I changed the oil on my Lexus a few weeks ago, using a 90915-YZZB5 filter, after reading here how cheap this filter is, and the official replacement for the 20004 for the V8 is 90915-YZZD3, should i keep it until next oil change, or get a Wix 51348 for now?
should i take off my 90915-YZZB5, or keep it?
- Thread starter nthach
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Check to see if the 90915-YZZD1 fits your application. I'm surmissing that the D1 and D3 are from the same manufacturing "family". My D1 has "Made in Thailand" on it along with the Denso logo. The B5 only has "Made in USA" and no Denso logo. If you can still get ahold of some 20004s, do so, it looks to be a MUCH better built filter than the B5. If not, then the "D" series should be scads better than the B5 if its anything like the D1 I have. My $.02
My B5 is made in Japan.
http://www.lexus-parts.com/partdetail.asp?PartID=615&ModelID=60&SubCategoryID=41 for the D3, the official Lexus replacement, i got the B5 at the Toyota dealer. I think i'm just going to get a Napa Gold and use it for now, since the YZZB5's bypass is scaring me, and i had good experience with Wix as well...
http://www.lexus-parts.com/partdetail.asp?PartID=615&ModelID=60&SubCategoryID=41 for the D3, the official Lexus replacement, i got the B5 at the Toyota dealer. I think i'm just going to get a Napa Gold and use it for now, since the YZZB5's bypass is scaring me, and i had good experience with Wix as well...
My bad, yep the B5 is labeled "Made in Japan". Its the 02011 ("official" replacement for the B1) thats "Made in USA". Sorry for the confusion, all these numbers are screwin with me
. Either way, I'd stay away from the B5, it just looks so cheap. I'm going to post some pics of the D1 in a couple of days just for comparison. There are some pics floating around of the 20004 in my original thread courtesy of Toy 4X4.
Thanks for posting pics of the 90915-YZZD1 filter. I just ordered 5 for $2.99 a piece plus $6 shipping/handling for my wifes Toyota V6.
The Toyota parts guy said he is having a lot of trouble getting the "Made in Japan" filters, but the YZZD1 is made in Thailand.
Be curious to see what the innards are like.
The Toyota parts guy said he is having a lot of trouble getting the "Made in Japan" filters, but the YZZD1 is made in Thailand.
Be curious to see what the innards are like.
I was just able to get the last of a a dealer's 2004 stock for around 6 bucks a filter, so covered for awhile, but is the D3 really almost equal to the 2004?
This dealer at first said he had no 2004s, but found a few in back. He told me that the 2004s only came from the factory engines now, and he would not be getting anymore 2004s. So what is the true story?
This dealer at first said he had no 2004s, but found a few in back. He told me that the 2004s only came from the factory engines now, and he would not be getting anymore 2004s. So what is the true story?
Can you post or PM me where you found the 90915-YZZD1's for $2.99? I am interested in getting some if ShortyBs pics show that the filter is decent.
There is nothing wrong with the 90915-YZZB5 filter. Some say it does not have a bypass valve, but that is not true. It has 3 oil passages at the front of the filter, covered by a rubber lip. The rubber will deflect under pressure and open up to allow the oil to bypass the filter. I actually like this better, because the oil does not pass over a dirty filter element to get to the bypass. True, it does not seem to have as much filter area as the -20004, but I don't think it will be a problem if you change your filter at <10k mile intervals. I think even the back of the filter adds capacity that the -20004 did not. The media is a fiberglass mat type. I understand Wix is now starting to use something similar. You bought a Toyota because it is a well engineered, well made product, why would you start to doubt them now? You know how may of these filters are in use right now, without any problems? Well, I can vouch for one.
Can you post or PM me where you found the 90915-YZZD1's for $2.99? I am interested in getting some if ShortyBs pics show that the filter is decent.
Sure, I actually found them on eBay. When I emailed them, they also had the 90915-YZZD3 for something like $3.60 apiece (plus shipping). Their shipping prices are very reasonable.
Here is the link to the YZZD1 filters:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2451820084
Sure, I actually found them on eBay. When I emailed them, they also had the 90915-YZZD3 for something like $3.60 apiece (plus shipping). Their shipping prices are very reasonable.
Here is the link to the YZZD1 filters:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2451820084
Can you explain that further for me? I have the cut open B5 in my hand and can't for the life of me figure out where these passages are. The only rubber "flap" is the ADBV at the top of the filter. If you're talking about the 3 slots in the cage, they are set in a groove of the ADBV which completely covers them, and does not deflect in this area. The media is solid all the way around the plastic cage with no visible means of bypassing it. Check these pics and see if you get what I mean.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=001129#000000
I think even a company as well revered as Toyota is not beyond cutting costs where it can.
[ January 04, 2004, 08:39 PM: Message edited by: shortyb ]
nthach,
The B5 should not give you any problems to worry about.
If the D3 is the direct replacement for the 20004 it would be cool to see the insides for a comparison. I'd like to see for myself how it stacks up against the B5 and 20004. Something has to be different...I can't believe they'd go through the trouble just to only change a part #. In the mean time I'm going to see whats left on the market in the 20004s for my 3.0
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The B5 should not give you any problems to worry about.
