It looks like if there's any doubt about what to use 5w-30 would be a possible universal choice.
Recommended oil weights around the world.
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Everything in Canada is more or less is 20wt with the exception of a few. Most vehicles see whatever the dealer has which is usually 5w30.
Over the OP's Civic needs Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 or Edge 5W-30. I don't know how many times this has been thrashed out, but the US uses thinner oils for some fuel economy regs, the rest of the world doesn't get told what oil to use, so go thicker.
Not all that different regarding viscosity over here in Europe. Most common grade is by far 5w30 ACEA C3 and C2 (that would be very similar oil to the NA Api SN, ILSAC GF5). My PSA use that. 5w40 is also very popular. Nobody is using 20w50 or 15w50 and so. Simply, modern Euro cars demand special oils and those don't come in thick grades.
I have seen no appreciable need to change from the 10w30 viscosity I have used for years in both gas and diesel engines. Easy to find and some of the lowest prices on the shelf and it does a great job year round.
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
I have seen no appreciable need to change from the 10w30 viscosity I have used for years in both gas and diesel engines. Easy to find and some of the lowest prices on the shelf and it does a great job year round.
Don't think I've ever seen that here, and I've looked, because its the recommended multigrade for my engine at local ambients.
Its all either thinner or thicker, so I choose thicker.
I have seen no appreciable need to change from the 10w30 viscosity I have used for years in both gas and diesel engines. Easy to find and some of the lowest prices on the shelf and it does a great job year round.
Don't think I've ever seen that here, and I've looked, because its the recommended multigrade for my engine at local ambients.
Its all either thinner or thicker, so I choose thicker.
In Europe up until about 10 years ago 10W-40 Synth-blends were the norm, now 5W-30 ( full synth ) is probably the most common spec for new cars, both petrol and diesel cars.
20 grades are hardly used in Europe because of... you guessed it! we don't have CAFE standards... although our emissions standards are much more strict specially for Diesels.
20 grades are hardly used in Europe because of... you guessed it! we don't have CAFE standards... although our emissions standards are much more strict specially for Diesels.
Originally Posted By: Dumc87
Originally Posted By: OhOMG
Why not?
For my applications, it doesn't make sense. I live in Florida, a hot and humid climate. I already run 0w20 or 5w20 in the Matrix. The G20 currently has 0w40, although I won't mind using 10w30. The Jeep has 282K miles, so I wouldn't venture to try a anything less than a 5w30 in that. The 300ZX notoriously runs well on 10w30+ grade oils as the VG30DE(TT) beats on oil, in a productive sense lol.
The 5.9 Jeep runs hot by nature, which is why the hood has vents from the factory, so I wouldn't waste a 0w20 getting beat to shreds by 3K miles, versus running a synthetic 5w30 that could still be good at 5K.
Just my thoughts.
I almost bought a 5.9 but it was too beat up so I did not, it needed too many things. Thanks for elaborating.. Motor Oil 101 on here, in brief, basically says that you can put 0W-20 if not 0W-30 in just about anything at any time and in any climate, what it shys away from is under non-strenuous driving conditions unless there are serious oil coolers or things like that, (specific applications before anyone can come along and mention that) so thanks for elaborating on why it does not work for you.
Originally Posted By: OhOMG
Why not?
For my applications, it doesn't make sense. I live in Florida, a hot and humid climate. I already run 0w20 or 5w20 in the Matrix. The G20 currently has 0w40, although I won't mind using 10w30. The Jeep has 282K miles, so I wouldn't venture to try a anything less than a 5w30 in that. The 300ZX notoriously runs well on 10w30+ grade oils as the VG30DE(TT) beats on oil, in a productive sense lol.
The 5.9 Jeep runs hot by nature, which is why the hood has vents from the factory, so I wouldn't waste a 0w20 getting beat to shreds by 3K miles, versus running a synthetic 5w30 that could still be good at 5K.
Just my thoughts.
I almost bought a 5.9 but it was too beat up so I did not, it needed too many things. Thanks for elaborating.. Motor Oil 101 on here, in brief, basically says that you can put 0W-20 if not 0W-30 in just about anything at any time and in any climate, what it shys away from is under non-strenuous driving conditions unless there are serious oil coolers or things like that, (specific applications before anyone can come along and mention that) so thanks for elaborating on why it does not work for you.
FYI... looks like 0w-20 is recommended by Honda in the UK for most of their applications...
http://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/PDF_Files/Honda Castrol Lubricant GuideChart.pdf
http://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/PDF_Files/Honda Castrol Lubricant GuideChart.pdf
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
FYI... looks like 0w-20 is recommended by Honda in the UK for most of their applications...
http://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/PDF_Files/Honda Castrol Lubricant GuideChart.pdf
first, the document is from Castrol and not Honda, 2nd, how do we know if they use the same engines in USA vs Europe for direct comparison? i'm not a Honda guy.
