Saab 2.8T V6 Royal Purple 0W-40

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4
Location
Anacortes, WA
Long time lurker, first time poster. I purchased this Aero at 108,XXX miles and immediately performed coolant flush, oil change (to RP 0W-40 w/ Napa Gold Filter), Spark Plugs, etc. All standard serviceable items. I found the usual discrepancies; incorrect coils, plugs, filter etc. I ran the oil for 5,756 miles. I don't like running over 6k, and since I drive a lot, I don't personally have a time limitation on oils. My bike won't go past 4, maybe 5 months if the weather is bad and I don't ride. I chose RP because I have had a horrendous experience with Mobile in another Saab of mine (1985 900 Turbo) and will never repeat that mistake. I fell for the Amsoil sales pitch and put in 0W-30 Signature after this Royal Purple, which I just can't justify the price for with so many other options meeting and exceeding GM-LL-A-25 / Dexos2. I'll ask about that later as well. Not quite sold on Pennzoil Platinum, but still looking. No oil additives in this one, only fuel. Seafoam and Chevron Techron cleaning. I have used ASL CamGuard in aircraft for years and have seen astonishing results. Doesn't mean I don't see Lycoming engines failing left and right (because the suck), but overall durability and corrosion resistance really shines in those engines when I have to replace cylinders or perform other functions. I think I will add some CamGuard after I see the next oil report. I apologize for the format, I read the first sticky on the oil analysis thread and don't have a comparison yet to make a nice format. MI/HR On Oil 5,756 MI/HR On Unit 114,132 Sample Date 07JAN18 Aluminum 2 Chromium 0 Iron 7 Copper 101 Lead 61 Tin 0 Molybdenum 65 Nickle 0 Manganese 0 Silver 0 Titanium 0 Potassium 0 Boron 54 Silicon 9 Sodium 6 Calcium 1835 Magnesium 14 Phosphorus 715 Zinc 832 Barium 0 SUS Viscosity @ 210F : 65.0 cST Viscosity @ 100C : 11.62 Flashpoint in F : 440 Fuel % :<0.5 Antifreeze & Water : 0.0 Insolubles % :0.2 So I am concerned with the copper, as is stated in Blackstone's report. The lead in the mix indicates to me that the previous owner/s may have used additives in the oil. Upon breakdown and inspection of the filter, I didn't see anything alarming. No massive carbon deposits and no metallic slivers or flakes like I've seen in my old Saab or various aircraft over the years. I will have a better idea upon my next analysis (I have 3,500 miles left before change). I've read that GM engines have more copper than others, and this being an LP9 I could almost understand that. Wrist pin bushings and such. Also read into seepage from the oil cooler? Around the Saab forums I've run into a few who have been changing the stock oil cooler to run remotely, which would be my preference. Difficult since the cooler also runs coolant through the oil cooler to decrease warmup time. Logical, but I'm still going to wait the 5 or so minutes for a proper warmup. Rapid metal expansion and contraction should be avoided at all costs. With a noticeable lack of other metals (looking at chromium mostly), I wouldn't quite say my bearing wear is a cause of concern, but if my next report comes out similar, I need to start looking at options.
 
Messages
4,671
Location
MN
Saabs are incredible fun to drive! I think the 2.8T was in 2006 to 2010 models, so your model year is in that range. Good UOA there, no problems. I'd maybe use a walmart 5-quart jug Castrol black jug Edge 0w40 which meets the very high standard of Mercedes 229.5. The Amsoil 0w30 does meet the minimum HTHS spec though, so you are good there, but the value, like you say, isn't good. No really bad choices. I might just put in Valvoline Maxlife full-synthetic 5w30 which does meet dexos1 Gen2, plenty of spec'ed protection and some extra seal conditioners to keep leaks from happening in the future.
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
To the original poster, welcome to the BITOG. thumbsup You have not specified model year, but I believe the Corsa in question is still relatively new. Up until the mid 2000s, a 15,000 km/1 year drain interval was what Opel recommended. Having said that, the GM-LL-A-025 specification basically requires the following: HTHS viscosity: >2.9 cSt Viscosity classification: 0W-30, 5W-30, 0W-40 or 5W-40 NOACK: <11.5 wt% TBN: >10.5 mg KOH/ g Sulfated ash content: < 1.6 wt% So these are things you may wish to look for in a product data sheet. The GM-LL-B-025 specification is actually quite close. The only differences are: HTHS viscosity: >3.5 cSt TBN: > 9.0 mg KOH/ g Looking at the specifications of Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40, there isn't information available on NOACK, TBN and sulfated ash content, so if there's anybody in the know, I hope they chime in. That said, as others have mentioned, I see no problems using Helix Ultra and following the old service recommendation. But if you really wish to step up to 30,000 km intervals, Mobil 1 0W-40 is a great choice, meeting GM-LL-A-025. Is this readily available in your area?
 
