RV Refridgerator Replacement Alternatives--cheap is best.

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TallPaul

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I have a 1990 motorhome with a typical RV refridgerator (approx 24 by 54 inches opening). It's probably around a 5.5 cubic foot unit. It let loose its ammonia the other day--peeeewwweee! Anyway, I would avoid the approximately $1500 replacement cost if possible, but what are my options?

Can it be fixed? Is it worth fixing?

What about a small elecric fridge (say 6 cubic feet which ad says uses 2 amps at 120 volts) and an inverter? I can get a 2000/4000 watt inverter for $200 used and the fridge would only be maybe $100 to $150. Also eliminates the shut off the flame every time I gas up situation.

Coolers and ice won't do.

Thanks.
 
Here's a starting point in your quest for knowledge.

RV Reefer repair

Which way is best depends on how you want to use your fridge. If you want to be able to keep you beer cold for long time in the boonies without running an engine, then fixing the amonia unit would be best.
 
Hey I like that. $450 for the cooling unit, plus shipping and installation and I am all set, vs butchering the interior to install an inverter setup that may/may not work all that well. Thanks.
 
Well, the only thing is that these ammonia fridges have a lifespan of 10 to 15 years, so a junkyard model is probably not going to have a great lifespan. But I really think I would like to get rid of the flame altogether. XS650' link is good because most refurbed cooling units are going to run nearly twice that price, but I can get a compact fridge for around $200 and a 1000 watt inverter (2000 watt surge) for $130. I just checked out someones compact fridge that is nearly the right size and it says 1.4 amps input. So this should be a cakewalk for the coach batteries and I normally am plugged in at campgrounds and driving a lot during the day, so I doubt it would tax the batteries much.
 
We bounce ours around quite a bit, although not in a motorhome situation. We moved it (again) this past weekend, and plugged it in immediately and had ice cold drinks in an hour or so. At $80 2 sons at 3 different colleges, we've gotten our money's worth out of it.

Besides, replacements are available at every WalMart on the face of the earth....
 
Since you're plugged in a lot, electric makes sense.

With the extra inverter power you will be able to power all sorts of toys.

Get your wife to drive and you can use your power tools on some good shop project while you're rolling down the highway.
grin.gif
 
quote:
Originally posted by TallPaul:
but I can get a compact fridge for around $200 and a 1000 watt inverter (2000 watt surge) for $130. I just checked out someones compact fridge that is nearly the right size and it says 1.4 amps input. So this should be a cakewalk for the coach batteries and I normally am plugged in at campgrounds and driving a lot during the day, so I doubt it would tax the batteries much.
Click to expand...
Don't forget a good ventilation path for the heat exchanger. It also wouldn't hurt to add some foam insulation when you install it. If sometime you want to go a couple of days without running it would help.
 
Thanks everyone. I think the existing ventilation path should do as it has a big vent on the lower back and a roof vent.

Pulled the fridge out of the motorhome tonight. That thing is heavy. I put boards on top of my portable generator (had metal roll bar cage) and pulled it out onto that, then planks to slide it to floor, then a big ramp and planks and slid it out the door. Dragged it to back of driveway (backyard) and opened the doors and left. Walked past it several minutes later and got stung in the eyes and nose. Guess that toxic ammonia cloud was moving out slowly. That is nasty stuff. I won't miss it with the electric fridge.

Maybe I will get some styrofoam to line the walls of the compartment.

I'll have to let you all know how it works out. Hope to have the fridge within the week.
 
How do those dorm-type fridges do when shaken? I've heard full-size iceboxes need an hour or three for the freon to "settle" after being jostled around.

There might be a marine app electric fridge that can handle tossing and turning.
 
Went around with this problem 2 years ago. Original RV style refrigerators only last 10 years Max. New Dometics could cost you over 1800.00 installed. If you don't need the LP fridge, then march down to your local SEARS as they carry 2 models (made by GE.)THAT FIT THIS TIGHT APPLICATION. Expect to pay 650.00 installed.
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quote:
Originally posted by H2GURU:
Went around with this problem 2 years ago. Original RV style refrigerators only last 10 years Max. New Dometics could cost you over 1800.00 installed. If you don't need the LP fridge, then march down to your local SEARS as they carry 2 models (made by GE.)THAT FIT THIS TIGHT APPLICATION. Expect to pay 650.00 installed.
.
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These Sears fridges you mention, are they by chance powered by 12 volt or would I still need an inverter?

How did your coach batteries hold up to the fridge demands? And what amperage was your fridge? Or watts?

I will install, but can find appropriate size fridges for around $300.
 
I mentioned the LP part because your fridge runs on this gas when you don't have electricity. The fix I used only works for 120 volt applications as my unit was a PARK MODEL.
 
I went to Lowes and got a 4.9 cubic foot two door Frigidare for $208. Am working on the installation. Built a platform at same level as fridge slot, so I can slide it in and out numerous times as I frame in the smaller sized cabinet.

I checked it out on 110 and it ran exactly as stated on the back of the unit, 1.2 amps, but startup draw was about 7.5 amps. A 1000 watt (2000 watt peak) inverter ought to handle it.

My next problem is whether to plug the land line into the inverter or run the fridge separate directly from the inverter. With the land line pluged in I will be converting some battery voltage to 115 volt and that will run the built in battery charger, sort of a stupid loop and wastes some energy I would guess.

Also got a voltage regulator for my solar pannels so I can run them too.
 
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