Ended up getting a crown vic with the blank dead odometer display and some IC error codes related to node communication and battery too low. This is caused by bad solder in the main IC, and also the surface mount resistors under the display. I also opt to remove the display glass by desoldering using a HAKKO 301 and then hand soldering them. I opt to pile the solder on instead of focusing on good cosmetics as this section of the baord goes thru a lot of thermal cycles. I also resolder the main IC with hot air then the connector pins on the molex and the TLE4275Q legs. As a last step I burn the corona wires on the glass tube of 1/2 second using a 9v battery. It really helps brighten the display glass. Here is the awsome results.
Resoldered Crown Victoria Instrument Cluster
- Thread starter Fordiesel69
- Start date
I don't know about gobbing on solder as helping the joint. I'd rather have the solder joint flex and crack than to have the component end cap flex and then crack the part. Still. It's what I'd wind up doing (never was trained on soldering--and it shows).
Good job.
Did Crown Vic's use leadfree solder? The later years would be after that introduction, but I'm not sure how many Ford planed to export to Europe, so I have no idea when/if they made the changeover. I'm starting to notice some of my assembly houses are starting to favor RoHS soldering. Had to update some assembly instructions to specifically state to use tin-lead, used to be we could assume that this was the default. The default is changing now...
Good job.
Did Crown Vic's use leadfree solder? The later years would be after that introduction, but I'm not sure how many Ford planed to export to Europe, so I have no idea when/if they made the changeover. I'm starting to notice some of my assembly houses are starting to favor RoHS soldering. Had to update some assembly instructions to specifically state to use tin-lead, used to be we could assume that this was the default. The default is changing now...
The speedometer in the digi cluster in my GRAND marquis goes out if sun hits the dashboard. it's awful. One of these years I'm going to fix it.
For SMD components I prefer using solder paste. It flows so nicely. And like supton, I do not not use an excessive amount of solder. I want just enough. Again, solder paste and a very fine-tipped soldering iron with temperature control make soldering easy.
I bought a few spools of very fine ROHS-compliant leadfree silver solder over 20 years ago and I still have not run out of. Never had a problem with it. My supply will likely last me for the rest of my life because I do only occasional soldering anymore.