Aka why do I even try.
I replaced some super rusty rear calipers (with broken bleeder screws) with duralast, when finished I drove it and the pads are way stuck. Three block drive, constant metal on metal, got the rear rotors really hot. It's now night time and I used a flashlight to look and the guide pins seem to be jabbing into the back of the pads. There is no float whatsoever with the caliper. What gives? I torqued it like I did with the Oem calipers, but never had this issue. Was i supposed to take out the bushings and bolts from the old calipers and use them? I noticed with the remanufactured pads, the bolts that are supplied just went right in and out of the other side the rubber boots.
Darn, it's too dark to work again, thought maybe I'd ask here to get a better idea tomorrow.
I replaced some super rusty rear calipers (with broken bleeder screws) with duralast, when finished I drove it and the pads are way stuck. Three block drive, constant metal on metal, got the rear rotors really hot. It's now night time and I used a flashlight to look and the guide pins seem to be jabbing into the back of the pads. There is no float whatsoever with the caliper. What gives? I torqued it like I did with the Oem calipers, but never had this issue. Was i supposed to take out the bushings and bolts from the old calipers and use them? I noticed with the remanufactured pads, the bolts that are supplied just went right in and out of the other side the rubber boots.
Darn, it's too dark to work again, thought maybe I'd ask here to get a better idea tomorrow.
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