Single axle trailer loading weight distribution

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I tow a small 10x5-ish utility trailer with my '07 Pacifica a few times a year, a "real" trailer (not some harbor freight junk) w/ 15" wheels that I borrow from a friend. Obviously nothing super heavy, but I'm sure there's been a few loads that approached 2-3K w/ trailer, no issues.

The vehicle has a 350# tongue capacity, so I've always been steadfast about centering weight above and perhaps slightly to the front of the axle. I can usually tell if it's too front heavy when I lower the jack-- before it's even placed onto the car and I'll shift weight if necessary.

I have a light-ish load this time (approx 1K pounds), I loaded it with trailer already attached making an educated guess as to where to center weight. Rain ruined my plans so I couldn't haul it that day and had to disconnect it from the vehicle. Took a light finger pull to lift it off the hitch; trailer basically balances itself, so there's very little weight bearing on the hitch.

Is it necessary to move some weight forward? It's about a 35 mile drive to my destination, mostly highway.
 
I tow a small 10x5-ish utility trailer with my '07 Pacifica a few times a year, a "real" trailer (not some harbor freight junk) w/ 15" wheels that I borrow from a friend. Obviously nothing super heavy, but I'm sure there's been a few loads that approached 2-3K w/ trailer, no issues.

The vehicle has a 350# tongue capacity, so I've always been steadfast about centering weight above and perhaps slightly to the front of the axle. I can usually tell if it's too front heavy when I lower the jack-- before it's even placed onto the car and I'll shift weight if necessary.

I have a light-ish load this time (approx 1K pounds), I loaded it with trailer already attached making an educated guess as to where to center weight. Rain ruined my plans so I couldn't haul it that day and had to disconnect it from the vehicle. Took a light finger pull to lift it off the hitch; trailer basically balances itself, so there's very little weight bearing on the hitch.

Is it necessary to move some weight forward? It's about a 35 mile drive to my destination, mostly highway.


Technically yes. It will make for a better/safer tow. Even though 1k isn't that much you could run into a not-so-fun sway problem with no tongue weight on the tow vehicle.

If you were going a mile I would say don't worry about it, but 35 miles and highways, yea you want the weight situated better on there.
 
If you are carrying anything heavy, make sure to load the trailer correctly and not to rear-load it. Smaller trailers tend not to have brakes, so if you have to brake suddenly, the trailer could sway. It's important to make sure your trailer is properly balanced.
 
I tow a small 10x5-ish utility trailer with my '07 Pacifica a few times a year, a "real" trailer (not some harbor freight junk) w/ 15" wheels that I borrow from a friend. Obviously nothing super heavy, but I'm sure there's been a few loads that approached 2-3K w/ trailer, no issues.

The vehicle has a 350# tongue capacity, so I've always been steadfast about centering weight above and perhaps slightly to the front of the axle. I can usually tell if it's too front heavy when I lower the jack-- before it's even placed onto the car and I'll shift weight if necessary.

I have a light-ish load this time (approx 1K pounds), I loaded it with trailer already attached making an educated guess as to where to center weight. Rain ruined my plans so I couldn't haul it that day and had to disconnect it from the vehicle. Took a light finger pull to lift it off the hitch; trailer basically balances itself, so there's very little weight bearing on the hitch.

Is it necessary to move some weight forward? It's about a 35 mile drive to my destination, mostly highway.
Oh yeah. For this combo, the tongue weight should be about 150 lbs. You want about 10% of the total weight on the tongue for stability. Zero weight? Not good.

“Finger” light - will be really unstable. A good friend of mine, now a NASA Astronaut, made this mistake with a trailer when moving from Corpus Christi to Meridian, MS - nearly crashed the car a couple of times.

Had to drive below 40 MPH, on the freeway, to keep it from swaying.

He had “balanced” the trailer to minimize the load on his brand new 1987 Olds Cutlass.

Huge mistake.
 
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Agree.

Additionally while not currently a factor trailer probably has a 3500lb axle. subtracting the trailer weight the actual load capacity is likely less than 2500 LBS. GVWR for this sort of trailer is commonly 2990lbs but you should check the specific trailer before another heavy load.
 
If you are carrying anything heavy, make sure to load the trailer correctly and not to rear-load it. Smaller trailers tend not to have brakes, so if you have to brake suddenly, the trailer could sway. It's important to make sure your trailer is properly balanced.
Agree.

Additionally while not currently a factor trailer probably has a 3500lb axle. subtracting the trailer weight the actual load capacity is likely less than 2500 LBS. GVWR for this sort of trailer is commonly 2990lbs but you should check the specific trailer before another heavy load.
Assuming the trailer does not have brakes, you also need to check what the limits are for unbraked trailers in each state you use it in. In SC, for example, it is 2070# GVWR.
 
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I’ve had them loaded a couple times too light on the tongue and it was ok around town at 35 but 45+ was where it started to show. I’d rather put the weight forward - especially if it’s a long drive. Having pulled travel trailers, having a good weight distribution and hitch setup makes a huge difference.
 
Agree.

Additionally while not currently a factor trailer probably has a 3500lb axle. subtracting the trailer weight the actual load capacity is likely less than 2500 LBS. GVWR for this sort of trailer is commonly 2990lbs but you should check the specific trailer before another heavy load.
Good point but for what I've always used this trailer for, I'm weighed in and weighed out, so an easy math problem using published vehicle curb weight (about 4500lbs, add some for driver/safety margin) against empty & loaded trailer. When I mentioned prior loads upward of 3K, that's the combined load w/ trailer. No nameplate on the trailer, but having used plenty of trailers of the type, I think you're spot on w/ it having a 3500# axle.

Appreciate all the info. I'll shift what weight I can without disassembling the whole load which is nicely strapped down. If necessary I'll add some "ballast" to the front that will come back with me.
 
Assuming the trailer does not have brakes, you also need to check what the limits are for unbraked trailers in each state you use it in. In SC, for example, it is 2070# GVWR.
I was curious, after a quick search it seems KY requires trailer brakes >3000# gross trailer weight, no brake requirement for passenger car / lightweight trailers other than the combined vehicle is required to stop within a certain distance.
 
Heavy on tongue is the safer side of trailer loading.
Most single axle trailers have a 3500 lb axle, hence most having a 2k lb. load limit depending on trailer style / construction.
I have 5 single axle trailers in my stable of every style. Only one with brakes is the boat trailer that has surge brakes and a registered 3500 lb. GVWR
 
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