Replace or resurface warped brake rotors?

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Jimmy,

What happened about the wrong brake pads? At the Raybestos site, I noticed they changed to a new, springless pad with the 2003 model year.

Re: Smoking......Did you clean off the anti-rust rotor coating?

If The Critic finds out you used anti-squeal paste on pads that have glued on shims, watch out!
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I have the incorrect Napa pads and the Napa rotors in my truck now so I can return them tomorrow after work. The parts from AAP worked fine. As far as cleaning the anti-rust rotor coating, I cleaned both sides of both rotors with a clean shop rag and brake cleaner before I put them on the hub. They were sealed in plastic in the box. I didn't know there was any coating on the rotor surface. If there was and if brake cleaner isn't enough to clean it, that's news to me. Maybe that is what caused the heated wheels and smoke. I drove it again tonight to pick up my girlfriend from work and when we got home the heated smell was much less noticeable and the wheels were only warm, not hot like before. Maybe there is/was some coating on the rotor surface. I don't know. And I know I didn't get any anti-squeal on the pads' surface, and there are no shims on these pads. Only the metal backing plate that rivets to the pads. I always use the anti-squeal on new brake pads and never had a problem with it.

Thanks for the help.
 
Why were you so adamant that the brakes get changed this weekend? You took somewhat of a chance that NAPA will give you your money back. But, everyone has their reasons I guess.
 
Brakes needed changing because 1. there was a really bad vibration/shudder/wobble when braking from 40 and higher MPH to a stop and 2. I needed my truck fixed so I could get to work today.

The little Napa store in my town cheerfully refunded my money this afternoon and they sincerely apologized several times for the problems I had. The manager was shocked at the obvious manufacturer defects in the defective rotor.

Truck runs and stops just fine now, no more smoking wheels. But the wheels are still hot after driving. I guess all wheels do that, from the friction of driving and braking.
 
To me I think most of the brake pulsation I've had will come back shortly after a rotor turning. Most likely the casting quality of the rotor was poor so the thickness variation in temperature will change its thickness. If your rotor is good, and was wearing evenly but a new pad is installed, turn it.

If your rotor is pulsing, turning doesn't seems to help.
 
Pulsation due to rotor thickness variation will come back if YOU DON'T FIX THE CAUSE OF THE RUN-OUT!!! See my previous post on page 1.
 
I agree with Panda and the others here that turning rotors is just a band aid. That's why I went with new rotors and new pads too, even though the old pads had acceptable thickness left, they were maybe 50% worn.

I did clean the rotor mounting surface on the hubs, and I did torque the lug nuts to 95 ft lbs, manual calls for 85 to 115 ft lbs. I also cleaned off the calipers, cleaned and regreased the slide pins and the slide surfaces. Plus I bedded the pads to the rotors very well. I have done everything I know to be sure I did this job correctly, and I have had no problems with the brakes since Sunday. Wheels are warm or hot after driving depending on the temperature and traffic. The wheels on my gf's Honda are hot too when she gets home from work and that's only 4 miles from here.

My truck brakes perfectly now, no vibration or pulsation at all. There is still a faint hot metal smell right close to the wheel surface after driving, but I am sure that will go away after the pads and rotors break in a bit and the anti squeal compound and the caliper grease are on there for a while.
 
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