Redline 0W-30 / 10000km Oil Lift on 2.7liter Land Cruiser Prado

[jellyfish]

Good day everyone, I have just recently taken a UOA sample of my petrol driven 2.7liter Land Cruiser Prado (Singapore Registered Vehicle) something equivalent to the Lexus GX460 in USA, with 60000km on the ODO, the Redline 0W-30 oil was used for 2 OCI (10000km OCI and sample taken on the last OCI to ensure no cross contaminant from oil supplied by dealer), and previously it was running on unknown oil by the dealer providing free servicing, since the change to Redline the engine felt more responsive, since this sample was taken, I have switched the Redline oil to 5w-20 as per instructed in the owners manual.

My vehicle is a daily driver which occasionally sees long distance overlanding duties from Singapore to Thailand in hilly condition, fully loaded in our humid and hot climate where the avg temp here is 34Deg C upwards. I`m generally pretty light footed, but when overlanding the vehicle does feel the strain of the load due to its small engine capacity and is noticed the vehicle revs pretty high to keep the speed up when going uphill.

The vehicle has totally stock engine, genuine air filter (10000km old), genuine engine oil filter (Replaced every 10000km) and spark plugs in them (Yet to replace) and the only "upgrade" is a Hayden 679 Gearbox oil cooler and changing to Redline 0W-30 oil. I also have a Scanguage installed to monitor my Coolant temp (Avg 83deg C and max I noticed was 92deg C), Gearbox temp (Avg 68deg C and max I noticed was 89deg C).

As there is a company providing a UOA testing (SGS Singapore) I`ve decided to send my UOA to them.

I`m kinda happy with the result that came back on the 0W-30, and keen to see the UOA results on the 5W-20 in time to come. Base on the result, the oxidation is kinda high, but need your kind counsel on any issues I might need to keep my eyes on.

1) How long more can I run the oil to nearly fully utilize the engine oil without sacrificing protection vs performance
2) What can I do to address the oxidation issue or its not something to be concerned about?
3) Any other advise.

 

[JavierH19]

Looks great. That 2.7 is wearing perfectly. Though i wouldn't say it's oxidizing. The oil is within range for a 30 grade and hasn't crossed into a 40 which would mean oxidative thickening. Fuel is 0.00 though there has to be at least trace amounts. The TBN is 6 while the TAN is 4.4. It becomes a problem once the TAN matches or exceeds your TBN which it isn't.

I wish we got that Toyota badged 4 cyl Lexus gx here in the states. I do see them down in Mexico sometimes, still rare because of the price. Diesel and gas hilux's are everywhere though.

 

[jellyfish]

Looks great. That 2.7 is wearing perfectly. Though i wouldn't say it's oxidizing. The oil is within range for a 30 grade and hasn't crossed into a 40 which would mean oxidative thickening. Fuel is 0.00 though there has to be at least trace amounts. The TBN is 6 while the TAN is 4.4. It becomes a problem once the TAN matches or exceeds your TBN which it isn't.

I wish we got that Toyota badged 4 cyl Lexus gx here in the states. I do see them down in Mexico sometimes, still rare because of the price. Diesel and gas hilux's are everywhere though.

Thanks JavierH19 for the simple explanation for me to take note on.
Over here, it is the other way round, we do not have the Lexus GX460, but a small number of Landcruiser Prado mostly in 2.7Petrol, and even lesser of the 2.8Diesel running around in Singapore, as the Landcruiser cost north of S$275K over here, (Makes me cry to see those crazy prices in here)

 

[FZ1]

Good day everyone, I have just recently taken a UOA sample of my petrol driven 2.7liter Land Cruiser Prado (Singapore Registered Vehicle) something equivalent to the Lexus GX460 in USA, with 60000km on the ODO, the Redline 0W-30 oil was used for 2 OCI (10000km OCI and sample taken on the last OCI to ensure no cross contaminant from oil supplied by dealer), and previously it was running on unknown oil by the dealer providing free servicing, since the change to Redline the engine felt more responsive, since this sample was taken, I have switched the Redline oil to 5w-20 as per instructed in the owners manual.

