Recommend an Oil for My Car

[Cogito]

I have been around here as a member and a lurker for over a year, and I see these threads all the time where somebody wants to know what is the best oil for their 94 Camaro, 89 Accord, 99 F150, 05 Corvette, etc. People will make a few suggestions, sometimes contradicting each other, and a lot of folks will more or less say that it really doesn't make that much difference which brand is used as long it meets the manufacturer's recommendations.

So, I'm sort of coming to the conclusion that the brand probably doesn't matter very much as long as you are using the correct weight and type of oil recommended for your car. What do you guys really think, is that right? Are there any mainstream oils out there that are downright horrible or unbelieveably better than most of the others?

 

[Bryanccfshr]

You are on the right path with your conclusion and the answer to your last question is no.
With that out of the way you can now purchase based on other factors such as bottle color, sales etc..

 

[JavaMan]

It sounds like you had the answer before you asked the question.

 

[Ron AKA]

There are no bad oils that meet the latest API (SM), and ILSAC (GF-4) specs. If you buy an oil that does not actually meet these specs then your are in buyer beware country.

And even within the latest spec qualifiers, there is good, better and best. I see the biggest differences in the cooler temperature specs such as CCS and MRV. If you want to sort out the best from the good and better, look at these values.

And this is kind of meaningless as well if you are going to plunk in a 15w oil, as then you are just looking at the best of a bad lot.

 

[Cogito]

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And even within the latest spec qualifiers, there is good, better and best. I see the biggest differences in the cooler temperature specs such as CCS and MRV. If you want to sort out the best from the good and better, look at these values.

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OK, if one does sort out the latest spec qualifiers into "good, better, best," I still get the impression that the real-world differences between the 'good' and the 'best' would be indistinguishable to the end user. Sort of like the stereo receiver that has .00001% distortion compared to the one with .0001%. It might be better in theoretical terms on some expensive test equipment, but no one could ever hear any difference. So is it worth paying more to get it?

 

[Ugly3]

 

[Ron AKA]

Actually if you compare CCS and MRV you will find the differences are not that small. Check these for example.

 

[427Z06]

Given that you're in Chicago and see -22°F temps like once every 20 years, I wouldn't worry to much about the CCS and MRV specs between oils of the same grade.

However, it is important to use the grade that is recommended in your user's manual for the climate you're in. And any SM/GF-4 oil will be of sufficient quality for the manufacturers recommended change interval.

There are some oils better than others, but their qualities are usually only needed for extreme situations, like Arctic cold, high temps generated when racing, extended oil change intervals, sludgemonster or aftermarket modified engines, etc.

If you want the absolute best for your vehicle, hire a professional consultant like Terry Dyson . He's is as unbiased as they come when it pertains to lubricants, unlike some of the opinions you will find here. He also stresses value, so if an inexpensive oil gets the job done, he has no qualms about recommending it.

 

[Blue99]

OK, Ron, we'll play games again!

Based on this comparison that you've trotted out again - and BTW, as I previously pointed out, the Motorcraft data needs to be removed since it is from a circa 2000 year webpage for old, SJ oils - you are suggesting what?

That at normal, overnight Chicago winter lows of about +20 F degrees, Cogito from Chicago is going to notice a viscosity difference that affects the engine start & warm-up phase?

All the oils will be about 700 to 900 cSt at 20F, and I don't think the 200 cSt range would translate to a performance differential, or that anyone could listen to the start-up & pick out Petro-Can vs. Pennzoil.

 

[Ron AKA]

No games. Some want thinnest possible oil at startup. I happen to be one. That is where the differences in oils come in. Once warmed up engines automatically control temperature and this is a very predictable condition for all oils to meet. However, you can't contol start-up temps unless you park in a temperature controlled garage. This is where oils perform differently.

I find it amazing that some think there are magic low cutoff temperatures for each of the XXw oils. Yes at some point the oil will not flow and there will be a really big problem, but above that point we are just talking quantitative differences not go or no-go. Some care about it and some don't.

 

[Blue99]

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Some want thinnest possible oil at startup. I happen to be one.

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Ok, so what is the magic viscosity point at which an oil is no longer thin enough for start-up?

Is it 2000 cSt, 1200 cSt, 900 cSt, what?

 

[Ron AKA]

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Ok, so what is the magic viscosity point at which an oil is no longer thin enough for start-up? Is it 2000 cSt, 1200 cSt, 900 cSt, what?

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About 10 cSt if you are running a 30 wt or 8 cSt if a 20, would do just fine. Anthing higher is a compromise. What you are asking is how much do you want to compromise?

 

[Blue99]

About 10 cSt?

Most multi-viscosity 30 weights run 125-175 cSt at room temperatures.

New oil, right out of the bottle, on a 70 F degree summer day, is too thick?

Come on now, some viscosity thickening is beneficial for cold starting an engine, as the clearances are loose until thermal expansion kicks in!

 

[Nickdfresh]

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No games. Some want thinnest possible oil at startup. I happen to be one....

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No problem, try ESSO XD-3!

 

[Ron AKA]

I'm just saying all oil is thicker than ideal at startup, and how much do you want to compromise? I prefer as little as possible. Also keep in mind that holes expand at the same rate as shafts when they warm up.

 

[Ron AKA]

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No problem, try ESSO XD-3!

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Yes you are right the XD-3 is a good oil, that we have access to at good prices up here. It would be better if it was SM/GF-4 qualified. Also it is a heavier 0w30 like the Castrol GC, and not quite as good at low temps as the PetroCan and Amsoil.

 

[Nickdfresh]

Hmmm. I thought last time PetroCan had a -36C pour point?

 

[Ron AKA]

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Hmmm. I thought last time PetroCan had a -36C pour point?

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The 5w20, 5w30, and 10w30 conventionals, and also the 5w30 and 10w30 synthetics have a -36C pour point. Their Ow30 has the -42.