Removing Carbon From Heads

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I have very high compression in a Ford 2.8L (150's dry/180's wet) and suspect carbon buildup in the heads. What can I run thru the fuel that will safely remove it?

I know that I can drip water thru the carb at high ilde but this may cause other problems.
 
I just bought two 1 pt. cans. It says to add 1/3 to 1/2 pint into the intake of a running warm engine, key-off for 5 minutes, then restart and watch the smoke.

How many times should I do this? Can I do it back-to-back, or should I drive it in-between?

For the crankcase, it says to add 7.5 oz per 5 qts (or ~1/2 the can). How long do I run with it in there before an oil change?

[ January 02, 2005, 02:43 PM: Message edited by: fdunford ]
 
well after you apply the seafoam and wait 5 mins, you should start it and take a nice drive with your foot to the floor till the white stuff goes away.

do it as many times as you like.

i kept doing it until it eventually stopped smoking.

and then changed the oil.

i don't add it to the oil anymore.
 
See what has been called "the MolaSoak", Molakules (member #59) recipe for de-carboning.

I have used it several times, now, on a 31, 24 and 5 year old car, and it is a good start to the long-term process. I last used MOPAR COMBUSTION CHAMBER CLEANER, soaked each cylinder of a 3.5L Oldmobile V6 ("Shortstar", in honor of its Northstar architecture).

My folks bought this car with about 75k on it (now has 82k), and oil consumption is unacceptable at 750-1000 miles/quart.

After plugs were removed, 2-ozs of LUBE CONTROL were allowed to soak pistons for several hours. Little remained. I went out and fogged the neighborhood afterwards.

Car will have ARX cleanup done after several thousand miles of LC/FP cleaning.

It has worked well for me in a 185-190 psi Ford 6, and a 120 psi Chrysler V8 383 highly sensitive to todays cat-**** gasoline.

Directions are in an old post. Soak each cylinder with 3-4 ounces of LC, turn over engine manually after about an hour, and let sit overnight. (Remove any not soaked through rings prior to startup). Install new sparkplugs after running at high idle for 20-minutes next day, and change oil and filter.

Continued use of LC and FUEL POWER will keep problem in check and should gradually lessen it.

I also use the LC soak in our '01 Jeep L6-242 annually prior to ARX cleanup. Motor is better than new with 90k now approaching. Zero oil consumption even with 8k+ oil change intervals.
 
per Molakule

quote:

Originally posted by MolaKule:

The "MOLASOKE" for pistons and rings involves removing the sparkplugs and pouring in about 2-3 oz. of LC into each cylinder and letting it soak for at least an hour.

Then take a 1/2" or 3/4" drive ratchet wrench with the proper socket and turn your crankshaft 1 revolution very slowly. Do NOT use the starter to turn crankshaft.

Let soak some more overnight and then shine a light into the cylinders to make sure the LC has run past the rings or you may have hydrolock. Replace plugs and start engine outside.


 
The cheapest way is the use of water slowly squirted or sprayed through the intake (carb or throttle body) Warm engine first. To prove my water theory, look at any engine that has a blown head gasket or cracked head, you will find the heads, valves etc. are clean or carbon free. Water injection has been around for years, and is still used.
 
Valvtect has couple good products made for outboards. I was using OMC "tuneup" till I found this stuff, it seem to work alot better. Never used it on a 4 stroke though, but sure it would be fine.
 
Yeah, seriously, if my car had less than 250psi compression I'd get worried.

Anyway, what does a piston soak accomplish that, say, AutoRx will not? What benefits does a piston soak have?
 
Anyway, what does a piston soak accomplish that, say, AutoRx will not?


The piston soak will be in the combustion chamber and on top of the pistons. Auto-Rx is designed to clean the oil lubricated parts of the engine.

smile.gif
 
If the engine isn't pinging or running poorly, there's no reason to get all worried about that much cylinder pressure in that engine. Part of it comes from running a rather mild camshaft profile, and to me it sounds like it's running just fine if all cylinders are of equal pressure and you're not consuming much oil.
 
quote:

Originally posted by 59 Vetteman:
Anyway, what does a piston soak accomplish that, say, AutoRx will not?


The piston soak will be in the combustion chamber and on top of the pistons. Auto-Rx is designed to clean the oil lubricated parts of the engine.

smile.gif


I must not have been thinking clearly, as thats pretty straightforward
smile.gif


Thank you for the information. What benefits would this have, anyway? Less detonation due to the carbon not heating the cylinders and better gas mileage?
 
quote:

Water Cylinder Decarbonization

Worked wonders for me.

I did this today after reading about it on another board & then running more searches here. I am pretty much a noob, and when I initially heard about purposely sucking water into an engine, it went against my logic. but with a little more reading, it made perfect sense & seemed like a great & virtually free cleaning method to start with.

did it on a 15 year old EFI Mitsu motor w/140k that had bad valve seals & burned oil for who knows how long before I got it & replaced them & took care of all the neglected maintenance(last year).

found a funnel with the perfect sized hole, fit it onto the brake booster vac line & used distilled water in a spray bottle. one hand on the throttle, the other was misting away into the funnel until it consumed 1/2 the bottle(~15-20 mins).

I wish I had taken compression readings before & after, but did not think of it until I was done.
rolleyes.gif
 
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