My vehicle is a daily driver which occasionally sees long distance overlanding duties from Singapore to Thailand in hilly condition, fully loaded in our humid and hot climate where the avg temp here is 34Deg C upwards. I`m generally pretty light footed, but when overlanding the vehicle does feel the strain of the load due to its small engine capacity and is noticed the vehicle revs pretty high to keep the speed up when going uphill.

The vehicle has totally stock engine, genuine air filter (10000km old), genuine engine oil filter (Replaced every 10000km) and spark plugs in them (Yet to replace) and the only "upgrade" is a Hayden 679 Gearbox oil cooler and changing to Redline 0W-30 oil. I also have a Scanguage installed to monitor my Coolant temp (Avg 83deg C and max I noticed was 92deg C), Gearbox temp (Avg 68deg C and max I noticed was 89deg C).

As there is a company providing a UOA testing (SGS Singapore) I`ve decided to send my UOA to them.

I`m kinda happy with the result that came back on the 0W-30, and keen to see the UOA results on the 5W-20 in time to come. Base on the result, the oxidation is kinda high, but need your kind counsel on any issues I might need to keep my eyes on.

1) How long more can I run the oil to nearly fully utilize the engine oil without sacrificing protection vs performance
2) What can I do to address the oxidation issue or its not something to be concerned about?
3) Any other advise.

Wear looks good. The oil seems to be thickening, so you've maxed out the oci. Jmo

 

[twX]

Though i wouldn't say it's oxidizing. The oil is within range for a 30 grade and hasn't crossed into a 40 which would mean oxidative thickening.

It's technically gone up to a 40 grade, at 12.9 cST. It starts out as a thick 30-grade at 11.7 cST according to the data sheet, so it's not a huge increase, but I'd say it's definitely indicating oxidation.

Oil oxidates a lot more quickly at high oil temperatures. In that climate with a lot of hilly driving the oil is probably running pretty hot and the oxidation is probably a sign of that. The 5W-20 should be okay, but I would lean towards something thicker than a 20 grade, like a 5W-30 or 10W-30 in that climate. There's no reason to use a 0W.

 

[cptbarkey]

Good day everyone, I have just recently taken a UOA sample of my petrol driven 2.7liter Land Cruiser Prado (Singapore Registered Vehicle) something equivalent to the Lexus GX460 in USA, with 60000km on the ODO, the Redline 0W-30 oil was used for 2 OCI (10000km OCI and sample taken on the last OCI to ensure no cross contaminant from oil supplied by dealer), and previously it was running on unknown oil by the dealer providing free servicing, since the change to Redline the engine felt more responsive, since this sample was taken, I have switched the Redline oil to 5w-20 as per instructed in the owners manual.

My vehicle is a daily driver which occasionally sees long distance overlanding duties from Singapore to Thailand in hilly condition, fully loaded in our humid and hot climate where the avg temp here is 34Deg C upwards. I`m generally pretty light footed, but when overlanding the vehicle does feel the strain of the load due to its small engine capacity and is noticed the vehicle revs pretty high to keep the speed up when going uphill.

The vehicle has totally stock engine, genuine air filter (10000km old), genuine engine oil filter (Replaced every 10000km) and spark plugs in them (Yet to replace) and the only "upgrade" is a Hayden 679 Gearbox oil cooler and changing to Redline 0W-30 oil. I also have a Scanguage installed to monitor my Coolant temp (Avg 83deg C and max I noticed was 92deg C), Gearbox temp (Avg 68deg C and max I noticed was 89deg C).

As there is a company providing a UOA testing (SGS Singapore) I`ve decided to send my UOA to them.

I`m kinda happy with the result that came back on the 0W-30, and keen to see the UOA results on the 5W-20 in time to come. Base on the result, the oxidation is kinda high, but need your kind counsel on any issues I might need to keep my eyes on.

1) How long more can I run the oil to nearly fully utilize the engine oil without sacrificing protection vs performance
2) What can I do to address the oxidation issue or its not something to be concerned about?
3) Any other advise.

Hello sir, as a close cousin GX 460 owner, would love to see photos of your travels and vehicle sometime. It sounds like you have seen alot of pretty landscapes.

 

[JavierH19]

It's technically gone up to a 40 grade, at 12.9 cST. It starts out as a thick 30-grade at 11.7 cST according to the data sheet, so it's not a huge increase, but I'd say it's definitely indicating oxidation.

