Should I Dump Maxlife Synthetic?

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keep the oil at the full line and the engine will be fine. relax and have a cup of
biggthumbcoffe.gif
 
Bryanccfshr said: ".....Will I pay a MPG penalty with this thick 30wt?......Mitsubishi Outlander.......We will be cruising 70-80 most of the miles"

Sorry, I'm not trying to single you out, instead I'd like to use your comments to hilight an issue. Anyone remember 'Bizarro' from the old Superman comics ? It seems that in this forum light oil has created a 'Bizarro ethic', where for strange reasons people are concerned about fuel economy from using a heavier oil while evidently ignoring the potentially significant fuel economy improvements that can be realized from driving slower or from driving a vehicle that gets better fuel economy. If someone is going to be driving 80mph in some sort of SUV they have no reason to be concerned about fuel economy that could be realized from oil, but here in Bizarro land I guess they do.

Excuse me while I SCREAM AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH !

...pant, pant...there, I feel a little better, where is Sam Kinneson when you need him :^)
 
quote:

Originally posted by Cutehumor:
keep the oil at the full line and the engine will be fine. relax and have a cup of
biggthumbcoffe.gif


Good point, likely no problem keeping at the full mark with an A3. An A5 might need some more serious topping up.
 
regular maxlife is group 2. Maxlife synthetic is group 3 and a good oil. Stay with it, but do not expect it to last as long as group 4 Mobil 1.
 
V"
quote:

Originally posted by 1sttruck:
Bryanccfshr said: ".....Will I pay a MPG penalty with this thick 30wt?......Mitsubishi Outlander.......We will be cruising 70-80 most of the miles"

Sorry, I'm not trying to single you out, instead I'd like to use your comments to hilight an issue. Anyone remember 'Bizarro' from the old Superman comics ? It seems that in this forum light oil has created a 'Bizarro ethic', where for strange reasons people are concerned about fuel economy from using a heavier oil while evidently ignoring the potentially significant fuel economy improvements that can be realized from driving slower or from driving a vehicle that gets better fuel economy. If someone is going to be driving 80mph in some sort of SUV they have no reason to be concerned about fuel economy that could be realized from oil, but here in Bizarro land I guess they do.

Excuse me while I SCREAM AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH !

...pant, pant...there, I feel a little better, where is Sam Kinneson when you need him :^)


Strangely this "SUV" is the most economical mileage wise that I own. IT averages 28 mpg on the highway at my normal speeds (the cruise is normally set between 70 and 80) THe same as the BMW z4. Difference being that I get to run the Outlander on regular fuel not premium and I can carry some luggage, fishing gear and gifts for family.

Not bizzar at all, it's no differnt than a Subaru Outback. Is it a SUV or a station wagon?


I know you're not singling me out, but this is the vehicle we chose specificly for trips. 80 mph on some stretches of texas interstate is also just fast enough to keep us from getting run down from line haulers. 65 mph would get us killed in many places.

28 MPG is all I am really concerned about. I could have gotten a few more out of say a Toyota Matrix, but is was not as zippy.
 
quote:

Originally posted by babydoggy:
regular maxlife is group 2. Maxlife synthetic is group 3 and a good oil. Stay with it, but do not expect it to last as long as group 4 Mobil 1.

I only plan on running oil like this for 6 months or 7500 miles whichever comes first.


This car gets everything from short trips to a couple of 300 trips a month most of the time. In reality most of the time it will be 5k per 6 months but if we dsrive it alot the car is good for 7500 by the owners manual. This oil should have plenty of margin.
 
bryan, did you get the maxlife Syn from the AZ on saratoga?

That's where I bought mine.

I'm using it in my Vic and my brother's Z-71 w/ 150k + miles.

It should be great for your use until you use it up.

Is your Outlander auto or manual?
 
For maximum fuel economy on a long trip with perhaps higher luggage load, check your owner's manual for maximum tire pressure. I'd go 2 psi over normal setting. Take a digital gage and good tire pump and check pressure every morning before taking off.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Islandvic:
bryan, did you get the maxlife Syn from the AZ on saratoga?

That's where I bought mine.

I'm using it in my Vic and my brother's Z-71 w/ 150k + miles.

It should be great for your use until you use it up.

Is your Outlander auto or manual?


I got my m1 and Maxlife sytnetic stashes on the Leapord and Saratoga stores respectively. I went back a couple of weeks ago, all gone.

The outlander is one of those selectronic automatics. Not as fun as a BMW stpetronic but it is a nice mimic. Pagan louis has alot of these 2004 outlanders with low miles(10k miles or so) for cheap. We got ours for 13,900 when it only had 6k miles on it. IT's the Easiest car we have to jump in and drive.
 
quote:

Originally posted by ex_MGB:
For maximum fuel economy on a long trip with perhaps higher luggage load, check your owner's manual for maximum tire pressure. I'd go 2 psi over normal setting. Take a digital gage and good tire pump and check pressure every morning before taking off.

Normally it runs with 29, for this tip it will have 33 psi all around.
 
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