If the D3 is the direct replacement for the 20004 it would be cool to see the insides for a comparison. I'd like to see for myself how it stacks up against the B5 and 20004. Something has to be different...I can't believe they'd go through the trouble just to only change a part #. In the mean time I'm going to see whats left on the market in the 20004s for my 3.0
Compare the open end of the cage of the -20004 with the open end of the -B5 filter. There are the 3 notches/slots in the end of the -B5. Notice the lack of these notches in the -20004. These are the oil bypass notches. They are not in the -20004 because they are not needed. The inside dia. of the ADBV rubber gasket has a lip that fits inside of the plastic cage. This lip effectively closes these notches. Under pressure, the rubber will deflect and allow oil to flow through these notches. It is an unconventional but efficient design in that it uses the ADBV gasket as both ADBV and BPV.
As far as the rust you saw, I assume it is due to the rubber curing and giving off gasses which can combine with moisture to form mild acids. The close proximity of the rubber with the metal in this area probably trapped these acids against the surface. If so it would be very minor superficial surface rust that would not affect the filter. I don't take this as a sign that Toyota went cheap--I also don't think it is that uncommon.
As far as the rust you saw, I assume it is due to the rubber curing and giving off gasses which can combine with moisture to form mild acids. The close proximity of the rubber with the metal in this area probably trapped these acids against the surface. If so it would be very minor superficial surface rust that would not affect the filter. I don't take this as a sign that Toyota went cheap--I also don't think it is that uncommon.
Tones- I put the ADBV on the cage and the notches are completely covered, thats been stated. These notches are ~ 3mm deep and the groove that they set in are ~1mm. That leaves ~2mm for the "flap" to deflect. This does not seem like a very effective way to create a bypass as very little if any oil will seemingly get passed. I could be wrong as I'm not privy to any engineering of this filter but IMHO this doesn't seem to work as well as a proper bypass valve. Now all this should be moot anyway since the filter will probably be changed prior to the need for a bypass to open up. But with horror stories of some Toyota sludge monsters why take a chance? Draw your own conclusions but it seems not to be a very desirable filter when there are others (Toyota included) out there that appear better made for similar $$$. Again just my $.02, but I'll be steering clear of the B5. Its not very practical for me to risk any problems on a part I have little faith in.
I've posted this before...found it on a Tundra board I believe:
"Both filters utilize a matted type of filter media instead of the traditional pleated paper type material. Overall size of the filter elements is approximately the same size. Both filters utilize an anti-drain back valve in the top of the filter. The -20004 filter has 12 raised ribs around its circumference whereas the -YZZB5 has 9 raised ribs of the same size. The -20004 has a metal/spring bypass valve in the bottom of the filter element whereas the -YZZB5 has more filter media there (maybe to compensate for the 9 vs. 12 ribs). The -YZZB5 has 3 bypass ports incorporated into the top of the filter media frame and anti-drainback valve. While I wouldn't consider this a true bypass valve, it will effectively function as one. There are three 1/8"x3/8" ports cut into the top of the filter element frame that are blocked off by the lip of the anti-drain back valve. With sufficient differential pressure across the ports, the rubber valve will yield to bypass excess pressure. While this isn't likely as precise as the -20004 spring loaded bypass valve, it apparently works just fine except possibly when there are excessive amounts of contaminants present (like on a new engine during the initial break-in period or after an engine rebuild). "
"Both filters utilize a matted type of filter media instead of the traditional pleated paper type material. Overall size of the filter elements is approximately the same size. Both filters utilize an anti-drain back valve in the top of the filter. The -20004 filter has 12 raised ribs around its circumference whereas the -YZZB5 has 9 raised ribs of the same size. The -20004 has a metal/spring bypass valve in the bottom of the filter element whereas the -YZZB5 has more filter media there (maybe to compensate for the 9 vs. 12 ribs). The -YZZB5 has 3 bypass ports incorporated into the top of the filter media frame and anti-drainback valve. While I wouldn't consider this a true bypass valve, it will effectively function as one. There are three 1/8"x3/8" ports cut into the top of the filter element frame that are blocked off by the lip of the anti-drain back valve. With sufficient differential pressure across the ports, the rubber valve will yield to bypass excess pressure. While this isn't likely as precise as the -20004 spring loaded bypass valve, it apparently works just fine except possibly when there are excessive amounts of contaminants present (like on a new engine during the initial break-in period or after an engine rebuild). "
This is good news. You would want these normally covered, ie. you would not want to be bypassing all the time. As opposed to some of the metal-on-metal BPVs, the rubber flap should keep the dirty oil from leaking through until it is needed to.
I disagree, but taking up your point, you would only need to bypass enough oil to alleviate the pressure drop that caused the bypass to open in the first place. Then the bypass will close. There are several different types of bypass valves, so I am not sure what you mean by a 'proper' bypass. Hopefully you would mean one that opens when the pressure drop across the filter indicates not enough oil flow. This one would seem to work that way.
Are you driving a sludge-prone engine? If so, then that puts some of your comments in a different light, and I can understand your sensitivity. For those of us who aren't driving one of the problem engines, this kind of generalization just gets people excited over nothing.
Tones-points taken. Not driving a sludgester. I guess in my usual, a-retentive, round-about way, I'm trying to say that for the same money, I'd rather use the D1 over the B5. Dang, that was MUCH simpler and took up less bandwidth too
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I think the real issue is $$$
customers don't care they see two filters with Toyota name and assume~=, and here in Houston, there is one parts house that usually has a boat load of the Jap kind and doesn't carry the other, I asked him why, he said quality... the dealer don't wanna charge an extra dollar so they get the cheaper one to compete with the aftermarket... JMO, could be wrong, although I asked when they changed long time ago, why??? they STEALER said that these were cheaper....bla bla bla
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