Rookie needs advice on Front Brakes

[wiswind]

I am thinking that my '96 windstar pics should be pretty close to your '95 Taurus, as far as how things go together.

Tosh:
Shop that did my last brake job (dealer) got carried away with anti-squeel.....and it got onto the rotors / pads.

Brakes really don't work well when that happens.

I decided to try not using it.....and they have been very quiet.

So...it is worth taking notice....be carefull to not over-do the lube.
I know that this is a Lube site....but lube on brake surfaces is not a good thing.

If linings (pads or shoes) become contaminated with any lubricant....they are no longer any good, and must be replaced.

Disk brakes are easier than drum brakes....although problems can come up with any repair job.

Make SURE that your wheel lugs are torqued in a "star" pattern to the correct torque for your vehicle.
If the lug nuts are not correctly torqued, and the same, it WILL cause the rotor to warp.....and you will feel it whenever you use your brakes. It will also cause your vehicle to not brake as well, and the pads to not wear evenly (as in one or more pads wearing out fast).

 

[coopns]

Brake Update...

So we started to pull the wheel off last night, and it was stuck. Had to use a sledge hammer from the back. Rotor need some 'gentle' sledge as well.

I had a friend who knows a bit more then me which isn't saying much but we had lots of pics and he has a pile of tools...thanks wiswind for the pics and autozone had a pretty good tutorial with doc. Really wasn't bad just bolts that were stuck on the caliper assembly piece one stripped and rusted on. We were just getting ready to install everything and ready to put the c-clamp on the piston and we weren't sure if we were suppose to clean it or not and with what type of grease? Buddy's dad showed up and saw it was pretty gummed up, looked like originals from 95 so he said might as well replace them too. He then menitoned there is a pack that included the pads, caliper and the piston and he could get a mechanic's discount. Sounded good to me, was just a bit more than I paid for the Wagner pads for the pack. Buddy's dad ended up putting the pack back on (I told him to wait to show me...guess not), didn't look like there was much to it though. I did feel confident I could to it.

Back are disk as well are they the same to do or are there other variables in the back brakes with things such as e-brake. And, Buddy's dad had a number of different places to lube with dialetic grease and some other type of grease in the piston. I wasn't sure how much grease to apply and where to apply it. Still unclear, maybe someone could clarify?

So, thanks for all the advice and encouragement. I am certainly not intimidated anymore. Everyone's input was invaluable, really, I read everything for 2 nights and felt ready. I think I probably could have done it myself, might have had to buy 1 or 2 tools. If I don't have a air gun (buddy did) how can I torque to factory specs?

Thanks again, probably saved me 200 or more. A year ago I didn't know how to change the oil, now I do the oil, and transmission fluid (and 1/2 a brake job). Certainly not bragging, just thanking.

 

[Vilan]

In case you want to learn more, I found that ACDelco has a decent description of how to do basic car maintenance on their website. How to change the oil, air filter, coolant, battery, and spark plugs/wires. (Using only quality ACDelco parts, of course!)

I used it to help me when flushing my radiator, it's not bad. Click here and then click on whichever one you want to see, then click step by step on the right side of the screen for details.

 

[Papa Bear]

You have done well..grasshopper.

P.B.

 

[labman]

Leave the hydraulics alone, including the bleed screw, when you do your first pad job. Otherwise, good way for a newbe to get in trouble. If you didn't ask for trouble by unnecessarily topping off the master cylinder, you shouldn't have any problem with excess brake fluid. I did my front pads a couple of months ago on my 02 Cavalier, and I still haven't had the cap off the master cylinder yet.

Clean up good or replace the hardware. The caliper must be free to slide in and pull the outer pad in against the rotor, then back out just enough to release. I like Sil-Glyde on all my brake parts except the lining.

Before you jack the car up, apply anti squeal compound to the new pads. By the time you are ready for them, they will be ready to go on.

The rubber parts of the calipers don't last forever. Rebuild or replace them every few pad changes. I know people that do it every pad change.