgemaker window," but still, you can see a deep layer of varnish around the rim of your oil filler. Even though you don't have a full-blown case of sludge, I strongly suspect this isn't the cleanest engine out there, and combined with the miles and years, you certainly can't rule out lurking mechanical problems just by saying, "it's a Toyota." No, you shouldn't drive around obsessing about whether or not it will go on you, but still, the UOA will tell you with much greater certainty that all is good (or not). UOA will also give you a good idea of how much benefit you stand to gain from trying bypass filtration, especially if you order particle counts (of the proper type...).
Well, the car is about 420 to 430 miles into its Auto-RX cleaning phase. After the rinse phase and the proceeding 5,000 mile Pennzoil Platinum oil change interval, I will have an oil analysis done to figure out how long the oil could have ran, and if bypass filtration will yield a significant benefit.
On a related topic, I very rarely floor my car's accelerator, but since starting the Auto-RX cleaning phase, I have been flooring it to get onto the highway and in situations similar to that, as flooring the accelerator sends the engine's RPM level to approximately 5,500, which I expect would send Auto-RX to harder to reach areas of the engine and lead to a more thorough cleaning. Is flooring the accelerator during the cleaning phase when I get a chance to floor it a good idea or should I continue being gentle on the engine like I always have been?
On a related topic, I very rarely floor my car's accelerator, but since starting the Auto-RX cleaning phase, I have been flooring it to get onto the highway and in situations similar to that, as flooring the accelerator sends the engine's RPM level to approximately 5,500, which I expect would send Auto-RX to harder to reach areas of the engine and lead to a more thorough cleaning. Is flooring the accelerator during the cleaning phase when I get a chance to floor it a good idea or should I continue being gentle on the engine like I always have been?
if you roll the car, it will reach the valve cover better
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if you roll the car, it will reach the valve cover better
I do that when I am leaving my street (my street is on a hill and is a deadend street). I also idle it at red lights and before I leave in the morning. Do those activities cause the Auto-RX to clean the valve cover well?
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