Should I change my oil and filter early?

[Omahaug]

So the last oil change I cut open the L14610 and it was torn.

I'm currently on oil and filter that's only about 700 miles old. Normally I'd let the oil go until maintenance minder says to change and then I'd do the oil and filter at same time (about 7500 miles which is about one year for me).

But the torn filter makes me wonder if the oil is loaded with [censored] from engine damaged incurred due to it. Should I change this oil early? I feel like the filter would catch the big wear particles if the oil has any from the last interval with the torn filter but I feel like once the bypass opens it will cause more wear. Since it's pretty hot right now and this A02 / Honeywell filter is flow over filtration I think I can expect the bypass not to open that much if at all and think the earliest I should change the oil to minimize wasting this fresh oil would be before it gets cold, maybe October? I'm running Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-20.

Do you guys think I should leave it in until the next oil change next year and risk the bypass opening every morning on cold start in brutal New York cold or should I change it at October so I have the best chance of removing the increased wear metals from the oil?

Of course no matter what I'm going to save a sample this time and send it for analysis to see if the oil has any wear metals from that last interval where that POS L14610 tore.

When I compared the Fram style bypass to the L14610 it seems like the Fram is much easier to open with my bear hands. Mind you I tried to press the L14610 bypass open with the end cap that fell off the filter and it was still really hard. In comparison the Fram opens like nothing.

 

[spasm3]

With only 700 miles on the oil, why not just swap out for a new filter and leave the oil in?

 

[WobblyElvis]

Leave the car alone, there is nothing to worry about.

 

[Omahaug]

There's plenty to worry about! rofl

Changing only the filter is a decent idea. I'm so used to changing them in pairs the idea of changing only one or the other eluded me. I'll probably end up doing that.

Of course it would only be good if the filter was guaranteed to have cleaned all of the oil and trapped all of the wear metals in there. I think that's reasonable. The filter on this engine mounts to the bottom of the block right next to the oil pan with threads facing up (obviously).

Sucks that I'd lose a filter early over this but if it's contaminated it's contaminated and must go.

 

[Koz1]

If you swap the filter make sure you drain it cut it open and post a video so we can see what the filter looks like.

Saying you cut a filter open with no pics or video is just wrong.

Lets see some action.

 

[CT8]

Seems you would be happier to just change the oil and use a non Purolater filter!!! You worry way to much about a car.

 

[gathermewool]

Why do you think the engine was damaged the least bit due to the torn filter? Was the filter torn, with chunks of said filter ingested into the block or something?

If not, then I'd leave it on for the entire interval. What contamination are you talking about, anyway? Do you suppose all of the wear products made a dash for it through the tear as soon as it opened up, with wear particles screaming in elation thei freedom!?

If the engine is well-maintained, then it really shouldn't be producing a significant quantity of particulates, right? Even with a small tear, the filter is still mostly...filtering. It doesn't make sense that all of the particles caught in the previous, torn filter were washed through the tear, again, unless the tear was catastrophic.

 

[901Memphis]

Nothing to worry about carry on as usual

 

[mongo161]

Tell us, Joe....if you dislike Purolator Oil Filters so much, why are you running one at this time?

IMO......You should swap it out for a Fram high mileage oil filter and run it for the remaining OCI and then post the pictures of the used Fram High Mileage for us to see. Show us something new...like how well the Fram High Mileage Oil filter works on your vehicle for 8K miles?

I can hardly wait until you cut open the Purolator and post the pictures. Since I'm a mind reader.....I bet you will find it torn, and make sure that it is visibly torn, so you can let the world know about your adgenda.

 

[goodtimes]

I have been called cheap many times, but I would not blink to spend $5 or even $12 to swap an oil filter I was worried about. It isn't a lot of money. It may well be perfect, but unless there is a way to see inside it, no one knows tat. If I was worried, I would swap everything out actually. I am glad I caught a filter that had a off kilter ADBV, I cut it open. No more of that brand for me, ever.

 

[gathermewool]

Unless I missed something, he never said he was currently running a Purolator filter. In the last paragraph he compares his old filter to a Fram, so I'm guessing he currently has a Fram filter installed.

He also doesn't seem to be worried about the current filter's integrity, but that it needs to be changed out quickly due to catching everything left behind by the last filter, the torn Purolator. Is this right?

