Agreed, my mistake. Sorry OP.
Rotella T4 15w40 + Lucas in a 93 Corvette Autocross Race Car
- Thread starter Robvette
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And 4 stroke ATVs that rev to 9K and share the engine oil with the transmission and clutch.
That car is rad af
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Do they really work ok though? Everybody I know that has run Rotella in motorcycles isn't actually the type to do any internal engine work. They think Rotella automatically equals high quality and just assume it's a great choice. Rotella is nothing special. It's oil made to a price-point to appease truck fleets with a cult following due to advertising.
BROTella!
The car has a Lucas sticker on it.
I'd use it then.
Cheap + engine didn't explode = god's gift to engines
People will go to great lengths to justify saving a buck. If Rotella was to suddenly go to $50/gal, they'd drop it in a hearbeat.
Well... What more could you ask for?
Rotella is inexpensive, readily available, thicc, and has a decent add pack.
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Beautiful car. M1 15w50 will do fine.
Remove the Lucas sticker and have fun.
Remove the Lucas sticker and have fun.
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Paging @Foxtrot08 to give us the scoop on Rotella.
Instead of 15W40 T4, better go with Delvac Extreme HTHS 4.1.
Delvac 10W30 has a hths of 3.6.
Delvac 10W30 has a hths of 3.6.
It’s expensive, shears terribly (T4 does) and mostly just marketing.
Lots of better engine oils out there for HDMO use, for the same or less money.
They spend 55-60 million a year marketing Rotella. Someone is paying for that…
What if this thread was some kind of guerrilla advertising scheme by Lucas and we all got sucked in?
That car is gorgeous…. Enjoy it! Do I spy a KSR Performance and Fabrication sticker?
That's what I was thinking. If it is JUST an AX car I don't think I would want that thick unless there was some underlying low-pressure issue I was trying to band-aid. You don't usually get, nor want, a ton of warmup time. You could sit there and let the car run, but then you're heat soaked for the run and usually sucking in nice super hot air to the engine. I'd want an oil that can flow well on the colder end of the temp range, so I can start and go.
Right. And that’s why I slipped in the 10W30 Delvac which has the same hths as some of the 0W40s @ 3.6
With 1,500 mile oil changes, I doubt if an engine oil shearing down would be a concern.
Friends don’t let friends use “Brotella”, but I couldn’t help myself last summer and bought 5 pails of 15W40 T5 for $60 USD each.
So I’m not the one paying for advertising.
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Why a diesel oil at all? Why not just run Mobil 1 HM in 5W-30 or 10W-40? Or if the car is catless and some extra zinc is desired, then Valvoline VR1.
I'm very weary of diesel oils in gas applications. Gasoline oils contain more anti-foamer to match the general higher redline of gas engines, and I'm not sure why people would want to roll the dice on that.
But the foaming requirements per ASTM D6082 are nearly identical between gasoline and diesel oils with an API license. In fact the diesel one is a bit more stringent.
Nice. 50 is insane for a water-cooled, low power density SBC engine. I would also not run a LL euro oil - too much detergent.
I like Mercury Marine i/o 4 stroke 25W40 for high power density SB and BB; even that may be too thick for you.
Keep an eye on oil temps first time out. You may do well with just a 10W30 or a Superbike 4T lube - if you dont want to cough up unnecessary bucks for boutique products.
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