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I'm sure there's counter arguments, but I like the older style (cheaper) offerings from Radiator Dr. and the like. I've found no disadvantage to using them.
Replacement radiator - which kind ....
- Thread starter Gary Allan
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Unless I have difficulties in locating one, otherwise, an all metal (copper) radiator would be my best bet.
If not, any aftermarket plastic/aluminium fins replacement radiator should fit your bill.
If not, any aftermarket plastic/aluminium fins replacement radiator should fit your bill.
If an all metal radiator goes bad, you may be able to have it repaired (soldered). If a plastic and aluminum one goes bad you just replace it.
Not true about plastic radiators, depends on where it fails, I have one in my 2nd gen rx7 which took a rock and started to leak in the fins, radiator shop welded it right up same as anything else. Sure metal is better I would say but then again how long did the stock one last? I just had to put a new radiator in my 89 crx hf and I got a stock one from rock auto which cost 80 bucks and actually increased the cooling capacity because its got an extra row on it. Check around, but plastic tops and bottoms on radiators have been around for nearly two decades now, they are dependable and light. I would say go metal if its not too much more, otherwise just go stock IMHO.
Full metal? I didnt know they still made those (outside of vehicles that originally came with them). Seriously, plastic tanks arent bad! I personally like OEM radiators because you know its going to fit correctly and that everything (trans cooler lines, temps sensors, brackets, etc) will attach without problems.
is of the best quality?
Is a metal radiator of better quality over OEM - which is plastic.
Vehicle is an Isuzu Rodeo
Is a metal radiator of better quality over OEM - which is plastic.
Vehicle is an Isuzu Rodeo
well I know I will probably go OEM for now on. I tried to save money and buy a cheaper non-OEM radiator for my 97 saturns SC2. I think the thing was made out of aluminum pepsi cans and one of the tabs got stuck and caused a big hole to blow right through the center. Anyway a lesson learned... cheap always isn't good, sometimes its prudent to buy OEM.
If you're installing the core yourself, you can go to any number of on-liners like Rock Auto, Whitney, or even the local-yokel auto parts store, which is most likely where the Stealership gets their replacements. All of them are sourced overseas from different plants, and I'd not be surprised to find that the same plants feed both the OEM factory and the replacement market.
They certainly aren't expensive at around $150.00, and looking at my new car, I'd say they're getting thinner and cheaper every year. My system capacity is only a shade over 6 qts., not including about a qt. in the puke-take. Amazing how well they work and how efficient these systems are. I rarely see cars on the side of the road boiling out the radiator these days.
They certainly aren't expensive at around $150.00, and looking at my new car, I'd say they're getting thinner and cheaper every year. My system capacity is only a shade over 6 qts., not including about a qt. in the puke-take. Amazing how well they work and how efficient these systems are. I rarely see cars on the side of the road boiling out the radiator these days.
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One thing that helps radiator reliability is that many cars no longer have the large grill openings they used to. They now rely on an air dam to direct the airflow beneath the car up into the radiator. That way, the bugs and rocks hit the dam, not the radiator and don't do as much damage. Also, in most cars, the AC condensor absorbs most of the direct impacts anyway.
Years ago, I wouldn't think twice about an aftermarket rad or patching up an old one. They were all copper then and very easy to mend. And the engines were different, with huge cooling tolerances.
But the newer engines can be much more sensitive to overheats. On some of the open deck alloy blocks, one major cooling system rupture is all it takes to warp them dead.
If the vehicle is still under powertrain warranty or has tighter cooling margins, you're better served going with an OEM unit. They are admittedly much more expensive, but they are generally better made and hold up longer than most all the aftermarket stuff I run across.
Otherwise, if it's a beater or one with a traditional cast iron powerplant, you can get by saving some money and taking your chances on aftermarket.
More modern rads don't repair all that well compared to the old time stuff. Just my 2c.
But the newer engines can be much more sensitive to overheats. On some of the open deck alloy blocks, one major cooling system rupture is all it takes to warp them dead.
If the vehicle is still under powertrain warranty or has tighter cooling margins, you're better served going with an OEM unit. They are admittedly much more expensive, but they are generally better made and hold up longer than most all the aftermarket stuff I run across.
Otherwise, if it's a beater or one with a traditional cast iron powerplant, you can get by saving some money and taking your chances on aftermarket.
More modern rads don't repair all that well compared to the old time stuff. Just my 2c.
Actually, going the "cheap" route was not in my intention at all - got too much invested in my rigs to go cheap.
What I meant to imply was if I could find a heavier duty radiator or one that was BETTER then OEM quality.
Truly have no complaints about the current oem one, however, it's still cooling very well at 160k miles - just want it out, as I've heard by now that most radiators are rotting from the inside and sometimes you don't know it until the transmission cooler leaks into the tranny and causing damage.
In general, I just wasn't sure if metal or aluminum was the way to go. I ended up purchasing one from Napa made by Modine, direct fit and it's all metal. Definitely wasn't cheap, roughly $280, about $25 more then OEM.
Thank you for all the replies
What I meant to imply was if I could find a heavier duty radiator or one that was BETTER then OEM quality.
Truly have no complaints about the current oem one, however, it's still cooling very well at 160k miles - just want it out, as I've heard by now that most radiators are rotting from the inside and sometimes you don't know it until the transmission cooler leaks into the tranny and causing damage.
In general, I just wasn't sure if metal or aluminum was the way to go. I ended up purchasing one from Napa made by Modine, direct fit and it's all metal. Definitely wasn't cheap, roughly $280, about $25 more then OEM.
Thank you for all the replies
i bought a couple radiators from radiatorbarn.com, they are cheaper than all the parts stores.
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Then go to the cheaper sources. The OEM rad on my Jeep is junk. Single core and a throw away item. The 3 core that I got from the chain 800 number site is FAR superior to it. I wasn't going to get the same junk that they put in from the factory.
AcuraTech,
The OEM radiator for my Integra cost $400+ and it is prone to crack at the plastic top around 80k to 160k miles. In this case I would think an aftermarket replacement will be better (cost only $100 or so)
IMO the fit and finish of all metal units are usually not as good, and if I were to choose again I would have chosen a plastic-Al one. You wouldn't have imagine how long it take to fit the all metal one and how much bath tub corking it takes to secure the radiator and AC fan on that darn thing.
The OEM radiator for my Integra cost $400+ and it is prone to crack at the plastic top around 80k to 160k miles. In this case I would think an aftermarket replacement will be better (cost only $100 or so)
IMO the fit and finish of all metal units are usually not as good, and if I were to choose again I would have chosen a plastic-Al one. You wouldn't have imagine how long it take to fit the all metal one and how much bath tub corking it takes to secure the radiator and AC fan on that darn thing.
Ok, got the metal one from Napa, a Modine brand, fit right in no problems.
The OEM radiator, to my surprise, still looks to be in REALLY good shape, internally/externally, from what I can tell. Being my luck, I probably got it out "just in time", however.
Thanks a bunch!
The OEM radiator, to my surprise, still looks to be in REALLY good shape, internally/externally, from what I can tell. Being my luck, I probably got it out "just in time", however.
Thanks a bunch!
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