FYI... looks like 0w-20 is recommended by Honda in the UK for most of their applications...
http://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/PDF_Files/Honda Castrol Lubricant GuideChart.pdf
first, the document is from Castrol and not Honda, 2nd, how do we know if they use the same engines in USA vs Europe for direct comparison? i'm not a Honda guy.
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
FYI... looks like 0w-20 is recommended by Honda in the UK for most of their applications...
http://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/PDF_Files/Honda Castrol Lubricant GuideChart.pdf
first, the document is from Castrol and not Honda
I did not say it was from Honda, although you can find very similar/same documents posted on various Honda sites in Europe. Obviously their chosen oil supplier (Castrol) has put this brochure together, but they wouldn't do it without Honda's blessing.
Quote:
2nd, how do we know if they use the same engines in USA vs Europe for direct comparison? i'm not a Honda guy.
No idea. Good question.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
FYI... looks like 0w-20 is recommended by Honda in the UK for most of their applications...
http://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/PDF_Files/Honda Castrol Lubricant GuideChart.pdf
first, the document is from Castrol and not Honda
I did not say it was from Honda, although you can find very similar/same documents posted on various Honda sites in Europe. Obviously their chosen oil supplier (Castrol) has put this brochure together, but they wouldn't do it without Honda's blessing.
Quote:
2nd, how do we know if they use the same engines in USA vs Europe for direct comparison? i'm not a Honda guy.
No idea. Good question.
Originally Posted By: OhOMG
Originally Posted By: Dumc87
Originally Posted By: OhOMG
Why not?
For my applications, it doesn't make sense. I live in Florida, a hot and humid climate. I already run 0w20 or 5w20 in the Matrix. The G20 currently has 0w40, although I won't mind using 10w30. The Jeep has 282K miles, so I wouldn't venture to try a anything less than a 5w30 in that. The 300ZX notoriously runs well on 10w30+ grade oils as the VG30DE(TT) beats on oil, in a productive sense lol.
The 5.9 Jeep runs hot by nature, which is why the hood has vents from the factory, so I wouldn't waste a 0w20 getting beat to shreds by 3K miles, versus running a synthetic 5w30 that could still be good at 5K.
Just my thoughts.
I almost bought a 5.9 but it was too beat up so I did not, it needed too many things. Thanks for elaborating.. Motor Oil 101 on here, in brief, basically says that you can put 0W-20 if not 0W-30 in just about anything at any time and in any climate, what it shys away from is under non-strenuous driving conditions unless there are serious oil coolers or things like that, (specific applications before anyone can come along and mention that) so thanks for elaborating on why it does not work for you.
If you ever want a ZJ (93-98 Grand Cherokee) I would definitely recommend a 5.9! I've had a 4.0 and a 5.2, and I like the 5.9 the best. Definitely find one in good shape; lots of these are beaten up due to trail rigs, mudders, lack of maintenance, etc. Good ones are out there though. I actually may end up selling mine soon, NOT because I want to, just life may necessitate as such.
Honestly, I think so long as the engine of any make has liquid non-sludge oil, it'll run. The various grades help it perform better; more efficient or more powerful.
I'm no engineer though, just research a lot of stuff haha
Originally Posted By: Dumc87
Originally Posted By: OhOMG
Why not?
For my applications, it doesn't make sense. I live in Florida, a hot and humid climate. I already run 0w20 or 5w20 in the Matrix. The G20 currently has 0w40, although I won't mind using 10w30. The Jeep has 282K miles, so I wouldn't venture to try a anything less than a 5w30 in that. The 300ZX notoriously runs well on 10w30+ grade oils as the VG30DE(TT) beats on oil, in a productive sense lol.
The 5.9 Jeep runs hot by nature, which is why the hood has vents from the factory, so I wouldn't waste a 0w20 getting beat to shreds by 3K miles, versus running a synthetic 5w30 that could still be good at 5K.
Just my thoughts.
I almost bought a 5.9 but it was too beat up so I did not, it needed too many things. Thanks for elaborating.. Motor Oil 101 on here, in brief, basically says that you can put 0W-20 if not 0W-30 in just about anything at any time and in any climate, what it shys away from is under non-strenuous driving conditions unless there are serious oil coolers or things like that, (specific applications before anyone can come along and mention that) so thanks for elaborating on why it does not work for you.