Oil oxidates a lot more quickly at high oil temperatures. In that climate with a lot of hilly driving the oil is probably running pretty hot and the oxidation is probably a sign of that. The 5W-20 should be okay, but I would lean towards something thicker than a 20 grade, like a 5W-30 or 10W-30 in that climate. There's no reason to use a 0W.

True but people have gotten voas on oil and compared to the PDS it can be +/- 1. But the testing equipment seems to over report viscosity much more than under report from many voas I've checked with PDS's. And all oils will technically oxidize a very little bit but it's only when the oxidation is actually notable and I don't see any notable oxidation. That's why I said it wasn't an issue, if we all had to change our oils once we saw the slightest bit of oxidation we would all be dumping at 2-3k miles again. But the TAN is below the TBN which is solid.

 

[fantastic]

Good day everyone, I have just recently taken a UOA sample of my petrol driven 2.7liter Land Cruiser Prado (Singapore Registered Vehicle) something equivalent to the Lexus GX460 in USA, with 60000km on the ODO, the Redline 0W-30 oil was used for 2 OCI (10000km OCI and sample taken on the last OCI to ensure no cross contaminant from oil supplied by dealer), and previously it was running on unknown oil by the dealer providing free servicing, since the change to Redline the engine felt more responsive, since this sample was taken, I have switched the Redline oil to 5w-20 as per instructed in the owners manual.

I`m kinda happy with the result that came back on the 0W-30, and keen to see the UOA results on the 5W-20 in time to come. Base on the result, the oxidation is kinda high, but need your kind counsel on any issues I might need to keep my eyes on.

1) How long more can I run the oil to nearly fully utilize the engine oil without sacrificing protection vs performance
2) What can I do to address the oxidation issue or its not something to be concerned about?
3) Any other advise.

You can't decide if the Oxidation is "High" unless you've gotten a new oil sample of clean oil first using this Redline. I'm assuming it has more of a synthetic base & they will show a higher oxidation. However, there are exceptions to that rule. The visc increased a bit it doesn't appear to be causing anything out of the ordinary here. Although your silicon is 15 the oil could hold a bit more. 20 is a reasonable condemnation point based on what I've seen elsewhere.

That would put you at running this oil at 13,333 kilometers. IMO that would be the end of the road for this oil so you have some life left. I wouldn't be concerned about the oxidation until you can get an oil sample of new oil first then we can make that determination.

 

[jellyfish]

You can't decide if the Oxidation is "High" unless you've gotten a new oil sample of clean oil first using this Redline. I'm assuming it has more of a synthetic base & they will show a higher oxidation. However, there are exceptions to that rule. The visc increased a bit it doesn't appear to be causing anything out of the ordinary here. Although your silicon is 15 the oil could hold a bit more. 20 is a reasonable condemnation point based on what I've seen elsewhere.

That would put you at running this oil at 13,333 kilometers. IMO that would be the end of the road for this oil so you have some life left. I wouldn't be concerned about the oxidation until you can get an oil sample of new oil first then we can make that determination.

Thanks for the calculation for the possible mileage to run the oil, that gives me the confidence i need when overlanding, as sometimes my trip will clock over 15000km by doing my SE Asian loop to golden triangle, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Malaysia and back to Singapore. Guess I`ll need to bring along 6 quarts of EO and filter along for my trip. Luckily I have installed the FUMOTO valve to aid in easy oil change, coupled to my lifted vehicle, no need to jack up my car too.

 

[jellyfish]

Hello sir, as a close cousin GX 460 owner, would love to see photos of your travels and vehicle sometime. It sounds like you have seen alot of pretty landscapes.

Here you go sir, my little rig, it isn't much, but it gets us to places.

 

[Brons2]

Wear looks good. The oil seems to be thickening, so you've maxed out the oci. Jmo

Disagree, Singapore is at 4 degrees north latitude. Year round tropical climate. Thickening into a 40 wt is no big deal. And with the TBN still over 6, I say run it anohter 5000KM.

 

[Brons2]

It's technically gone up to a 40 grade, at 12.9 cST. It starts out as a thick 30-grade at 11.7 cST according to the data sheet, so it's not a huge increase, but I'd say it's definitely indicating oxidation.

