has anyone used this stuff?
redline water wetter?
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I use it in everything. It's good stuff.
I used a lot of WW in diesels (and gas) to prevent cavitation erosion and corrosion/rust, and to increase heat transfer out of the engine. I think it worked well on all counts.
I am a long-time, satisfied RL customer, but I will give one caveat about WW: it is such an effective surfactant that it will find any weak seal or hole waiting to happen, which I have witnessed in heat exchangers, hose connection points, and oil coolers. I have not seen it get past any head gaskets. So before everyone jumps on me for accusing WW of always causing leaks, it is just my experience that it can cause them. On the good side, refer to the benefits I experienced above.
I am a long-time, satisfied RL customer, but I will give one caveat about WW: it is such an effective surfactant that it will find any weak seal or hole waiting to happen, which I have witnessed in heat exchangers, hose connection points, and oil coolers. I have not seen it get past any head gaskets. So before everyone jumps on me for accusing WW of always causing leaks, it is just my experience that it can cause them. On the good side, refer to the benefits I experienced above.
Its good stuff - street , strip , or track .
Does everything they say and depending , even more .This is contrary to the naysayers common responses ( who typically have no useable long term exp. with the product and , just as often , want to sell/recommend something else ). The other thing you will hear (usually same people ) is that it is only worth considering for race/pure water applications which again , is pure B.S. .
The " main benefit " for most applications is reduced ( see bottle label ) in almost all operating situations as antifreeze concentration is increased - so what - you still have a very useable improvement in basic cooling system/fluid function . In addition , you are going to make your hotspots cooler and if you have them , your cold spots a little warmer , one variant of which is to help even out your temps between block and head , which is always a good thing . This is esp. true if you have a poorly designed , iron block , aluminum head combination thats a sludger and is really hard on headgaskets . There are other operational considerations , dos and don'ts ,benefits and some ways to make ineffective as well . I don't leave home without it .
Does everything they say and depending , even more .This is contrary to the naysayers common responses ( who typically have no useable long term exp. with the product and , just as often , want to sell/recommend something else ). The other thing you will hear (usually same people ) is that it is only worth considering for race/pure water applications which again , is pure B.S. .
The " main benefit " for most applications is reduced ( see bottle label ) in almost all operating situations as antifreeze concentration is increased - so what - you still have a very useable improvement in basic cooling system/fluid function . In addition , you are going to make your hotspots cooler and if you have them , your cold spots a little warmer , one variant of which is to help even out your temps between block and head , which is always a good thing . This is esp. true if you have a poorly designed , iron block , aluminum head combination thats a sludger and is really hard on headgaskets . There are other operational considerations , dos and don'ts ,benefits and some ways to make ineffective as well . I don't leave home without it .
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I've been using it in both my vehicles for years and they seem to like it. I HAVE seen reduced operating temps with WW.
I used it in two vehicles. A 95 Firebird 5.7 and a 92 Ranger 3.0. Both ran a 50-50 mix of anti-freeze. After two years both had a film like sediment in the reservoir, which never came back after a flush and refill. I have heard great things about it in race cars running mostly water, but doubt it should be ran in a street car with a coolant mix. Just my .02
Id like something to help cool my sonoma 2.2l off, seems like those little motors run hot.
Yep , I wouldn't doubt it did on those two specific vehicles .
And depending on what is in a cooling system at time of application it can put out a lot more , which is one of the reasons I really like the stuff - it has a decent cleaning action . It will remove basically everything that isn't " glued " in that it gets decent exposure to over time .
In your two vehicles listed , there are four common possibles of stuff removed (ie settled in your overflow tank ) that come to mind . You may have seen all four or one , most likely at least two . From your description , it doesn't sound like much total material in any case .( In fact , completely independent of this product , that " sounds " within the realm of normal coolant performance under any number of scenerios ).
1. Any " stopleak type " product ,- self or factory installed .
2. Normal amounts of left behind manufacturing material ( Sometimes you can also have abnormally high amounts as well ) . A relevant example of this occurs with a " sand casted " iron block or head thats new - you will always get a certian amount of residual sand pulled out as it goes through its first 1000 - 5000+ heat cycles .Any surfecant will speed this up and water wetter is no exception .
3. Mineral deposits even from demineralized or deionized water . You will have a lot more of this from tap water .
4. There is a fourth effect that you can experience sometimes . It involves silicated coolants . I'm going to delibrately not type the 10 pages or so required to do justice here . There will be no lose of accuracy in practical terms because of this .
Its perfectly normal with this product to have a slightly higher and faster rate of silicate settling in the overflow tank .
This is mostly determined by the silicate concentration you started with .All an acceptable change in regards to this type of settling means is that the WW is working . In a sense its adjusting your silicate level . There is no bad news here . Save the fluid and clear the tank if you don't like the appearence - I do .
