Should I replace the timing belt?

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My Beautiful Bride learned the hard way on my her old escort in the early 90"s she never did it and we were coming back from wisconsin one cold january night and WAHM the belt broke and it was -10F,,A long cold walk to a phone in those days ,,, she learned , I learned never ever try to chince on timing belts ,I never run them more then75K miles
49.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
no one replaces a timing belt at 49k miles.
Originally Posted By: Rand
no one replaces a timing belt at 49k miles.


Uhm mm well that's not true I just did an integra today it was a 92 and only had 29,000 on it. Those deals do happen and you got to remember the age is a factor a water pump or cam seal could have let go and they did it all at really low mileage that does happen. The belt still had the lettering usually that wears off after awhile.
 
Originally Posted By: Nitronoise
My Beautiful Bride learned the hard way on my her old escort in the early 90"s she never did it and we were coming back from wisconsin one cold january night and WAHM the belt broke and it was -10F,,A long cold walk to a phone in those days ,,, she learned , I learned never ever try to chince on timing belts, I never run them more then 75K miles
49.gif



Escort belts were know to break at 50K miles. We learned that at 51K miles when my wife's (then girlfriend) belt broke. At least it was a non-interference engine.
 
Your engine is NOT an interference engine. You only risk being stranded if it snaps. I would check it often if you leave it. If you replace it, change out the timing belt driven water pump and the tensioner. I have changed my belt on my Dodge twice at 70k mile intervals, I have found that time is the belt's worst enemy, not mileage.
 
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Interesting, an old Gates manual I have indicates that the '03 PT cruiser is interference, but the newer one I just pulled up indicates that it is not. Same for my GS300.

http://www.gates.com/~/media/files/gates/automotive/catalogs/automotive/timingbeltreplacementguide.pdf?la=en

Originally Posted By: Lubener
Your engine is NOT an interference engine. You only risk being stranded if it snaps. I would check it often if you leave it. If you replace it, change out the timing belt driven water pump and the tensioner. I have changed my belt on my Dodge twice at 70k mile intervals, I have found that time is the belt's worst enemy, not mileage.
 
Everything I've read indicates:
A. The piston can not contact the valves when the timing belt breaks.
however:
B. The exhaust and intake valves CAN contact each other when the timing belt breaks.
Therein lies the problem.
So for practical purposes, it's an interference engine.
 
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Originally Posted By: raytseng
When dealing with extremely low frequency maintenance items like timing belts, you need to think more about the whole lifecycle of your car ownership instead of eeking it out until it's due.


Are you going to do the timing belt once or twice?
Do you see yourself doing it eventually or are you going to sell or get rid of the car before needing to do it?


If you see yourself needing to do it, then you might as do it now for both piece of mind as well as getting use of timing belt2.


Think of it like a pit stop on a race in simple terms (no complex strategies). if the race is 100laps, and you need 1 pit stop. You don't use up the tires for 75laps then put on the 2nd set for only the last 25laps, you split it 50/50 even though tires#1 weren't used up.

If the first timing belt lasted 13 years, the timing belt buys you 13more years (assuming your same usage).

So, if you know for sure you need belt#2, you might as well get it in service sooner and put some use on belt#2.
As a side note:
If the timing belt#2 isn't going to last to the end, then you extend belt#1 a bit more so you can avoid belt#3. If you're getting rid of the car soon, you extend so you don't need belt #2.


All this depends on if it's convenient and if you can schedule other service at the same time to save time and money,

e.g. apply the same logic for the waterpump that's often included in timing belt jobs.
Even if it looks good, and by the book it says inspect water pump; perhaps it's super inexpensive to just have your mechanic change the water pump at the same time rather then inspect, put it all togehter, then have to take it all back apart to replace 1 year down the road.


+1 - as in if a part will last 150K and you plan on keeping the vehicle to 200K, replacing at 100K is the best option.
 
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Originally Posted By: Rand
no one replaces a timing belt at 49k miles.


Uhm mm well that's not true I just did an integra today it was a 92 and only had 29,000 on it. Those deals do happen and you got to remember the age is a factor a water pump or cam seal could have let go and they did it all at really low mileage that does happen. The belt still had the lettering usually that wears off after awhile.

Rand was referring to average mileage use. Time factor is not the usual change schedule for most vehicles.

I would change the belt.
 
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Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: raytseng
When dealing with extremely low frequency maintenance items like timing belts, you need to think more about the whole lifecycle of your car ownership instead of eeking it out until it's due.


Are you going to do the timing belt once or twice?
Do you see yourself doing it eventually or are you going to sell or get rid of the car before needing to do it?