Oil oxidates a lot more quickly at high oil temperatures. In that climate with a lot of hilly driving the oil is probably running pretty hot and the oxidation is probably a sign of that. The 5W-20 should be okay, but I would lean towards something thicker than a 20 grade, like a 5W-30 or 10W-30 in that climate. There's no reason to use a 0W.

Wrong - Redline starts out with high oxidation on a lab test, virgin. The oxidation is not a sign of driving in the heat, it's typical for the oil used.

I do agree that a 0w anything is unnecessary for anywhere in Singapore and Thailand. But I don't believe it's hurting anything, after all, Toyota specs 0w20 for these engines in the USA and they last a long time.

 

[jellyfish]

Wrong - Redline starts out with high oxidation on a lab test, virgin. The oxidation is not a sign of driving in the heat, it's typical for the oil used.

I do agree that a 0w anything is unnecessary for anywhere in Singapore and Thailand. But I don't believe it's hurting anything, after all, Toyota specs 0w20 for these engines in the USA and they last a long time.

Thanks Brons2 for your insight, our local importer has only 0w-30 in stock during my purchase, if given the choice I would use 10w-30.

Same with my current redline oil in my engine which is 5W-20, we are only given that choice of oil to buy as singapore is just a tiny dot on the world map, the market for redline oil isn't very huge to absorb vast quantities of engine oil given that our government has made car ownership very difficult to attain, thus you guys have me drooling on the cheap cost of car ownership and you guys have the ability to keep your car for very long time, we have to pay a costly certificate of entitlement (COE) for 10yrs of usage with an option to extend with another payment which cost around $89,253.47usd given the recent bidding results, has made alot of Singaporean crying.

I'm still looking for some VOA for redline to have a better understanding on the numbers on fresh redline oil vs the numbers I'm looking at on my UOA.


I'm also trying to under what is the use on vanadium and cadmium in my UOA, till date all I know is they are pretty heavy metal, and not sure why my UOA list them inside.

 

[tvaughn]

Here you go sir, my little rig, it isn't much, but it gets us to places.

Very cool truck! I have a GX460, had a 2021 Tacoma with the 2.7L- legendary reliability with its iron block and forged bottom end, but I can imagine the acceleration is a bit leisurely in the Prado. I tend to do a lot of trips at higher elevations and really had to work that engine.

 

[jellyfish]

Very cool truck! I have a GX460, had a 2021 Tacoma with the 2.7L- legendary reliability with its iron block and forged bottom end, but I can imagine the acceleration is a bit leisurely in the Prado. I tend to do a lot of trips at higher elevations and really had to work that engine.

My Honda S2000 AP1 clocks in at 0-100kmph at 6.2 seconds, with my Prado, I`ve not even bothered to try, to me that SUV will get to 100kmph eventually, lol

But whoever drives a 4X4 will not attempt to hit high speed, but more of durability and off roadability.

But overlanding is not about how fast IMHO but where we drive our ride to.

Your GX460 and Tacoma would have brought you to very beautiful places also.

 

[fantastic]

I'm also trying to under what is the use on vanadium and cadmium in my UOA, till date all I know is they are pretty heavy metal, and not sure why my UOA list them inside.

It simply appears that your analysis lab uses <1 to mean 0 so there is none in your oil.

 

[jellyfish]

It simply appears that your analysis lab uses

Yup I did notice the near zero amount indicated in the UOA, but can anyone shine some light into the usage of vanadium and cadmium in the engine? As I have read an article written by Lethal1ty17 on the topic "A Chemistry Term Paper On My UOA" It made is so simple to understand what they meant in our UOA results, and how to make sense of it.

 

[fantastic]

Yup I did notice the near zero amount indicated in the UOA, but can anyone shine some light into the usage of vanadium and cadmium in the engine? As I have read an article written by Lethal1ty17 on the topic "A Chemistry Term Paper On My UOA" It made is so simple to understand what they meant in our UOA results, and how to make sense of it.

CADMIUM: Metal plating on some bearings. Also used in some paints, plastics and solders.

VANADIUM: Turbine components. Found in some marine fuels