Messages
4,671
Location
MN
Because its a cartridge oil filter, your choice of Napa Gold was pretty good. (For canned oil filters, its almost always Fram Ultra.) You could improve the filtering efficiency slightly if you get a Fram XG8765 or TG8765, or maybe a Mobil1 oil filter. Lead and copper may mean some crank bearings are beginning to go. All you can do is just listen for knocking noises. That part of a UOA is advisory-only. No action possible unless you want to go the expense of replacing the lead-copper layers in the crank and rod bearings. "In addition to the supporting steel back, tri-metal bearings have an intermediate layer made of a copper alloy containing 20-25% of lead as a solid lubricant and 2-5% of tin as a strengthening additive. " from http://kingbearings.com/files/Engine_Bearing_Materials.pdf
 
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Messages
6,235
Location
Kalifornia Kollective
Did you do a pan drop and clean the oil pump pick-up? These are known to possibly have coking issues because of the close proximity of the CAT. Aero is a very nice car smile It does not get that cold where you are, so maybe try Rotella T6 (5W-40) if you want a less expensive option for oil... That's what I ran in my 2.3t right up until I sold it a few months ago. Worked fine smile
 

Artfulkatana

Thread starter
Messages
4
Location
Anacortes, WA
Pan drop is not necessary for any B207 or B284 engine as the exhaust doesn't run down the pan. Taking off the pan on this engine also requires removal of the timing cover and a few other components. No time or desire really. I thought Fram filters were a BIG no-no? I have always used WixXp or Napa Gold (same, obviously) My experience with mobile makes me never want to touch one of their products again, so that filter choice isn't really something I will consider. I'm too stubborn on Mobile now.
 
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Messages
31
Location
Chester County/Pa.
Why the Camguard? Many peoples belief on BITOG is that -- no need these days for oil additives with the quality of good synthetic & conventional oils on the market that do a superb job of cleaning & protecting engines.
 
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18,185
Location
Upper Midwest
Originally Posted By: Artfulkatana
I thought Fram filters were a BIG no-no? I have always used WixXp or Napa Gold (same, obviously) My experience with mobile makes me never want to touch one of their products again, so that filter choice isn't really something I will consider. I'm too stubborn on Mobile now.
Are we just trolling around or?
 
Messages
4,671
Location
MN
Originally Posted By: Artfulkatana
I thought Fram filters were a BIG no-no? I have always used WixXp or Napa Gold (same, obviously) My experience with mobile makes me never want to touch one of their products again, so that filter choice isn't really something I will consider. I'm too stubborn on Mobile now.
Fram was a no-no back about 12 years ago, but someone at that company really turned it around. Have confidence in Fram. ... What exactly makes you hate M1 oil? They've always used decent base oils with good add packs, so I don't understand. WixXP=NAPAplatinum and Wix=NAPAgold. All Wix products are OK, but they all lag behind in filtering efficiency compared to Fram/M1/Amsoil/RoyPurp oil filters. (Really avoid anything Purolator or Motorcraft, as they can get holes in them.)
Originally Posted By: Dobbie
Why the Camguard?
No need for Camguard. Well engineered oil is all you need.
 

Artfulkatana

Thread starter
Messages
4
Location
Anacortes, WA
I'm not trolling about Mobil, it ruined the bottom end of one of my 900 Turbos, ruined the bottom end of a racing prosche buddy of mine on the east coast, and a few in the Saab community have had bad issues with Mobil. Not trolling. Thankfully Mobil fixed the problem for me, but I won't use their products anymore. I was not aware that Fram turned around. Just like I'm not aware that Pennzoil was good...I've been trying to learn here. Filters are important, and will look more into RP and the like for filters. Thanks for the tip there :-)
 
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Artfulkatana

Thread starter
Messages
4
Location
Anacortes, WA
I also was looking into camguard because I am concerned about corrosion in the long run. I have also seen differences in camshaft lobes with it's usage. I have a water/methanol injection setup that I will be installing in the near future, and blow-by is always a factor. In the perfect world, I'd start with a Glyptol treatment around all applicable serfaces, but I can't have that kind of down time. So camguard is cheap insurance for now.
 
Messages
4,671
Location
MN
Originally Posted By: Artfulkatana
I'm not trolling about Mobil, it ruined the bottom end of one of my 900 Turbos, ruined the bottom end of a racing prosche buddy of mine on the east coast, and a few in the Saab community have had bad issues with Mobil. Not trolling. Thankfully Mobil fixed the problem for me, but I won't use their products anymore.
Some indictments of Mobil1 oil have popped up from time to time. 10 years ago, there was Valvoline's blatant unapologetic presentation that showed there was a problem with M1 5w30: https://mafiadoc.com/valvoline-synpower-...bc9ae9890b.html I don't know. It was very strange though. Surely whatever problems they might have had before have been corrected now though.
 
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25,140
Location
Dallas,Tx USA
Originally Posted By: farrarfan1
It's Mobil, not Mobile. Never have understood why some people call it Mobile.
Probably spell check. My Mac and iPhone will correct "mobil" to "mobile" if I don't catch it :P
 
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