Salvagable rust
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Originally Posted by philipp10
Why is a hole in the wheel well considered a safety issue?
Exhaust fumes entering the cabin.
Why is a hole in the wheel well considered a safety issue?
Exhaust fumes entering the cabin.
Originally Posted by eljefino
You could glob "tiger hair" bondo with fiberglass on this for this years sticker.
It would not be much work though to cut it out, get some "tin" like flashing from Lowes, Pop_rivet it to the remaining metal. To make the curve, cut slits every 2 inches so you can "fan" it around the corner. Then cover this mess in fiberglass. This'll get you ~3 years instead.
Ya, no. That sounds way too labor intensive! Ain't nobody got time for that!
Bondo and putty knife is all you'll need.
Oh and don't bother cutting/grinding away the old rust, you'll need that to act as a foundation to get the bondo to adhere to the rest of the solid areas.
You're welcome!
You could glob "tiger hair" bondo with fiberglass on this for this years sticker.
It would not be much work though to cut it out, get some "tin" like flashing from Lowes, Pop_rivet it to the remaining metal. To make the curve, cut slits every 2 inches so you can "fan" it around the corner. Then cover this mess in fiberglass. This'll get you ~3 years instead.
Ya, no. That sounds way too labor intensive! Ain't nobody got time for that!
Bondo and putty knife is all you'll need.
Oh and don't bother cutting/grinding away the old rust, you'll need that to act as a foundation to get the bondo to adhere to the rest of the solid areas.
You're welcome!
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Originally Posted by Lolvoguy
Oh and don't bother cutting/grinding away the old rust, you'll need that to act as a foundation to get the bondo to adhere to the rest of the solid areas.
That's what I was getting at earlier in this thread.
Once you start grinding away at that area, it's going to open up clear to the rear door with nothing to build off of without really getting into things.
Oh and don't bother cutting/grinding away the old rust, you'll need that to act as a foundation to get the bondo to adhere to the rest of the solid areas.
That's what I was getting at earlier in this thread.
Once you start grinding away at that area, it's going to open up clear to the rear door with nothing to build off of without really getting into things.
I'd probably quit and flip it. I think once you get in there, it'll extend pretty far. But if you're committed, I had decent luck with JB Weld and aluminum flashing.
But I'd be looking at brake lines and everything under the car. IMO the brake lines, fuel lines, fuel filler etc can't that far behind.
But I'd be looking at brake lines and everything under the car. IMO the brake lines, fuel lines, fuel filler etc can't that far behind.
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by philipp10
Why is a hole in the wheel well considered a safety issue?
Exhaust fumes entering the cabin.
I also have to wonder when, as a unibody vehicle, when body integrity starts to go down hill. Every fold in the metal added strength.
Originally Posted by philipp10
Why is a hole in the wheel well considered a safety issue?
Exhaust fumes entering the cabin.
I also have to wonder when, as a unibody vehicle, when body integrity starts to go down hill. Every fold in the metal added strength.
To pass inspection it's an easy peasy fix. But it will most likely come back next year.
I would knock off whatever rust I can, use fiberglass filler to fill in the holes, followed by bondo and then spray fenders, rocker panels and lower doors with black rustoleum paint. Black because it will hide a lot of imperfections and when rust comes back it will not be as prominent.
Sort of like this. If you do a nice enough job, it will look a lot better than now.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/09/full-15440-36701-100_0366.jpg "[Linked Image]")
I would knock off whatever rust I can, use fiberglass filler to fill in the holes, followed by bondo and then spray fenders, rocker panels and lower doors with black rustoleum paint. Black because it will hide a lot of imperfections and when rust comes back it will not be as prominent.
Sort of like this. If you do a nice enough job, it will look a lot better than now.
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The questionable item last year was the bumper beam was nearly gone despite it looking fine on the surface(plastic) My mechanic who does inspections mentioned it a few months before he still passed.
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Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Originally Posted by madRiver
Hi I bought this 07 MDX with 80k on the cheap ($17k) back in 2011 knowing some dicey body work here.
Now at 200k 8yrs latter this reliable/trouble free vehicle has severe rust in this dicey area. I am unclear it will pass NH state inspection and the safety. I can move the entire rusty part(soft) slightly by hand.
