Red Line 5W-30 vs. Mobil SS 10W-30

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Hi-

I'm wondering, based on all the collective knowledge at this site, which oil is better for long term engine protection in a racing conditions? The application will be in a high performance 4.6L SOHC Ford engine.

Any suggestions would be appreciated, too.

Thanks all!
 
I'm on a roll here guys so if I get annoying somebody just slap me ~!
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I'm becoming more and more of the opinion that a group III dino with a more "modern" add pack may be the best way to go here.

The high end syns don't seem to post any better results than the better dinos do.

There are some good dino racing oils out there which may serve you just as well as the oils you're considering. Perhaps even better.

Just my half-studied (admittedly)
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and probably half-baked as well... opinion.
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Dan
 
I think most people on this site think redline is the best oil for racing. Your should be comparing redline to Mobil 1 M1R racing 0W-30. In that case I would select the Mobil 1 racing. But the redline would probably do just as well.
 
quote:

Originally posted by TR3-2001SE:
I think most people on this site think redline is the best oil for racing. Your should be comparing redline to Mobil 1 M1R racing 0W-30. In that case I would select the Mobil 1 racing. But the redline would probably do just as well.

I tend to agree but......
We don't (I don't)have enough experience in Racing to know which is best. A few very knowledgeable folks on this site will tell you that RedLine comes into its own in racing conditions (Very High Moly). But I would not count out the Technology of Mobil R1. My choice would be Mobil R1.

Also I would go with one of these vs a Group III..A group III can not match a PAO (Mobil 1) or an Ester (Redline) also I don't know of any Group III's specifically designed for Racing/Performance.
 
thanks...everyone. Maybe a more specific question would be: which one would be better, Ester vs. PAO, in racing conditions?

as far as shear strength, etc.
 
Redline or Motul! THe more esters the better! A stout does of Moly,Boron,ZDDP,ANtimony will not hurt either!!! PAO and Mineral oils have close to the same film strength. Ester base stocks have far greater film strength for their viscosity compared to the other two base stocks listed above. The additives are a no brainer generaly more AW/EP is better then less. If it for track duty only less deteregnts reduce plug fouling and detination. If it is also for street use you want to keep a nice detergent package as well!
 
PAO/Ester mix all the way. You can have the best basestock in the world but if your additive package sux, then forget about your Ester schmester basestock.

quote:

Mobil 1 has been a major force behind our racing program since the late 1980s and I can assure you that if we use their products in our racecars, it is the absolute best product that money can buy.




[ March 14, 2005, 07:13 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
>
Originally posted by fuel tanker man:
>[QB] I'm on a roll here guys so if I get annoying >somebody just slap me ~!
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Okay, roll does rhyme with troll..........


>The high end syns don't seem to post any better >results than the better dinos do.

That's b/c most here don't do really extended intervals that use the capabilities of said oils. Weird that, for an oil site. But not too much different than getting medical advice from internet discussion groups, actually.
 
quote:

Originally posted by mf150:
thanks...everyone. Maybe a more specific question would be: which one would be better, Ester vs. PAO, in racing conditions?

as far as shear strength, etc.


An ester might be better..but again Mobil 1R has a bit of ester mixed in but also has a high dose of SuperSyn which was born out of their racing program.
 
"That's b/c most here don't do really extended intervals that use the capabilities of said oils."

So you're saying that if folks left the synthetics in longer the wear numbers would improve?

Dan
 
quote:

So you're saying that if folks left the synthetics in longer the wear numbers would improve?

No, but the main benefit of synthetics are longer drain intervals. If you look at most Dino oils they all have similar additive packages as the synthetic counterparts. That is why we don't see much difference in wear! But for long term engine cleanliness, long drains and hot/cold temp. performance, the base oil plays a role. If your running 5k mile drains, you dont need a synthetic unless you drive your car like a rental car IMO.
 
I completely agree. But the thing is--and I've come to this conclusion after being a member here and carefully perusing this forum and others like it, as well as the 'net at large for quite some time now: The synthetic will save you one, maybe two oil changes--but will afford you no real wear advantages if the dino is changed out early enough.

And there are certain benefits to changing out at 3000 to 4000 miles. You get a new filter, and if there's a fuel dilution issue, coolant leak issue, etc., you'll at least get the old oil out and new in. UOA's done along the way during a long run on synthetic, considering the cost of such, would seem to defeat the purpose (which is presumably to save money since wear issues aren't significantly differential).

That's all I was trying to say.
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I've gotten us off topic, though. The question is which oil is the best race oil, and mf150 gave us his choices. My bust...
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I shouldn't have brought up the "D" word.
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Dan
 
quote:

I'm becoming more and more of the opinion that a group III dino with a more "modern" add pack may be the best way to go here.

Possibly, but the GIII base oil is more than just GIII; they are using some interesting esters (and other Group V's) and PAO to boot.
 
so, if I were to do a poll and the choices were either Polyol Ester or PAO,for racing conditions, what would you choose?


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quote:

so, if I were to do a poll and the choices were either Polyol Ester or PAO,for racing conditions, what would you choose?

IMO, you can't make a poll with such a simple question. Additives play a role, not just the baseoil. Schaeffer's for example. Even the Group III's + Esters/Pao's are great. It's not that simple.
 
Thanks for pointing that out, Buster.

I'm just trying to figure out which oil Mobil 1 SS 10w30 or Red Line 5W30 will be better for a blown application in a V8.

I want the engine to last as long as possible...taking into account that the engine is not defective...
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Thanks.
 
It's really hard to say without UOA's unfortunately.
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My choices would be M1R, Mobil 1 EP, Amsoil 0w-30/Redline 5w30 or German Castrol. Sorry I know that doesn't help much.
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Ah, it's okay...it was helpful! I may just have to do the UOA at 5,000 miles with the Red Line 5W30 that is in there now.

Just got off the phone with my custom tuner, and he suggested Mobil 1 SS 10w30 in my application, but he said that Red Line is prob. just as good. Of course, he's in the rural hills of VA. And I am about 30 minutes away from Benicia, California...home of Red Line.

Just want to put the most protective oil in my ride. Thanks for your imput.
 
quote:

And I am about 30 minutes away from Benicia, California...home of Red Line.

Nice...beats NJ. Take a sample and let that tell you. RL might not always show great UOA's in daily drivers, but for hard driving, it might be great.
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