Redline 2 stroke racing oil.
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My only comment would be whether it's lowash add pack will give you troubles (like plug fouling) trolling or idling for extended periods. Outboards usually use a ashless package. Another concern would be storage, I'd run a regular tcw3 oil and/or fog when you put the boat up for any long period.
RR oil has a few known issues. Brass corrosion in carburator internal parts is one of them. Also, very poor corrosion prevention internal to the engine. There have been many complaints from snomobile owners using that oil. Engines were ruined due to internal corrosion.
I personally lost 2 engines due to RR oil. A call to Dave at Redline confirms the corrosion issue! I think it is really designed for Kart engines that get overhauled at the 10 hour mark.
Chris
I personally lost 2 engines due to RR oil. A call to Dave at Redline confirms the corrosion issue! I think it is really designed for Kart engines that get overhauled at the 10 hour mark.
Chris
I know all about storage etc. Been tournament fishing forever. And I have always run TC-W3. I know people on the tournament trail that use Redline oil and they like it and claim more power. They know litle about oil so I thought I'd ask BITOG. I run oil injected outboards and no trolling. It's either WOT or off.
For WOT apps, Redline is probably one of the finer oils for protecting a running engine. I ran RL in my MX bike for a while. The brass jets in the carb became very tarnished, and jetting began to become unstable at the 40 hour mark. OTOH, RL had very low measurable wear. Ring end gap only changed .004 over 40 hours, the cylinder had, for all practical purposes, had the same measurements at 40 hours, that it did at 0 hours. RL is lousy at storage. Run a regular petroleum oil for your last fishing run, and fog the engine for storage. The claim of more power is pretty abstract. In my particular case, the dyno showed no power difference between RL, Castrol TTS, and Motorex racing. More power was made on the imported Shell Advance Racing, and on Castrol A747. The Shell was a great offering, but the small power increase gained wasn't worth the cost of importing the oil. A747 was a filthy oil because of it's bean content. It's claim to fame is strength for air cooled apps, but if you don't mind decoking the ports, power valves, and exhaust, A747 is the shiznit, well at least for vintage bikes, and for conjuring up memories of days gone by with that sweet bean oil smell.
what in the world makes the RR corrosive to brass? is there a VOA around for this stuff?
I run it in my Echo weed wacker, 7-8 years old, used heavly and runs like new. I use about a gallon of premix a month and run the stuff at 80:1. I change the fuel filter, air filter and plug on a regular basis and the plugs alway look like new when I chuck them. I buy that maintenance kit and don't bother trying to save the plug when I need the air and fuel filters. I do a lot of heavy trimming and have worn out about 10 of the line dispensing heads but the gear drive for the straight shaft system is lubed with RL's CV lube and has never been replaced. Because of my experience with RL two local landscape company ownere have swithched to their products with good results. One of his jobs includes cutting back growth in a lake and he uses RL 2-cycle in the o-board motors and likes the results there, too. I think there are a lot of good 2-cycle oils on the market because of the recreational vehicle market. I don't know if there is a bad choice as log as you consider your application when choosing.
O.K. here it is.. I posted a tread - (390 mile tow) and you might have seen it. Well the BassBoat I was using was the outbored oil I was testing. Redline 2 Stroke Racing oil, which is what this tread is about. Redline line 2 Stroke racing oil is aswsome... I performed great.. But I will continue to use Pennzoil Premium plus due to cost and the Pennz it great stuff. Redline 2 stroke racing oil is approved. !!!!!!!!!
alot of 2 stroke racing oils forus on people who compete in races, not fishermen and backwoods atv rider or snomobilers.
the oils are designed to protect the engine under the demanding conditions of a race. things like anti corrosion, tarnishing, water absorbtion are not considered when blending these oils as they are not a concern to a guy racing since hes likely to inspect and rebuild his motor often.
i would use a more conventionsl oil (that doesnt mean dino). and leave the racing oil for the people who actually race.
a less agressive oil such as mobol m2t, pennzoil aircooled, castrol 2t, supertech, are formulated with anti corrosion properties that a typical user would like to have. those are the kind of oils that most people should be using.
pennzoil synthetic marine and mobil 2t are 2 good synthetic oils that will cover 99$ of the 2 stroke applications in the world.
