I think how much you are willing to spend is directly proportional to how much you are going to use it.I am in the market for a double-face sledge hammer in the 12-16 lb range. ~3 ft handle. COO isn't important.
https://wiltontools.com/12-lb-head-36-b-a-s-hr-sledge-hammer-30hrc
Are Wilton's worth the investment?
more like 8 lbs . I had a 16 pounder but cut the handle down to about a foot, used it for working on heavy equipment.What’s the ideal size? I’m thinking 12lb plus weight of the handle should be suffice for most situations. Wilton does have a 20lb but that seems a bit overkill.
I was too afraid to hit my stuck wheels with the sledge, how does one do it without destroying the rim? I looked around my shed for something else and grabbed the 12"x12" hand tamper...It seems almost designed to pop stuck wheels off, it gets almost zero rebound when hitting the sidewall and seems to transfer all the energy. It must be 10-12lbsFor the sake of variety, it sounds like have multiple weights (e.g. 6, 8, 12) in different handle lengths would be ideal?
Both automotive and general house-related applications. A TC43BPF is my largest hammer. I will occasionally find a stuck tire or hub that requires something heavier duty. Based on the posts so far, it sounds like having multiple sizes and lengths would be the ideal situation? I'm thinking a 12" long 6lb, 18" long 8lb and perhaps a 36" long 12lb?
I think if you knew what you were doing (I don't) and had a big enough torch (I also don't), flame straightening might be the way to go there. I've never tried on something like that but Tom Lipton talks about it a bit in Metalworking Sink or Swim (fun book)I guess my old 1200lb HD steel box blade has a bit of a wave in the rear of the box, and a huge sledge might have a chance at straightening it, but straightening 1/2" and 3/4" steel plates isn't too common a task...
Always on the lookout for a good book recommendation. Just bought it on Amazon. Metalworking is not something I am good at, and I have only a tiny bit of experience. Time for me to learn!I think if you knew what you were doing (I don't) and had a big enough torch (I also don't), flame straightening might be the way to go there. I've never tried on something like that but Tom Lipton talks about it a bit in Metalworking Sink or Swim (fun book)
I've adjusted runout on driveshafts with a flame and water to cool and shrink it.
And yeah, I've personally had no luck with a sledge for stuck wheels (unless I wanted rim damage). A big pry bar has been successful for me.
I think if you knew what you were doing (I don't) and had a big enough torch (I also don't), flame straightening might be the way to go there. I've never tried on something like that but Tom Lipton talks about it a bit in Metalworking Sink or Swim (fun book)
I've adjusted runout on driveshafts with a flame and water to cool and shrink it.
And yeah, I've personally had no luck with a sledge for stuck wheels (unless I wanted rim damage). A big pry bar has been successful for me.
That probably would work!best way to get a stuck wheel loose if the hammer wont work is to loosen all the lugnuts and put them back on slightly less than finger tight, then go drive around a bit, slam on the brakes and make a few hard stops while turning...
it does.. speaking as a former bus mechanic who changed alot of tires, there were times I had to resort to that method as nothing else would work. This method also works for recalcitrant suspension parts that wont budge, just you might have to loosen other fastenersThat probably would work!
This is what I have too. Many options listed here on their website.I have a council tools us-made one. 10# I think, wasn’t terribly expensive.