There is more , a lot more , and there are circumstances once you start using WW where its best to keep adding WW every 12MO./15K until you reach your next coolant change out date .
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Laga,
If you ever do go and try it again " just keep going " the next time . What I mean is that typically , ( again with your specifics in mind ) after 2 - 4 minor overflow tank cleanings you will stop seeing " scum " in the over flow tank .
FWIW , you can get a similiar although weaker effect w/o the product as well . Using distilled water in your preferred 50/50 mix will do it , running slightly lower antifreeze concentrations , or doing both together goes in the same direction as far as practical result .
My personal favorite is a true DEX , distilled , and WW at as low a concentration of DEX as " optimal " for that specific installation in its specific environment . If you are going from a green its not for the faint hearted .
None of this is necc . in any sense of the word - I just like to dial in my coolant .
If you ever do go and try it again " just keep going " the next time . What I mean is that typically , ( again with your specifics in mind ) after 2 - 4 minor overflow tank cleanings you will stop seeing " scum " in the over flow tank .
FWIW , you can get a similiar although weaker effect w/o the product as well . Using distilled water in your preferred 50/50 mix will do it , running slightly lower antifreeze concentrations , or doing both together goes in the same direction as far as practical result .
My personal favorite is a true DEX , distilled , and WW at as low a concentration of DEX as " optimal " for that specific installation in its specific environment . If you are going from a green its not for the faint hearted .
None of this is necc . in any sense of the word - I just like to dial in my coolant .
i noticed it too. i change my freeze every year and i add a bottle of ww.i use xerex g-05 at first there was some scum and then...a couple of changes after no scum at all that goes for both vehicles...the newest 98 expy has no scum at all.
I used it on an older GMC truck that I had installed a digital temp gauge on. It did drop the temp about 4 degrees. I also use a 40% antifreeze/60% water mix. I live in south Texas and it doesn't get cold enough to need a stronger mix than that. I am currently using it in my 92 Corolla. I have used it in a couple other vehicles and have never had any adverse problems. It wil work best in water, but WILL work with anitfreeze despite what has been posted here (I have proven it works in my GMC truck). If you want to experiment, get some type of digital gauge to get an accurate temp reading. Flush your system and fill with water only and take a temp reading. Then drain it all and add the WW and check the temp.
bc22 ,
thats similar to what I used to do , on most . Now I just remove enough coolant ( from radiator ) for the correct amount of WW and freshen up the bottle .
I'm not running this on anything newer than a 2000 for a variety of reasons but on the oldies , its a nice low effort way to go . Still change out at the 3/ 5 year point . ( Needlessly from inspection ) Really like not having/wanting to clean the bottle once things settle down .
thats similar to what I used to do , on most . Now I just remove enough coolant ( from radiator ) for the correct amount of WW and freshen up the bottle .
I'm not running this on anything newer than a 2000 for a variety of reasons but on the oldies , its a nice low effort way to go . Still change out at the 3/ 5 year point . ( Needlessly from inspection ) Really like not having/wanting to clean the bottle once things settle down .
Yep to all that and more
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I spend most of my time in Arizona and some of the other in Austin . One of the other things I like about WW is the freedom it gives to play with concentration ratio and avoid problems .
That 40/60 is my upper limit almost everywhere in general , and I like to go ( carefully ) below that in the hotter climes . ( I'm willing to adjust as desirable/needed ) .
With the way engine compartments are " tight " these days and the way many of them move air , sometimes you really have to watch how the extra heat you " throw " effects everything else ( Long term running [ street ] and competition ) ) . And on others , you want to consider how you redistibute within the engine itself .
I spend most of my time in Arizona and some of the other in Austin . One of the other things I like about WW is the freedom it gives to play with concentration ratio and avoid problems .
That 40/60 is my upper limit almost everywhere in general , and I like to go ( carefully ) below that in the hotter climes . ( I'm willing to adjust as desirable/needed ) .
With the way engine compartments are " tight " these days and the way many of them move air , sometimes you really have to watch how the extra heat you " throw " effects everything else ( Long term running [ street ] and competition ) ) . And on others , you want to consider how you redistibute within the engine itself .
One must maintain one's priorities .
However , you still have room .
If a budget limit is involved , the following will maximise your utility ;
1)Consumable antifreeze of the milder sort : go ahead , buy the Chimay .
2)Nonconsumable antifreeze/mixers of the automotive sort : Also go first class , in this case , say , WW .
3)Engine Oil : With whatever is left over , buy the best possible lubricant for the specific vehicle being serviced . There is always decent oil on sale somewhere for 3.00 $ or less .
As an example , Take the money you just spent on Redline Oil .
On paper , take the same money , buy the Chimay , WW , and PP/ AA2:1 or equivalent .
See what I mean ?
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