 

[Doog]

Wait 4300 miles

 

[Omahaug]

Some of you are hilarious.

Quote:
Seems you would be happier to just change the oil and use a non Purolater filter!!!
I'm already using a non-Purolator oil filter...
Quote:
Do you suppose all of the wear products made a dash for it through the tear as soon as it opened up, with wear particles screaming in elation thei freedom!?
Yup! About the engine being well maintained yeah I agree but every filter from this engine I've cut open had at least a few flecks of what looked like tiny sand. Probably accumulation of carbon or something, I'd imagine that could put streaks in a bearing. The failure mode isn't as bad as bits flying off into oil passages but the tearolator uses really brittle media and it flakes off, I don't know if fibers came off and went to the bearings or what. The clearances are smaller than the fibers. Probably not hard enough to scratch metal but who knows? That's ignoring the whole bypass aspect. I'm going by what Purolator says on their own website, that filters bypassing when they shouldn't (and this filter has been bypassing at worst the whole interval of over 6500 miles) will destroy bearings.
Quote:
Tell us, Joe....if you dislike Purolator Oil Filters so much, why are you running one at this time?
Can you tell me why you're not wearing glasses? Because I don't recall saying I'm running a Purolator, I'm not.
Quote:
I can hardly wait until you cut open the Purolator and post the pictures. Since I'm a mind reader.....I bet you will find it torn, and make sure that it is visibly torn, so you can let the world know about your adgenda.
Sorry Purolator shill, I already cut open the one from the last interval. I posted the pictures to prove it and as mentioned before it was torn. Do I have an anti-Purolator "adgenda"? Guilty as charged. I didn't have that "adgenda" at the time I bought a bunch of them thinking they were great buys only to end up with one torn but now I do. How much is Purolator paying you?

Anyway thanks guys, I'll probably just change the filter and run out the rest of the interval. Sucks that this A02 has to go early to make up for a POS tearolator.

 

[jmb3675]

I would not worry about it. If you had used another Purolator I would replace the filter only and top off the oil, but since you used a different filter, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[oilpsi2high]

I replaced an oil pan and still used the old oil. Changed the filter though just in case some sealant found its way in there.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: NoNameJoe

But the torn filter makes me wonder if the oil is loaded with [censored] from engine damaged incurred due to it. Should I change this oil early? I feel like the filter would catch the big wear particles if the oil has any from the last interval with the torn filter but I feel like once the bypass opens it will cause more wear. Since it's pretty hot right now and this A02 / Honeywell filter is flow over filtration I think I can expect the bypass not to open that much if at all and think the earliest I should change the oil to minimize wasting this fresh oil would be before it gets cold, maybe October? I'm running Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-20.


The new filter will catch and filter anything that might have gotten past the Tearolator. Plus, you drained the old oil out that was being ran with the Tearolator - so any contamination should have been removed with the oil draining.

On this new oil and filter run, just do your normal OCI and forget about it.

There shouldn't be any contamination left in the system if there was some.

 

[goodtimes]

I didn't read your post well. IMO you don't need to do anything, you already have filtered the new oil many times in 700 miles with the new filter. Personally I have my doubts the filter you are using now doesn't filter well, based on a graph from one source.

 

[bvance554]

I never understood why someone would post a question and then fire off smart arse comments at those who respond. I see no need to, but just change the oil and filter. You were going to anyhow. May not hurt to do another short OCI just to make sure you flush out all of those huge chunks of wear metals.

 

[crazyoildude]

Try to post the cut open filter with the tear... Personally we stopped using anything purolater we now use wix and the 4 we cut open were all in good shape. Fram ultra is another one that i am trying and will be cutting them at the 10,000-15,000 mile mark.. Once i cut them i will decide if i like them. Some reported that the bypass is very easy to open which i hope is not an issue because a filter in bypass is like having no filter..

Its a shame that purolater is so bad these days they used to be my go to oil filters!

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
Some reported that the bypass is very easy to open which i hope is not an issue because a filter in bypass is like having no filter.


Don't worry about it. If it says it opens at 12 psi, then it opens at 12 psi. When someone "reports that the bypass is very easy to open", they also have to understand what the active area is on the bypass valve. Many times on chat boards there is missing information to make any real sense out of someone's "reporting".