Boy, so much has changed since I've used them. Got an Airaid CAI and need to clean the filter. Haven't done it yet as the truck sits a lot. However, I remember some time ago when CIA's were all the fad, that you can clean them without having to spend the bucks on the cleaning kit. From what I remember, clean them with soapy water, let dry and then spray them down with WD-40? Or something along those lines. Truck seems to be running like it just has no power, and something tells me it's the air filter. I took it off and looked down the clean air tube side, and it has not a hint of dust or dirt in it so I know the filter is working well. Hopefully I just need to clean it.
School me.....cleaning air "oiled" filters
- Thread starter Schmoe
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I believe Airaid still uses oil-gauze -- like K&N. Thus, you'll need a cleaning kit. You can use a K&N kit. Some AEM, aFe, and Amsoil have a dry media -- which can be vacuumed, washed with water, etc.
I would stick with the correct cleaning kit. You can use the K&N cleaning kit (bought locally) for any oiled filter. Of course you can also order Airaid's official kit. If it's not filthy, you can simply tap out the loose stuff, and/or brush it with an old paint brush.
I guess that cleaning an oiled air filter by the directions is the best way to go unless you don't have any directions with the filter. For example, I clean my K&N's with the K&N air filter cleaning kit which consist of a pump spray bottle of cleaner(soap) and a spray can of the red oil.
* Cleaning a reusable/reoiled air filter takes several days IMHO so, keep on hand the factory or replacement filter(or another reusable air filter for that matter). I wouldn't want to clean with the soap/water and reoil in the same day and throw the filter right back in the the filter box. I like to make sure that the filter is completely dry after rincing. And, after reoiling, that the oil has soaked into the cotton gause for another day.
1)I spray the filter with the soap, both sides of the filter and let sit for at least the recomended time(10 min) but up to a 1/2 hour.
2)Then I rince the filter in the laundry tub using warm water, as the directions only picture a garden hose rince, minus the spicket/nozzle(no high pressure). Rince the filter(round filter) from the inside out and(flat filter) from the top downward.
3)I'll let the filter dry for about 3-4 or even more days prior to reoiling. When I reoil, I reoil "sparingly" letting the oil soak in for another day. Usually this is enough but, you'll be able to see if the filter need another shot of oil in some spots. I spray the oil from the outside(round filter) and from the bottom(flat filter), letting the intake pull the oil in further. Don't oil the filter closest to the TB or MAF sensor. No need to! There is enough vacuum to pull oil through the filter without pulling the oil directly into the intake system if reoiled properly/sparingly.
4)IMHO, those who have issues with reusable air filters are doing/not doing things properly or live in or near too many pollutants. These people may not be cleaning/reoiling properly or wait too long before cleaning/reoiling. Maintenance is the key! I don't recomend these air filters for many areas of the Pacific South West or deserts of AZ, NM, NV etc. Again IMHO!
I do recomend them for those who want these type of air filters and live in climates that are appropriate with little dust/pollutants and occasional rain, like the rest of North America, IMHO!
* Cleaning a reusable/reoiled air filter takes several days IMHO so, keep on hand the factory or replacement filter(or another reusable air filter for that matter). I wouldn't want to clean with the soap/water and reoil in the same day and throw the filter right back in the the filter box. I like to make sure that the filter is completely dry after rincing. And, after reoiling, that the oil has soaked into the cotton gause for another day.
1)I spray the filter with the soap, both sides of the filter and let sit for at least the recomended time(10 min) but up to a 1/2 hour.
2)Then I rince the filter in the laundry tub using warm water, as the directions only picture a garden hose rince, minus the spicket/nozzle(no high pressure). Rince the filter(round filter) from the inside out and(flat filter) from the top downward.
3)I'll let the filter dry for about 3-4 or even more days prior to reoiling. When I reoil, I reoil "sparingly" letting the oil soak in for another day. Usually this is enough but, you'll be able to see if the filter need another shot of oil in some spots. I spray the oil from the outside(round filter) and from the bottom(flat filter), letting the intake pull the oil in further. Don't oil the filter closest to the TB or MAF sensor. No need to! There is enough vacuum to pull oil through the filter without pulling the oil directly into the intake system if reoiled properly/sparingly.
4)IMHO, those who have issues with reusable air filters are doing/not doing things properly or live in or near too many pollutants. These people may not be cleaning/reoiling properly or wait too long before cleaning/reoiling. Maintenance is the key! I don't recomend these air filters for many areas of the Pacific South West or deserts of AZ, NM, NV etc. Again IMHO!
I do recomend them for those who want these type of air filters and live in climates that are appropriate with little dust/pollutants and occasional rain, like the rest of North America, IMHO!
Just another side note:
I don't think, IMHO, that these types of filters do alot as-far-as MPG or performance but, in a combonation with other mod's or tweeks with an engine, they're not a bad addition and add to the splender of it all even if it's for a little more sound under the hood. Those in racing are looking for every 1/10 or 1/100 sec. Those of us just driving our vehicle on the street are often looking to wake things up a little bit(cheaply). I like these filters for the older carb'd engines more so than the for EFI's. I often liked to tweek the carb(if possible), advance the timing(about 2deg's), add a little higher octane from the standard 87(you have to try the different grades for yourself) and maybe even change the size of the tires(lower diameter). These things alone will wake up a car/truck without tearing things apart or rebuilding stuff, when and you can't change a chip, hook up a power programer or the laptop and whatever else is available today. Although a BullyDog can be NICE!
I don't think, IMHO, that these types of filters do alot as-far-as MPG or performance but, in a combonation with other mod's or tweeks with an engine, they're not a bad addition and add to the splender of it all even if it's for a little more sound under the hood. Those in racing are looking for every 1/10 or 1/100 sec. Those of us just driving our vehicle on the street are often looking to wake things up a little bit(cheaply). I like these filters for the older carb'd engines more so than the for EFI's. I often liked to tweek the carb(if possible), advance the timing(about 2deg's), add a little higher octane from the standard 87(you have to try the different grades for yourself) and maybe even change the size of the tires(lower diameter). These things alone will wake up a car/truck without tearing things apart or rebuilding stuff, when and you can't change a chip, hook up a power programer or the laptop and whatever else is available today. Although a BullyDog can be NICE!
Originally Posted By: Schmoe
.....and expensive!!! Thanks for the reply's.
Yeah, that was my point!
.....and expensive!!! Thanks for the reply's.
Yeah, that was my point!
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