If you see yourself needing to do it, then you might as do it now for both piece of mind as well as getting use of timing belt2.


Think of it like a pit stop on a race in simple terms (no complex strategies). if the race is 100laps, and you need 1 pit stop. You don't use up the tires for 75laps then put on the 2nd set for only the last 25laps, you split it 50/50 even though tires#1 weren't used up.

If the first timing belt lasted 13 years, the timing belt buys you 13more years (assuming your same usage).

So, if you know for sure you need belt#2, you might as well get it in service sooner and put some use on belt#2.
As a side note:
If the timing belt#2 isn't going to last to the end, then you extend belt#1 a bit more so you can avoid belt#3. If you're getting rid of the car soon, you extend so you don't need belt #2.


All this depends on if it's convenient and if you can schedule other service at the same time to save time and money,

e.g. apply the same logic for the waterpump that's often included in timing belt jobs.
Even if it looks good, and by the book it says inspect water pump; perhaps it's super inexpensive to just have your mechanic change the water pump at the same time rather then inspect, put it all togehter, then have to take it all back apart to replace 1 year down the road.


+1 - as in if a part will last 150K and you plan on keeping the vehicle to 200K, replacing at 100K is the best option.


What exactly is the benefit of changing a timing belt so early? There is no gain in performance like you would get by replacing tires early. It is simply a way to sink money into a car that might never have to be spent. in that 50K miles, lots of things can happen. If he wrecks the car at 110K, he just threw hundreds of dollars away. Same if something big goes bad, like a crank or rod bearing. Yes, it happens. I changed the timing belt in a '00 Concorde at 85K to get ahead of the weather and the POS ate a crank bearing at 91K. I'd still have that money (and time) in my pocket if I had waited to change the belt at the mfg specified interval. At least I got to watch it get towed to the scrapyard knowing it had a nearly new timing belt, tensioner pulley, water pump and fresh G-05 coolant.

Things like tires can provide a benefit with early replacement, like better wet traction or lower noise. Not only does early maintenance on items like timing belts not offer any benefit, it introduces the potential for a defective part or installation error.
 
So I'm going to do the belt would you also do the pump and tensioner ? I ask because who knows how good the quality is of the new parts? What do you think?
 
Originally Posted By: ram_man
So I'm going to do the belt would you also do the pump and tensioner ? I ask because who knows how good the quality is of the new parts? What do you think?


You're a mechanic that does timing belts. What would you recommend to your customer?
 
Originally Posted By: dishdude
Originally Posted By: ram_man
So I'm going to do the belt would you also do the pump and tensioner ? I ask because who knows how good the quality is of the new parts? What do you think?


You're a mechanic that does timing belts. What would you recommend to your customer?


Well that's a different story for a customer id do it all because I make more money and if something happens a shop can file a labor claim with the parts store to get it covered. Where as in my case there's no coverage under than parts warranties and we all know parts aren't very good any more.
 
I would absolutely do the water pump and tensioner, but I wouldn't use any cheap aftermarket parts. Go with high quality aftermarket or OEM, even if it costs twice (or 3 times) as much.
 
The obvious benefit, barring the rare catastrophic engine failure that you experienced, is that you don't get to be stranded by the side of the road with no way home and an engine that may now be toast.
An even greater benefit is not having this happen to your wife.
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Sell the whole thing before it falls apart


I hope your joking. It's actually been a great reliable car , just like every Chrysler I've ever owned.
 
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Originally Posted By: dishdude
Originally Posted By: ram_man
So I'm going to do the belt would you also do the pump and tensioner ? I ask because who knows how good the quality is of the new parts? What do you think?


You're a mechanic that does timing belts. What would you recommend to your customer?


Well that's a different story for a customer id do it all because I make more money and if something happens a shop can file a labor claim with the parts store to get it covered. Where as in my case there's no coverage under than parts warranties and we all know parts aren't very good any more.


So there ya go, change everything with OE parts, don't forget the idler pulley. If you're going to do it, do it right. And I think the OE recommended interval is 105k iirc so you have plenty of time to do it when you get a chance.
 
I ordered the parts tonight from Amazon got the entire kit for 123 dollars. It is an ac Delco kit. What I read on various sites said decent things about there timing belt sets so I hope that proves to be true.
 
Good call. Bought a new Neon in 1994 and changed the belt on it at 100k only to have the pulley on the tensioner seize at 140k. It was the first issue I had with the car but it bent every valve in the head and taught me how to pull a cylinder head! Fixed that and sold it at 185k with no other problems.
 
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