Replacing A Hard Brake Line...Any Tips

[Fitz98]

I blew a hard brake line last night...fortunately I was in my driveway when it happened.
It was either from rust, or rubbing on a hose clamp on top of my gas tank., or a combination of both.
It goes from my left rear brake, over the gas tank along a cross support to the right rear brake.

1) I am curious, if this happens on the road, would I have lost brakes completely, or would the fronts still work independently of the rear?
2) Any tips for the repair?

 

[atikovi]

You would still have front brakes but your stopping power would be noticeably reduced. Can you get a pre-bent line or will you make it yourself?

 

[slacktide_bitog]

You would still have the emergency brake, since its purpose is for a situation like that, when the hydraulics fail (and complete loss of brake fluid is definitely a failure of the hydraulics because they don't work without the fluid)

If you're brave/foolish enough to drive it, you'd have to downshift manually and stop with the emergency brake and downshifting/putting it in park/neutral, etc.

This happened to me once, but luckily, a shop is not too far, only a few blocks away, and no driving on main roads required, so I drove it very carefully and slowly to the shop. Bulk generic brake line wire is available by the roll, if you can bend/crimp it.

 

[vavavroom]

Which brakes will still work depends on the split in the hydraulic brake system. Front/rear is most common now, but dual-diagonal and diagonal split still exist. Losing both front brakes with a front/rear split system would be exciting.

 

[bullwinkle]

The nickel/copper stuff is easy to bend, never rusts, and is available either in a roll or with fittings already attached. Worth its' weight in gold!

 

[ragtoplvr]

You would still have the emergency brake, since its purpose is for a situation like that, when the hydraulics fail (and complete loss of brake fluid is definitely a failure of the hydraulics because they don't work without the fluid)

If you're brave/foolish enough to drive it, you'd have to downshift manually and stop with the emergency brake and downshifting/putting it in park/neutral, etc.

This happened to me once, but luckily, a shop is not too far, only a few blocks away, and no driving on main roads required, so I drove it very carefully and slowly to the shop. Bulk generic brake line wire is available by the roll, if you can bend/crimp it.

WRONG!!!!!!!!!

You have 2 independent hydraulic brake systems, probably in a split diagonal system. One front and one rear. You have at best 50% braking and the petal will feel very soft and go almost to the floor. However you still have one front and one rear. And the emergency brake

It is true you should not drive it other than to get to a safe place and then call a tow. Should someone walk out in front of you you only have 1/2 brakes at best If you were going down a hill you could stop. The petal will feel funny though.

Rod

 

[Speedy3861]

If a hard line failed, probably good to have them all checked, depending on age of vehicle, the rubber flex lines at each wheel might be due for replacement as well. Also time for a fluid change. Brakes are something you don't skimp on, your life and the lives of others depend on them.

 

[Kestas]

True. Quite often an inspection will show other lines are just as bad.

 

[repairman54]

And use the right flaring tool, double flare not single. And do not use compression fittings to splice in a line as they will blow out on a panic stop. Change the complete line from factory blocks to block or brake component.

 

[The_Eric]

Agree on nickle copper - it's a joy to use and all I ever install. Buy or rent a flaring tool, cut to length, deburr, flare and install. Easy peasy. You probably won't be able to hit all the factory clips without removing the fuel tank, so just feed it up through and make your final bend(s) on the other side

 

[Fitz98]

It turns out that it was already replaced. The old rusted one was still installed beside it. It was rubbing on the edge of band of a hose clamp on the fuel tank and wore through.
My local parts store was out of the flexible roll, but I was able to get a 60" and a 12" steel line and was pretty easy to flex. Will use a bubble flare union to splice the joint.
I was able to re-route it to catch 2 factory clips and avoid all the other obstacles. Thanks for the help.