Still have originals on my 21+yo Avalon. They look and feel fine on the outside plus no sign of internal collapse. Should I replace just because they are so old? Can still get factory hoses at $65 per hose. Can get Raybestos, Centric or Beck Arnley for $10-20 per hose. I would assume aftermarket would be ok? Thanks.
Replace Brake Hoses?
- Thread starter artbuc
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Depending on how you "feel" your brake pedal... Did your breakes loose its "boost" over those years?
If pedal is (too) soft...change them...
If pedal is (too) soft...change them...
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If they are not cracked, I would not replace them. I have hoses still in service originally from 87 and never had an issue. The old originals are likely better than Chinese made junk aftermarket hose assemblies..
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They will never be cracked from outside...
They are cracked internally.....and instead of braking.....you are inflating baloon....
They are cracked internally.....and instead of braking.....you are inflating baloon....
What about aftermarket? Raybestos Element vs Centric vs Beck Arnley? I realize BA just reboxes so they are a crap shoot.
21yr old car in PA, I'd be looking at the hard lines. Especially where the lines are clipped to chassis.They catch debris=>rust. I'd say if you intend to keep the car, replace the hoses . 
Ten years is a long life for a brake hose. Time to replace them.
No real way to test/check them once they get that old. Obviously deep cracks indicate a need for replacement, but I’d hate to see them fail your next hard braking test by blowing. That would solve your brake dilemma quickly, of course, and your new car would have new hoses....
No real way to test/check them once they get that old. Obviously deep cracks indicate a need for replacement, but I’d hate to see them fail your next hard braking test by blowing. That would solve your brake dilemma quickly, of course, and your new car would have new hoses....
I would replace them at that age. I have older cars and ended up doing all of them just for peace of mind even though they looked fine. I thought one car was kind of sluggish and it turned out to be the brakes dragging. I have used really cheap hoses before on beaters that weren't worth as much as I paid for the hoses and they were fine for years. Of course buy the best that you are willing to pay for, but never had issues with any brand personally. Maybe check out the Beck Arnley and see what you get? You can always return them.
Replace the front ones. They should be worse then the back ones. My cars are as old or older then yours and I only replaced the front ones. One of my cars is about to go to the JY with the original rear brake lines.
I have seen them cracked or split externally several times, it's called age. The issue when they fail internally is they will act like a one way check valve, keeping pressure applied to the caliper at all times.
Perhaps my perspective was shaped by living in New England. 10 year old lines had deep checks and cracks. I was changing them out on the basis of material degradation at that age, so now, I no longer trust them beyond that age.
Since other safety-critical rubber parts on cars have shorter recommended service lives, I think ten years is actually generous for something that is made of rubber and fabric. Something that could lead to a serious crash if it fails.
Fair enough--I haven't seen that, but I haven't looked closely during brake jobs to know that. Kinda makes sense, lots of flex and salt exposure, although I don't think UV exposure is that bad (nothing like what the tire wall sees).
Kinda argues for replacing a car at the end of 10 years--just ignore the clunks and noises, then send it off with dead struts, LCA bushings and all. Otherwise one has to invest in piles of tools and software to keep an older car going. I've been lucky so far with caliper changes and not needing software but it is starting to sound like you need a scan tool to do anything on these modern cars.
Kinda argues for replacing a car at the end of 10 years--just ignore the clunks and noises, then send it off with dead struts, LCA bushings and all. Otherwise one has to invest in piles of tools and software to keep an older car going. I've been lucky so far with caliper changes and not needing software but it is starting to sound like you need a scan tool to do anything on these modern cars.
Make sure you can actually get your bleeders open before you attempt this if not might as well get calipers too
But not a bad idea. Definitely don’t have too until one was to leak or fail
But not a bad idea. Definitely don’t have too until one was to leak or fail
No problem on the bleeders. I replace brake fluid and service calipers every two years.
Yeah, this will likely turn in to a bigger project that you think. Rust impacts everything there in PA winters, and the urea they spray on the roads is even worse.
Here's a test I used to do regularly on my old cars. While parked, I'd press very hard on the brake pedal to see if will take it. You'd be surprised at how many times I would blow a brake line damaged from rust.
Better to blow that line when parked than while in a panic stop situation, I always figured.
Here's a test I used to do regularly on my old cars. While parked, I'd press very hard on the brake pedal to see if will take it. You'd be surprised at how many times I would blow a brake line damaged from rust.
Better to blow that line when parked than while in a panic stop situation, I always figured.
Replace them at that age. Sunsong is less than $10ea from Rock Auto. Sunsong are Chinese but are a good company that makes a quality product.
You will find all the correct fittings, brackets and hoses in OE quality or darn close to it and clocked correctly. I use them a lot and have been totally satisfied with them.
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My mechanic replaced both the calipers & hoses when I had intermittently sticking front brakes. The hoses looked fine on the outside but he said at almost 20 yrs old, they can break apart internally and contribute to seizing calipers. IIRC, he used the Sunsong hoses Trav mentioned.
As suggested I checked steel lines. They are 99% perfect except one small section near the driver side rear wheel, near the end of the tray that supports and protects brake and evap lines. Both lines make two quick 90 degree bends and are largely unprotected by the plastic support tray in that one spot. Both lines are blistering. External rust usually looks much worse than it is but no way to tell how deep the pits may be. Would be a major pita to make a repair in that spot. I was hoping this car would go out with me but maybe not. No other problems worth mentioning so maybe I will explained repairing or replacing steel lines.
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