Thoughts ?
https://www.autorust.com/
Phone is 401-944-4444, address is 275 Niantic Avenue, Cranston, RI.
Bring it to them. They have seen it before and can fix it for about a third what most shops charge. They might even have pre-made patch panels...they do for common problems on many cars.
Their website talks about frame rust, not body rust.
Originally Posted by madRiver
Hi I bought this 07 MDX with 80k on the cheap ($17k) back in 2011 knowing some dicey body work here.
Now at 200k 8yrs latter this reliable/trouble free vehicle has severe rust in this dicey area. I am unclear it will pass NH state inspection and the safety. I can move the entire rusty part(soft) slightly by hand.
Thoughts ?
https://www.autorust.com/
Phone is 401-944-4444, address is 275 Niantic Avenue, Cranston, RI.
Bring it to them. They have seen it before and can fix it for about a third what most shops charge. They might even have pre-made patch panels...they do for common problems on many cars.
Their website talks about frame rust, not body rust.
Krown treatment next time.
I think it's ready for a young guy with $1000 and thinks he can fix the rust.
You can fix it like some have suggested with spray foam, fiberglass and Bondo. It will last awhile.
Do you know how to Mig weld? Do you have a Mig welder?
I think it's ready for a young guy with $1000 and thinks he can fix the rust.
You can fix it like some have suggested with spray foam, fiberglass and Bondo. It will last awhile.
Do you know how to Mig weld? Do you have a Mig welder?
Originally Posted by Donald
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Originally Posted by madRiver
Hi I bought this 07 MDX with 80k on the cheap ($17k) back in 2011 knowing some dicey body work here.
Now at 200k 8yrs latter this reliable/trouble free vehicle has severe rust in this dicey area. I am unclear it will pass NH state inspection and the safety. I can move the entire rusty part(soft) slightly by hand.
Thoughts ?
https://www.autorust.com/
Phone is 401-944-4444, address is 275 Niantic Avenue, Cranston, RI.
Bring it to them. They have seen it before and can fix it for about a third what most shops charge. They might even have pre-made patch panels...they do for common problems on many cars.
Their website talks about frame rust, not body rust.
They fix any and all rust...and they are really, really good at it.
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Originally Posted by madRiver
Hi I bought this 07 MDX with 80k on the cheap ($17k) back in 2011 knowing some dicey body work here.
Now at 200k 8yrs latter this reliable/trouble free vehicle has severe rust in this dicey area. I am unclear it will pass NH state inspection and the safety. I can move the entire rusty part(soft) slightly by hand.
Thoughts ?
https://www.autorust.com/
Phone is 401-944-4444, address is 275 Niantic Avenue, Cranston, RI.
Bring it to them. They have seen it before and can fix it for about a third what most shops charge. They might even have pre-made patch panels...they do for common problems on many cars.
Their website talks about frame rust, not body rust.
They fix any and all rust...and they are really, really good at it.
Quick and dirty repair to pass inspection.
Structural rigid 2 part foam makes a super fast repair that can replace entire missing sections.
Or
Homeless depot sells a canned foam
That is far stronger and more dense than "great stuff"
Fill underneath, sand to shape. Cover with your choice of bed liner or rocker panel paint.
Structural rigid 2 part foam makes a super fast repair that can replace entire missing sections.
Or
Homeless depot sells a canned foam
That is far stronger and more dense than "great stuff"
Fill underneath, sand to shape. Cover with your choice of bed liner or rocker panel paint.
Originally Posted by KrisZ
To pass inspection it's an easy peasy fix. But it will most likely come back next year.
I would knock off whatever rust I can, use fiberglass filler to fill in the holes, followed by bondo and then spray fenders, rocker panels and lower doors with black rustoleum paint. Black because it will hide a lot of imperfections and when rust comes back it will not be as prominent.
Sort of like this. If you do a nice enough job, it will look a lot better than now.
Wow! Clever idea. Looks good.
To pass inspection it's an easy peasy fix. But it will most likely come back next year.
I would knock off whatever rust I can, use fiberglass filler to fill in the holes, followed by bondo and then spray fenders, rocker panels and lower doors with black rustoleum paint. Black because it will hide a lot of imperfections and when rust comes back it will not be as prominent.
Sort of like this. If you do a nice enough job, it will look a lot better than now.
Wow! Clever idea. Looks good.
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