redline water wetter?

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I had a 91 Camaro RS that had an overheating problem. What a PITA.

I tried WW with my 50/50 mix and found that it helped a lot.

Regardless of what others may say, it helped me.
 
Its useful if you have a race vehicle that takes no coolant, just distilled water, and water wetter.

If your putting it in your daily driver chevy mailbu its not worth the money.
 
For all those expecting WaterWetter to make their car run cooler, you are going to be disappointed. If the cooling system is working correctly, the thermostat will maintain a constant temperature.

Also, please read the bottle carefully. The temperature drops described are clearly based on a radiator fill with NO antifreeze.

Since most of us use antifreeze, the way to avoid the sludge problems is to use the Diesel WaterWetter which does not have added antifreeze components that may not mix with your personal choice of antifreeze. Too bad I have never seen it in any auto parts stores in my area.

Having said all that, I do use WaterWetter. The theory is that it helps distribute the heat from any hot spots better than the regular radiator mixture by itself. I have not been able to detect any difference, but I feel the theory is correct so I feel better doing it.

Emotional reactions don't require proof, so I am happy. Your contentment may vary.
 
" Also, please read the bottle carefully. "

Yep .
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" The temperature drops described are clearly based on a radiator fill with NO antifreeze. "

Nope .
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Sometimes its a really good idea to follow your own advice .
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Lets start where you made your first mistake , and deal with the rest later .

From the bottle of Red Line Water Wetter in my hand ;

50% GLYGOL / 50% WATER ......228 degrees F .
50/50 + WATER WETTER......... 220 degrees F .
.........WATER only ............... 220 degrees F
WATER + WATER WETTER.........202 degrees F




" Having said all that, I do use WaterWetter. The theory is that it helps distribute the heat from any hot spots better than the regular radiator mixture by itself. "

Well ....Sigh....... , sometimes even a blind squirrel finds a nut ........ so on this one , its your lucky day .
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" I have not been able to detect any difference, but I feel the theory is correct so I feel better doing it. "

Really ? just how exactly did you attempt to " detect " these differences ? Surely not just by observing your temp. indicator ? I mean with your engineering job/background you wouldn't make that kind of silly mistake , right ?
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I don't feel the WW is doing it's job because you see a difference in temp on the guage. It causes the water to bond better with the internal surfaces of the engine and carry heat to the radiator more efficiently. The thermostat is still going to open and close as before, but maybe stay open slightly more. It would be difficult to say WW lowers the temp because it really doesn't. What I've seen is this: My truck will detonate slightly and it seems to do it less with WW in the cooling system. Just what I've seen in my vehicle.
 
Most OEM dash gauges aren't accurate.

Engine temp is regulated by the thermostat and/or e-fan temp switch(ecu). So, temp won't change with an additive. But, if you exceed the limits of your cooling system(vehicle, weather, and mod depedent), you will benefit from an additive.

If you're running no thermostat(washer restrictor), and push the cooling system, you will notice different temps with different ratios and additives.

Most of the additives out there have info on their websites. They help keep the cooling system clean, prevent foaming, prevent cavitation, prevent hot spots, improve heat transfer, reduce vapor from boiling........

I think that the temp issue is over argued online. Anyone want to measure BTU absorbtion into the coolant and BTU shedding by the radiator?

I believe that water wetter works well. I've used it for years. It seems to reduce pinging/detonation tendencies in the summer. Cars with OEM marginal cooling systems seem to have cooling issues reduced. And, now that its winter, I swear that my vehicles cabin heats up quicker. To me, if the heater core can shed more BTU's to warm me in the winter, then the radiator in the summer will too, keeping the engine happy.
 
I think that the temp issue is over argued online. Anyone want to measure BTU absorbtion into the coolant and BTU shedding by the radiator?

The more interesting and useful thing to measure are internal engine temps esp. critical metal components/areas .

Good observations and post .
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You just about have it.

Yes , you increase the available heat throw of the radiator/heater core , etc . Much more importantly ,you increase the " throw " by the heads , block , IM , etc .


The main reason why this is more important is because this is where 70% ( typical ) of the waste heat not accounted for by the exhaust system is transferred ie "engine thermal radiation " not radiator/HC ( 30% ) .

The fundamental concept here that no one seems to get is that although your coolant temp remains constant the fluid is transferring more heat from the metal within the engine (esp cylinder heads) to outside the engine via increased efficiency of metal to liquid to metal to air by the engine itself - never mind what the thermostat and radiator and fan are doing .

This is exactly why NYE ,you , me , and anybody else whose paying attention notices things such as less knock etc with no other system change ,ie same coolant temp .

I don't think its over discussed correctly - but I will agree it is over discussed incorrectly .
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Slightly oversimplified - with water wetter ;

more/faster heat in/ more/faster heat out - same/ lower coolant temp.

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Even if most OEM gauges seems to be innacurate, my dad's Sunfire ECOtec seems to reach operating temperatures faster and to be just a tad lower with Water Wetter!!

Marko!
 
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