short trips

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BITOG Disease: When a member gets to the point they wont leave they're home for fear of putting start up wear on their vehicle, or short trip moisture intrusion in the oil
 
I suffer from Bitog Disease. I hate short trips under 5 miles,long excessive idle, discount stations with E-10/85,conventional oil, and people who start and turn off everytime they move up at the bank. Heck,I've drove the extra mile or too,just to get the motor warm for fears of short tripper damage.
 
I drive 3 miles to work 3 times a week. There are weeks when I do not other driving. I have had a stretch that I drove only 60 miles in 3 weeks. Other times, I put on 300 miles in a day (like today).
I change every 6 months (usually add 1 qt every 1500 miles), ends up being around 4500 miles. I have been using Valvoline NextGen for a few changes, using a homemade blend this time, and have some conventional HM and some blend oils I will use in the future. I use whatever filter I have (Fram made Carquest Red, Motorcraft, plan on Supertech later on).

Just keep doing what you were doing, it will be fine.
 
10 weeks of short trips aren't going to cause any special problems, 10 months would be an issue. Do the routine oc that is due and change next time due. Use same oil and filter as usual.
 
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Originally Posted By: Bluestream
BITOG Disease: When a member gets to the point they wont leave they're home for fear of putting start up wear on their vehicle, or short trip moisture intrusion in the oil

LOL that's why many of us have or had beaters.
 
I dont even like short tripping my '01 Ranger that I only paid $1000 for. I want it to last primarily because I dont like to put miles on my Cummins
 
Originally Posted By: mobilaltima
1 mile from his house, 5 days a week


Tell him to drive to work, and then rev the engine in the parking lot until it reaches "normal operating temperature" before turning it off. That will burn-off any excess moisture in the exhaust. (I had a car rust-out the exhaust in just one year of short trips, because I did not heatup the engine.)

- Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W30 or Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W30

There's no real difference. 0w30 or 0W-20 is the best choice, but Quaker or Mobil does not matter.
 
I've decided on Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W30 and a TG10060, which will be drained after the 10 weeks is up and replaced with another TG and some Pennzoil Pltra Platinum 5W30 for a 7k run.
 
Our vehicle is a short tripper. 2 miles to school to drop the kids off. Will be getting a used oil analysis soon to see how the oil is holding up.
 
Given the environmental conditions you describe and the time period you are talking about (10 weeks), even with the driving you describe, I would not change a thing from what I had been doing. Benefits from doing so would be negligible at best, if any at all. No need.
 
Last oil change was Supertech Dexos 5W30 with a Baldwin B160 filter. The engine usually has a ticking noise that sounds like the bottom end but always ran fine. It was pretty much silent with the Supertech/Baldwin combo. I changed the oil last night in it with Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W30, which seems to be a thick 5W30, and a Royal Purple 10-48 filter, and I can hear the ticking again(but its still fairly quiet. It seems to be filter related, so I'll try a Baldwin again next time but I'm sure the RP filter will do no harm. My only complaint about SOPUS oils, like many members on here, is that they dont put a foil seal under the cap. He'll most likely buy a new truck when it hits 200k, I'll buy it and try to take it to 500k + miles. I have no qualms with driving an old or high mileage truck, I actually prefer them
 
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