personally i use supertech tcw3 for the boat and castrol 2t for the aircooled engines. but it doesnt matter what oil you use as long as you have the right oil for youre application.
the oils are designed to protect the engine under the demanding conditions of a race. things like anti corrosion, tarnishing, water absorbtion are not considered when blending these oils as they are not a concern to a guy racing since hes likely to inspect and rebuild his motor often.
i would use a more conventionsl oil (that doesnt mean dino). and leave the racing oil for the people who actually race.
a less agressive oil such as mobol m2t, pennzoil aircooled, castrol 2t, supertech, are formulated with anti corrosion properties that a typical user would like to have. those are the kind of oils that most people should be using.
pennzoil synthetic marine and mobil 2t are 2 good synthetic oils that will cover 99$ of the 2 stroke applications in the world.
personally i use supertech tcw3 for the boat and castrol 2t for the aircooled engines. but it doesnt matter what oil you use as long as you have the right oil for youre application.
Originally Posted By: Master ACiD
alot of 2 stroke racing oils forus on people who compete in races, not fishermen and backwoods atv rider or snomobilers.
the oils are designed to protect the engine under the demanding conditions of a race. things like anti corrosion, tarnishing, water absorbtion are not considered when blending these oils as they are not a concern to a guy racing since hes likely to inspect and rebuild his motor often.
i would use a more conventionsl oil (that doesnt mean dino). and leave the racing oil for the people who actually race.
a less agressive oil such as mobol m2t, pennzoil aircooled, castrol 2t, supertech, are formulated with anti corrosion properties that a typical user would like to have. those are the kind of oils that most people should be using.
pennzoil synthetic marine and mobil 2t are 2 good synthetic oils that will cover 99$ of the 2 stroke applications in the world.
personally i use supertech tcw3 for the boat and castrol 2t for the aircooled engines. but it doesnt matter what oil you use as long as you have the right oil for youre application.
Ditto! Racing oils are often formulated for maximum friction reduction without the add pack needed for everyday operation for the recreational products (boater/snomobiler/ etc). Buy the product manufactured for whatever you are doing. Any oil marketed by the manufacturers of the equipment should work fine. They are re-packaged by the refiners. Mercury, Bombardier, Yamaha, and Suzuki are not in the oil business! In addition to the above listed products, let me add two more excellent products. Phillips Injex, and Synjex are both great products. I used to buy Injex from http://www.harveyoil.com Their price was very competitive. Enjoy!
alot of 2 stroke racing oils forus on people who compete in races, not fishermen and backwoods atv rider or snomobilers.
the oils are designed to protect the engine under the demanding conditions of a race. things like anti corrosion, tarnishing, water absorbtion are not considered when blending these oils as they are not a concern to a guy racing since hes likely to inspect and rebuild his motor often.
i would use a more conventionsl oil (that doesnt mean dino). and leave the racing oil for the people who actually race.
a less agressive oil such as mobol m2t, pennzoil aircooled, castrol 2t, supertech, are formulated with anti corrosion properties that a typical user would like to have. those are the kind of oils that most people should be using.
pennzoil synthetic marine and mobil 2t are 2 good synthetic oils that will cover 99$ of the 2 stroke applications in the world.
personally i use supertech tcw3 for the boat and castrol 2t for the aircooled engines. but it doesnt matter what oil you use as long as you have the right oil for youre application.
Ditto! Racing oils are often formulated for maximum friction reduction without the add pack needed for everyday operation for the recreational products (boater/snomobiler/ etc). Buy the product manufactured for whatever you are doing. Any oil marketed by the manufacturers of the equipment should work fine. They are re-packaged by the refiners. Mercury, Bombardier, Yamaha, and Suzuki are not in the oil business! In addition to the above listed products, let me add two more excellent products. Phillips Injex, and Synjex are both great products. I used to buy Injex from http://www.harveyoil.com Their price was very competitive. Enjoy!
Guys I have to say i've run just about everything in my high perf two stroke jetskis over the years from conventional to blends to castor race oil to syn race oil, and for rec use, I have to say the new amsoil interceptor 2stroke oil is the cleanest/lowest smoke oil I've come across. I've run it since new in a few of my machines, and you can literally wipe your finger in the exhaust port and it's not black. The amsoil dominator is truly for race engines, and if you dont have high heat/rpm/compression it's not going to burn cleanly.
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