Turns out a halfway decent flare tool is only around $20. Try looking on amazon. A double flare tool also makes bubble flares, just quit halfway.
Lots of brake line now comes with a thin layer of green stuff-- plastic or something-or-other, looks like it's supposed to help it last longer.
It's pretty likely the wheel cylinders, Tees, and prop valve have different size/thread nuts than the ones on prebuilt lines. The master cylinder will have four different sizes to help the assembly line people get it right. Plus you have an acre of frame between the firewall and rear axle. I'd get at least one 25 foot roll of bulk line for flaring.
You can get adapters from the standard 3/16 double flare line nut to the wheel or master cylinder but they're $6 or so each and you pretty much have to bring the old one to the parts store to compare. They won't be able to look it up for you in any computer. They could probably pull a wheel cylinder or caliper to check its thread if business is slow... but better to bring it in.
By the time you get adaptors, unions every five feet, etc in the pursuit of not flaring, it gets expensive and you have more failure points.
If you flare, you can often reuse the old end nuts. They don't look great but will work.
Hint, if the end nuts are threaded all they way down they go with a double flare (looks like a funnel). If they have a smooth spot all the way down, they go with a bubble flare. There is no rule anymore about domestic vs foreign, metric vs standard, bubble double. Especially on Fords.
What you find, you put back.
Finally, flare or line wrenches look cool but rarely work for me. My "best" brake tools are regular open end wrenches, vise grips, and 6 pt sockets after cutting the lines off. You can apply the torque you need with an open end wrench on new lines.
Advance auto has the bulk brake line but you have to ask. They also have bags of ten unions for $8 while they will happily sell them one at a time for $3 ea.