If you ever want a ZJ (93-98 Grand Cherokee) I would definitely recommend a 5.9! I've had a 4.0 and a 5.2, and I like the 5.9 the best. Definitely find one in good shape; lots of these are beaten up due to trail rigs, mudders, lack of maintenance, etc. Good ones are out there though. I actually may end up selling mine soon, NOT because I want to, just life may necessitate as such.
Honestly, I think so long as the engine of any make has liquid non-sludge oil, it'll run. The various grades help it perform better; more efficient or more powerful.
I'm no engineer though, just research a lot of stuff haha
Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
The 2018 Camry I4 I looked at last week used 0W-16. I haven't seen that oil on the shelves yet.
Yes so what does that do lock the new car buyer into dealer OIC's until it hits the shelves or you have violated your warranty.
The 2018 Camry I4 I looked at last week used 0W-16. I haven't seen that oil on the shelves yet.
Yes so what does that do lock the new car buyer into dealer OIC's until it hits the shelves or you have violated your warranty.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: JohnnyJohnson
Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
The 2018 Camry I4 I looked at last week used 0W-16. I haven't seen that oil on the shelves yet.
Yes so what does that do lock the new car buyer into dealer OIC's until it hits the shelves or you have violated your warranty.
A lot of people seem to have that fear but it appears to be be completely unwarranted. No one's owner's manuals say using a different grade will violate the new car warranty. We had a long thread on this topic a while back and there was no evidence it was true. Have you seen anything that indicates it is a warranty item?
Even when people say the dealer can make it "difficult" for you or otherwise object, that too seems to never be the case. Oil specifications maybe, and evidence of an oil change for sure, but not the grade.
Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
The 2018 Camry I4 I looked at last week used 0W-16. I haven't seen that oil on the shelves yet.
Yes so what does that do lock the new car buyer into dealer OIC's until it hits the shelves or you have violated your warranty.
A lot of people seem to have that fear but it appears to be be completely unwarranted. No one's owner's manuals say using a different grade will violate the new car warranty. We had a long thread on this topic a while back and there was no evidence it was true. Have you seen anything that indicates it is a warranty item?
Even when people say the dealer can make it "difficult" for you or otherwise object, that too seems to never be the case. Oil specifications maybe, and evidence of an oil change for sure, but not the grade.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Rather than some nefarious conspiracy theory, what it tells me is that the engines will operate on a range of grades and overall it isn't significant.
+1 and I've posted the same in other threads.
The mains aren't pressure fed. They just need to have enough oil available to replace the oil that leaks out the sides. Since they run in a hydrodynamic regime, oil grade (not weight as the OP has it!) is irrelevant.
So why are thicker grades recommended in some markets?
Conservatism and availability.
If an engine can lead a longer life than the vehicle it's installed in on a twenty grade oil while letting the vehicle's owners keep three or four hundred dollars in fuel savings in their pockets over the life of the vehicle, then what's not to like?
As has been said here many times before, the engine will be the last part of the car to wear out, regardless of oil grade used.
Rather than some nefarious conspiracy theory, what it tells me is that the engines will operate on a range of grades and overall it isn't significant.
+1 and I've posted the same in other threads.
The mains aren't pressure fed. They just need to have enough oil available to replace the oil that leaks out the sides. Since they run in a hydrodynamic regime, oil grade (not weight as the OP has it!) is irrelevant.
So why are thicker grades recommended in some markets?
Conservatism and availability.
If an engine can lead a longer life than the vehicle it's installed in on a twenty grade oil while letting the vehicle's owners keep three or four hundred dollars in fuel savings in their pockets over the life of the vehicle, then what's not to like?
As has been said here many times before, the engine will be the last part of the car to wear out, regardless of oil grade used.
The engine and transmission though are the most expensive things to replace in terms of major components.
It's criminal that some transmissions come recommended as "lifetime" fluid. Even just 2-3 changes over 150k miles seems to greatly lengthen longevity.
It's criminal that some transmissions come recommended as "lifetime" fluid. Even just 2-3 changes over 150k miles seems to greatly lengthen longevity.
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They must “tout” this 150k mile thing to increase sales … why else did I have to dig around in the same owners manual to a separate “severe” section that stipulated 30k … Honestly ~ that should be side by side if not on a scale …
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This topic always keeps me curious. I looked up the different K24 engines (some spec 5W30 while some spec 5,0W20. The 5W30 version appears to be a completely different engine,with the only main similarity being the block. Internals are different and the 5W30 model uses under piston oil squirters while the 20W doesn't. Mine appears to be the K24Z. The models across the globe where 30W and 40W is spec'd uses a different version of the K24.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_K_engine
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_K_engine
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