Septic tank baffle replace est cost? Logisitics?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 23, 2015
Messages
4,440
Location
Connecticut
Had my tank pumped today which is the 2nd time since 2006. In 2006 the concrete baffles/weir were replaced as they had somewhat disintegrated. I only have a hazy recollection of that 2006 repair. It cost $750. And from what I could see when peering into the tank today, they're not there this time either. Can't say I looked for them on the last pump so the baffles could have gone away any time in the past 11 years. 2 of us in the house and nothing but water, liquid soap and poo goes down into the septic. Investopedia spec says 5.9 yr max intervals recommended. System was built or rebuilt in 1979 and never had any other issues in our 26 years here.

The same company is still doing my work so I have to ask if 10 yrs or less was a reasonable life on those baffles? There are a couple hunks of 10-20 lb concrete slabs sitting in the bottom of the tank. They almost look like 1/2 or 1/3 cinder blocks. I can clearly see the influent line pipe and it's just a horizontal pipe with an open end, no Tee, no protection. That's not good. The effluent line does have a PVC Tee, but no concrete baffle around it. My recollection of the 2006 job was seeing a center concrete weir with crumbled concrete and rebar exposed. Yet when discussing it with the service man today, they said a single tank (no split) was the norm back in 1979....and no way was my tank ever anything but a single compartment. If there was an entire concrete center wall at one time, there's no sign of it now. I'm sort of confused. All I saw with a drop light and mirror where the 4 vertical walls of the tank and 2 exposed PVC pipes. No concrete attached to the wall otherwise.

If these guys put in concrete baffles around the 2 pipes last time around how did they anchor them properly to the wall? And if so, that still seems like a lousy design destined to failure if only due their weight and relying on anchors/adhesives. Why not a PVC "box" to act as a baffle? Or can just a PVC "Tee" be an adequate baffle? I spent hours reading on Septic infopedia so I have a decent knowledge how the tank should function. The service guy refused to even get on his knees or look in the tank (he just pumps and tries to sell me an extra $100 in digestive enzymes). So I broke out the lights and extension cords and looked in myself. Seemed to be to be several inches of sludge still left behind along the sides. The guy only used a vacuum hose and no hoe with extension and/or flushing water. I wish I read up on this yesterday. I'd have made the guy a long hoe with a hose to use. Paid $293 for today's pump out. Didn't look like the service guy made any notes or measurements for thickness of the sludge/scum layers. You'd think for $293 you'd get the guy to spend 5 minutes to do routine checks on how the tank is working....before removing all the liquid contents. Once I got the spiel about the $100 in chemicals I was stewing.

On Tuesday they'll send out another rep to look into repairs. So I want to be fully armed with info when they come. My wife swears that last time they did this work from the outside and somehow fit in 2 pre-cast concrete baffles for each opening. I wonder how they'd have gotten them down through the tiny 9" square pumping/inspection ports. I'm assuming the inlet/outlet concrete covers wouldn't be any bigger than the center one.

Any help or comments on baffling would be appreciated. Have a bad feeling $750 won't cover it this time.
 
Long term septic owner here. Have owned and lived in a few houses with them.

Any chance at having another company take a look at it? As you say, without proper baffling on the inflow and outflow sides, you will eventually have issues. The inflow baffle is basically there to keep agitation down so the waste can separate in the tank the way it needs to. The outflow baffle helps keep solids from flowing into your absorption field. Why this failed I have no idea. I know of folks who have had to repair baffles in old systems, but I haven't heard of a re-do after that.

I had my 1972 vintage 1000g system pumped last year. It cost me about $250 and the guy scraped what he could get at and probably ran 100gal + of my garden hose water to help get most of the loveliness out. You have to keep some scum in there for the beneficial bacteria that's needed to run the system.

Do you have more than one access port in your tank? If so, it's typically more than a single chambered tank. Yours is newer than mine. Very strange that you have the concrete degradation you describe.
 
Last edited:
How big's the tank? Concrete shouldn't break down...else you would no longer have a tank. Further, the concrete 'slabs' would also be gone. Very odd to read you found those.

My now 36yr old fiberglass 1000 ga. tank only has a single chamber, with a PVC "Tee" on each end. The output end now has a filter, in a long, cylindrical shape I installed several years ago now.

Dude should have supplied his own hose & nozzle, thoroughly hosed down the sides + bottom of the tank, then vac'd it up.
 
I agree that you should find other experts that are familiar with the codes in your area. I manage 2 single chamber septic tanks and the baffles are simply pvc T's as shown in the picture below:
septic-tank-single-comp.jpg


Consider a filter on the outlet T. Lots of Google hits and also YouTube vids.

https://www.google.com/search?q=concrete...45&dpr=1.09
 
^ This is true. You can make up your own baffle system for the in/out with PVC pipe if you're feeling so inclined.
 
Last edited:
Thanks. Good inputs guys. I'll see who else I can contact for a 2nd opinion. Not going back to cast concrete baffles makes sense to me. And I will bring up the issue of the tank being poorly cleaned. Just like oil changes being "all the same" 10 years ago, BITOG has taught me that such is never the case. And cleaning out and inspecting a septic tank isn't "just routine." You need to keep on them and know the requirements and operation. Unfortunately, I didn't watch close enough for the past 25 years. They pumped it...and I paid it.

I'd still puzzled as to where I got the clear picture in my head (circa 2006) of a crumbled concrete weir in my tank with bare rebar showing....needing patching. I don't see any way for rebar to be showing in that tank with a weir/baffle that is lower than the tank roof.
 
Here's a decent video on a DIY PVC tee installation

Old concrete baffle remove and Tee installed with removable filter.

In looking at what I have, the outlet pipe does neck straight down into the tank so maybe they did install a 4" PVC Tee last time around. But there's no Tee at all on the horizontal inlet pipe. Maybe that's where the fractured concrete pieces came from. If all they did last time was a PVC pipe install....for $750....that was a rip.
 
Interesting. I have baffles and an outlet Tee. Both baffles being used to stop scum from getting to the outlet side.

Seems awful in this case but these days it's nice having a smartphone and taking pics of anything and everything, for future reference.

Also: I generally take time off from work and stick around whenever I get stuff done at my house. I stay out of the way, don't offer help (unless if it's clear it's wanted), and try to take notes of whatever comes up for recommendations.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top