Replace one failed injector or all?

[92saturnsl2]

Thought I had my daughter's "new-to-us" car (1999 Camry 2.2L 5S-FE / auto / 170K) buttoned up and was ready to turn the keys over fully, but the very next start the engine had an awful vibration, determined to be misfire on the #2 cylinder.

Ignition is good but fuel injector is dead. Probing it with a multimeter shows a completely open circuit, while all the others read 14-15 ohms. I felt pretty defeated as a dad.

I can get reman injectors on Rockauto (Beck/Arnley or "GB Remanufacturing" brands) for about $30/piece. Should these be replaced as a set or just replace the faulty one? The engine was running tip-top before this happened. In all my years of driving, I've never had an injector just up and die suddenly.

 

[97prizm]

I'm fighting this with my chevy cavalier. My dad ordered injectors for it as one was leaking. Apparently it's not correct which is odd as it seems like it's running really rich only on the new injector. I'd go all new.

 

[KGMtech]

I'd go OEM and only do the one.

 

[ls1mike]

I had one bad one on the WS6. I replaced one bad one. No issues, however I do like to replace them in sets.

 

[SC Maintenance]

I would be hesitant for the cheap / chinese rebuilds. I would buy the best new injector I could find, then get the one I removed rebuilt by someone that knows what there doing to have handy for next time.

 

[Trav]

SMP are okay for new, stay clear of so called remans (they are not remanufactured at all) and cheap ebay stuff which is mostly Chinese.
You need to know if you have Fed or CA emissions, the injectors are different.

 

[thastinger]

Would look for a matched set of new myself.

 

[Hirev]

I would just replace the one injector with an OEM and any O rings that are disturbed on that old of car.

 

[dubber09]

I guess it depends on how long you wanna keep the car and how much inconvenience and expense it'd be for the driver if the car stalls away from home and needs to be towed.

 

[tig1]

Replace all of them.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

I'd go OEM and only do the one.

This. OEM injectors aren't cheap (but are still available), and the 5S-FE isn't difficult to work on.

 

[researcher]

I will add what @Trav said, I found the SMP brand (new injectors) which for my Civic were made in South Carolina! who knows if that's still true.. But.. The injectors were running perfectly! So yup decent brand for injectors (aftermarket)

 

[92saturnsl2]

SMP are okay for new, stay clear of so called remans (they are not remanufactured at all) and cheap ebay stuff which is mostly Chinese.
You need to know if you have Fed or CA emissions, the injectors are different.

Definitely a fed car, it's right on the underhood sticker and it has the dark green injectors. I'm shopping Rockauto and SMP (new) are available at $113 which is cost prohibitive to replace all 4 on this older car. Other option is to go with reman (Beck/Arnley or GB). The latter brand I've read good things about online. My only concern is replacing only one with a new unit and having it skew fuel trims-- I don't think the ECU is very sophisticated. It's a sequential MPFI design (has crank position sensor) but it couldn't even tell me that a fuel injector was dead-- all I got was a lean bank 1 code despite the failure being quite obvious.

This. OEM injectors aren't cheap (but are still available), and the 5S-FE isn't difficult to work on.

As far as an I-4 fuel rail removal, I beg to differ. Tucked in the way back (slanted engine), I see no way to get to it without removing the valve cover, which I just replaced all seals on. Could be worse though!

 

[Dinoburner]

On a 2004 Trailblazer had two injectors fail 30000 miles apart. I only repair failed parts except for tires and plugs.

 

[wavinwayne]

I would replace only the one with OEM. Then if another ever goes bad, replace the set.

 

[Urshurak776]

Definitely a fed car, it's right on the underhood sticker and it has the dark green injectors. I'm shopping Rockauto and SMP (new) are available at $113 which is cost prohibitive to replace all 4 on this older car. Other option is to go with reman (Beck/Arnley or GB). The latter brand I've read good things about online. My only concern is replacing only one with a new unit and having it skew fuel trims-- I don't think the ECU is very sophisticated. It's a sequential MPFI design (has crank position sensor) but it couldn't even tell me that a fuel injector was dead-- all I got was a lean bank 1 code despite the failure being quite obvious.


As far as an I-4 fuel rail removal, I beg to differ. Tucked in the way back (slanted engine), I see no way to get to it without removing the valve cover, which I just replaced all seals on. Could be worse though!

Beck/Arnley are pretty good. I would have no issue running those.

Since nobody else is going to say it, I will. You removed valve cover and we didn’t get pics? Admins, please remove Mr. Saturn….

 

[92saturnsl2]

Beck/Arnley are pretty good. I would have no issue running those.

Since nobody else is going to say it, I will. You removed valve cover and we didn’t get pics? Admins, please remove Mr. Saturn….

Ask and you shall receive lol. I've read that some of the Toyota engines of this era have sludge problems, this one just has a lot of varnish-- no goo, just stuck on deposits which I'm not very worried about.

 

[paulo57509]

I would just replace the offending injector. I've done this with the Legend (reman) and the Safari (OEM) without issue.

I really had to think hard about doing just one with the SCPI in the Safari, since the injectors are inside the intake manifold. But I really didn't want to spend +$600 on a "what-if".

 

[Trav]

The problem injectors I see where I would replace them all and not with a like units because they are prone to failure is some of the all plastic Deka models, Magneti Marelli Pico and Rochester/Delphi Multec 1 injectors.
Yesterday I did a set of 1973 MB 450 SL Bosch injectors with over 300K on them that were very dirty but tested out fine electrically and after cleaning run and flow absolutely perfect.

The problem with gasoline remans from most companies is they are not remaned at all, they are cleaned, new filters and o rings. No new nozzles or coils which on most injectors is impossible anyway. Diesels are another story but even they sometimes do not use new electrics.
Companies buy 55 gal drums filled with used injectors from recyclers sort like injectors out then clean them, very little electrical testing is done, you could buy a set of say 6 and get 6 injectors from different engines all with different miles on them. Not a good way to go.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

It appears you can get to the exhaust manifold? You may be able to use a thermal camera or a thermometer thingy to see if there is a significant temperature difference between the 4 cylinders? That would probably tell you about the injectors health?