Redline 5w-30 - Toyota Sienna

[slider]

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quote:

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Originally posted by Rexman:
I think Patman has a good point here. If you can confirm that you're getting next to no wear at 5k intervals, what more could you ask for? Having almost no wear is a pretty happy state for your engine to be in.

If it was me, I'd be doing some celebrating and break out the champagne!

As for lasting 800k, you can always buy a case of Zaino for the body and Lexol for the interior, and enjoy not making car payments for the rest of your natural life!

[/QB]

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I wonder about MY body!

No payments. I paid cash for the van.

OK, I'll doing a 5K. At least a sample with no TBN. But I do wonder if it's a bit like chasing rainbows.

 

[Cujet]

Y'all are crazy! The wear metals are ending up in the sludge. Of course the drained oil is clean

Chris

 

[slider]

quote:

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Originally posted by Cujet:
Y'all are crazy! The wear metals are ending up in the sludge. Of course the drained oil is clean

Chris

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I agree. It's a great way to get a new engine under Toyota's 100K, 10 year sludge warrnaty.

 

[JohnBrowning]

Guys I think one this to remember is that his first UOA came after his third OCI on Redline. Most people on this site use the oil once see numbers they do not like and then go back to Mobil 1. He also did an Auto-Rx treatment to get alot of the stuff that might have been left behind by previous oils.

I belive that Redline can do this well in almost any application. Redlines cleaning action kind of stacks the deck against itself. If everyone did the Auto-Rx then waited to the second UOA on Redline for UOA we would all see a large difference between baseline and Redline.

The fact that it does this well in a known sludge monster says it all!!

 

[Bror Jace]

Patman: “I'd be interested in seeing you go back to a 5k interval again, and seeing if the wear numbers (or lack of wear!!) repeats itself.”

You’re just looking for another trophy run, eh?

Repeatability is the surest form of a “check” in testing … but it’s also expensive. I think slider’s approach is more practical. He’s using an extremely expensive oil in a motor known to be hard on the stuff so he’s interested in (moderately) extended drain intervals to help offset the cost. And as long as wear is exceptionally low, that’s fine.

slider, as I just said, there’s no serious “problem” but you ran the oil until its TBN fell below 2. The rule of thumb is that the oil should be above this mark … but as I said, it appears you did no harm. If you were anywhere other than Kal-EE-Forn-EE-yah I’d cut back the interval a touch, especially during winter months where internal corrosion seems to be an issue in many other parts of North America.

“The car probably needs new plugs. (it still has the original ND irridiums) I think this probably has something to do with the fuel in the oil.”

If so, you should have noticed an increase in fuel consumption … unless you don’t track this carefully. Did you?

--- Bror Jace

 

[Patman]

True, it would be nice to see another trophy run like the 5k one!

But in reality I was looking at it from the bigger picture. If he goes back to another 5k run and sees 0ppm for iron and lead, but gets 6ppm and 1ppm for the 10k runs, then even though those 10k numbers are still incredibly awesome, it does show that the engine is getting more wear on the 10k runs, so perhaps the oil isn't doing as good of a job from the 5-10k mark (or the 6-10, or 7-10k mark) That's all I'm getting at.

I'm planning on doing 6k runs in my Firebird, but I will also be doing midway samples at 3k next summer too. If I found that my wear rates were more than double on the 6k mark compared to the 3k mark, I'd probably be inclined to drop my OCI back to 5k or 4k just to see where the level of higher wear kicks in.

Of course this is just me being incredibly anal, since in the case of Slider's numbers at the 6k mark, his engine would probably still last 800k with wear numbers like that!

 

[friendly_jacek]

Interesting,
Fe reported here (0ppm) is lower than every Redline VOA posted on this forum (2-4ppm). So much for the lab accuracy.

 

[Bror Jace]

JB: "Guys, I think one thing to remember is that his first UOA came after his third OCI with Red Line. Most people on this site use the oil once see numbers they do not like and then go back to Mobil 1. He also did an Auto-Rx treatment to get a lot of the stuff that might have been left behind by previous oils. I believe that Red Line can do this well in almost any application. Red Line's cleaning action kind of stacks the deck against itself. If everyone did the Auto-Rx then waited to the second UOA on Red Line for UOA we would all see a large difference between baseline and Red Line."

Welcome, JB to the ranks of the "Red Line Apologists!"

We're a small but vocal group who believes in this stuff.

Honestly, I think you're correct. But others are a hard sell and I can think of one Integra driver who posted two Red Line used oil analysis in a row and they didn't show an improvement as I predicted. In fact, they went the other way somewhat. Pyromaster maybe?

Of course, the car saw significant track duty which is a considerable variable.

I am running Schaeffer S7000 5W30 right now. I changed my oil a couple weeks ago and will run it until around Thanksgiving and then run Red Line 5W30 all winter long. Hopefully, since the car is still very new and has had a handful of short-duration oil changes, the Red Line will get a clean start and I'll get a good result. However, with the way I drive (a mix of high-RPM and occasional "lugging" the motor on the highway), I'm not expecting a trophy result.

--- Bror Jace

 

[JohnBrowning]

Bror Jace, I would not worry about it. If the car is low millage and relatively clean then use the first Redline OCI as cleaning. You could always run some 131 or LC through it as a flush prior to adding the Redline if you think that deposits are going to be an issue. Wait till warm weather do another run with Redline and then sample. This way you can compare a warm weather baseline to your Redline OCI. Buy waiting until the second run hopefully most of the cleaning will be done.

I am still woundering how my Camry is going to fair with 10W30 Chevron in it. Seeing how it just hit 3000 miles I am expecting plenty of acclerated wear to show up in the oil.

I broke this one in useing Moto Tunes recomendations as much as possable. I drained the OEM oil at 78 miles, then again at 775 miles, and I will drain again right before winter probably. I am undecided wich oil I am going to try in it for winter. I am strongly considering Redline 5W30. I will do the same thing that I mentioned above.

My guess is that with an engine as new as mine any wear would have to be contributed to break in. I can not imagine that their would be much to clean.

The oil in the car right now is going to be my base line!

 

[jason07-1zzfe]

slider, did you use the AutoRX with the Red Line? And how long did you run it?

 

[slider]

quote:

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Originally posted by Jason Troxell:
slider, did you use the AutoRX with the Red Line? And how long did you run it?

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RX wasn not used on this particular run, but on the previous one. It was in for about 1200 miles.

 

[jason07-1zzfe]

That's what I meant. Just checking that you didn't switch to mineral to use RX. Curious how well it works with RL. Thanks

[ September 05, 2003, 11:53 AM: Message edited by: Jason Troxell ]

 

[buster]

I wish we had more used oil analysis of Redline. I went to there webpage and by the looks of it, they do make the best high end oils. There specs on the 10w30 are incredible. NOAK of 5% and mostly ester base stock. Expensive but worth it I believe with many high end cars.