So I posted in another thread about a new impact wrench I bought and when testing it and removing my front wheel I found what appeared to be either a leaking axle seal or perhaps a torn CV boot. I didnt see any rips in the boot but I also didnt go sticking my hand in the muck to feel it out. I need to pull the axle to investigate further. Talking to a friend of mine, he thinks its dumb to take an axle out thats been used for 126K and then put it back into service, providing its still technically good. I am all about good maintenance but I dont see the harm. I dont know how long these things typically last though. I would just hate to take a good OE axle a replace it with some questionable quality aftermarket axle if I dont need to. OE axles are not cheap either. What say you?
Replace CV axles based on mileage?
- Thread starter E150GT
- Start date
Under no circumstances should you replace a good OE axle with a new aftermarket one. They are all garbage (with the exception of something like Raxles).
Pretty close. My old ECHO still has the original CV shafts although I did replace them at about 350k on the Sienna. The Honda has had them replaced too but I think it was only torn boots. I don’t recall on that one.
Agree on this also. I’m very passionate about quality axles, since my last vehicle seemed to chew through them haha. I bought a used OE axle (was already probably 10 years old and had like 60-70k miles on it), re-booted and re-greased it, and it lasted many years and miles. Was still in great shape when I sold the van last year.
I always wanted to buy a set of Raxles for my 2009 Accord but I couldn't get OK with spending that kind of coin. I am sure they're awesome.
Here is what I found.
You need to just get under there with a light and inspect the boot carefully. Some of the gobs lower left of photo make me think the boot is flinging grease, but impossible to say.
Order a new boot and get OEM if possible. Order an axle seal and then pull it out. I'd probably replace the seal for sure based on the photo.
You'll have to put on your big boy panties and touch the "muck"
Obviously you can use gloves
Order a new boot and get OEM if possible. Order an axle seal and then pull it out. I'd probably replace the seal for sure based on the photo.
You'll have to put on your big boy panties and touch the "muck"
Obviously you can use glovesI'm glad everyone is pretty much in agreement to not preemptively change out a perfectly good axle. I tell people all the time the factory parts are more often than not the best parts that vehicle will ever see.
Just hit 334,000 miles with the 07 camry, factory CV's, factory boots.
Just hit 334,000 miles with the 07 camry, factory CV's, factory boots.
I rebooted the CV's on my Jetta at something past 200k; the innards were just fine. Messy job but not that bad. [One had split and was spitting grease, I did the other 3 proactively.]
And given the complaints of aftermarket axles, worth the effort.
And given the complaints of aftermarket axles, worth the effort.
haha yeah for sure. I got no problem getting dirty. Last night was just not the time. I wanted to test out the impact and inspect my brakes. I gotta do a brake job this weekend and I can get dirty then.You need to just get under there with a light and inspect the boot carefully. Some of the gobs lower left of photo make me think the boot is flinging grease, but impossible to say.
Order a new boot and get OEM if possible. Order an axle seal and then pull it out. I'd probably replace the seal for sure based on the photo.
You'll have to put on your big boy panties and touch the "muck"
That needs a new inner boot.
I agree with everyone here who suggested to keep the original cv joints, just re-boot if necessary. I had an 93 Camry that I sold with 300,000 miles and they were still fine. Also I sold an 04 BMW 530i, albeit rear wheel drive, with original cv joints with over 240,000 miles and they were fine too. I know of many other cars with well over 200,000 miles with original cv joints.
OE axles are always going to be $$$. But even if I had to replace an axle, a used OE axle with a good boot is almost always going to be superior than a used new aftermarket axle. The joint itself will be superior on the OE, but usually the point of failure is the boot.
The biggest reason why aftermarket axles suck is because most of them are still using neoprene boots which are good for a few years tops. They degrade in the presence of oils/greases/ozone. No OE manufacturer uses neoprene anymore, they all go with a thermoplastic which should be good for the life of the vehicle. If the OE axle springs a leak, the best approach is to source replacement thermoplastic boots and reboot it ASAP.
The biggest reason why aftermarket axles suck is because most of them are still using neoprene boots which are good for a few years tops. They degrade in the presence of oils/greases/ozone. No OE manufacturer uses neoprene anymore, they all go with a thermoplastic which should be good for the life of the vehicle. If the OE axle springs a leak, the best approach is to source replacement thermoplastic boots and reboot it ASAP.
Replace when a leak is noticed or when they start making noise.
I try to warranty aftermarket with failed boots on principle alone. I'd like to believe if we shove them back up their posteriors enough, they'll start providing better boots.
To date, I am losing the war......
Napa sells CV boots with a lifetime warranty. But of course, they are made from neoprene, so like clockwork they start failing after 1-2 years. Before I sold the vehicle, I had probably warrantied them 4-5 times. I had tried other brands too like EMPI, but same problem. It was almost not worth the hassle. Not only in terms of the labor to swap them out, but also having to deal with Napa because the guys would always make up a different excuse each time why they couldn't warranty them. Napa has seemingly become worse with warrantying lifetime items in general, but that's another story.
I got so good at doing CV axles I could probably get the axle in/out in 30 mins. Not include doing the reboot, which was the worst part of the job because of the cleaning involved.
I agree, it really is not worth the hassle.
I really don't know what most indys do here. I hate having to explain to people, "yeah, I can get you a shaft TODAY but I can't promise it'll last beyond 9 months, maybe a year and if you win the lottery: two years."
Or we can do OEM which is at least several days out and crazy expensive.
Or I can try to order OEM boots and you pay the labor for me to rebuild. But the rebuild route is VERY risky if it's been run very long without grease and/or in inclement conditions.
