Recomendation on DE-sludging neglected motor.

[Tim_Z]

Hello all.

I have just inherited a 1990 Toyota Tercel 1.5L with 57K miles on the odometer from my 99 1/2 year old great-grandmother. I say this vehicle is neglected because she has had it from 1992 (with approximately 33K miles then) until now 57K. That means in 11 years she has driven the car 24K miles. Oh yeah, since she is pretty aged, she probably never got the car over 35mph. I would always change the oil once a year although I told her it should have been changed more often. When I would drive the car to my place to do its winter prep I noticed it would hesitate badly and didn't have very much power.

Since taking over the vehicle two weeks ago, I have been cramming Redline SI-1 fuel system cleaner down it's tank as much as possible. I could hear pinging under any acceleration. I BELIEVE the combustion chamber situation is improving but have nothing solid to go on.

I am also about 150 miles in to an AutoRX treatment as i can only imagine what the inside of the engine looks like. No, I am too afraid to cut open the oil filter when I remove it.

I have 2 bottles left of SI-1 and just today purchased a gallon each of Lube Control and Fuel Power from Odis's distribution chain in the Midwest.

My question to you is after the SI-1 is used up, what would any of you recommend I do to get the engine to run better?

Any comments greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Tim

 

[MolaKule]

It certainly sounds as if the combustion chambers are carboned up, so here some things for starters.

1. Make sure the charging system is fully charging the battery and the cooling system is clean and has fresh 50/50 coolant. Don't forget the belts and hoses as well.

2. I would make sure the engine's electrical system is up to par by replacing wires, plugs, distributor cap, etc. Maybe even replace the O2 sensor. If there is no check engine light, then the other sensors may be ok.

3. Replace any vacuum hoses and the PCV valve.

4. Add the LC to the oil after the Auto-RX treatment and FP to the fuel. You may even need a second ARX treatment. Change the oil and filter often until it stabilizes. The LC will help clean the engine internals and stabilize oil oxidation.

5. As the pinging subsides, run the car more often and faster.

Aunt minnie driving one of the most severe categories of service.

 

[Pablo]

Itsa Toyota. Molacule nailed most things, don't forget the other lubes (tranny, bearings)...but they'll probably be fine.

Just slowly blow it out.

 

[Tim_Z]

Good recomendations guys. That's what I'll be doing. Sure will be an arduous (sp?) task.

Thanks

Tim

 

[JohnBrowning]

First I agree with everything Molakule recomended. I do have a few questions though.
1) Has timeing been checked?
2) How are the spark plugs and wires?
3) How is the cap and rotor?
4) Have you checked the knock sensor and pickup coil?

The pinging concerns me! I have never had a Toyota consistently ping!! It really sounds like a bad sensor to me. Have you shorted out the diagnostic conector. If you short it out and turn the ignition to on without starting it you can see any stored codes. This combined with a multi-meter will help get you motoring on.

 

[Tim_Z]

JohnBrowning:

1.) No.
2.) OK but not great.
3.) I dunno.
4.) No I haven't. I was not aware this vehicle would have one though.

I will need to break down and buy a Chiltons ( I hate those inaccurate books).
For the two weeks I have been in possesion of the vehicle I have not had a place to give it a thourough looking over as the driveway has been removed to be replaced.

Just an FYI on the belief that the motor is carboned up. I just had to put a new muffler on it and when the shop removed the old one a huge amount of black (not rust) carbon poured out across the floor. I don't know how much there was as he stopped the flow of black crap once he saw the mess it was making.

Also another observation I have is upon acceleration from a stop the vehicle's powerband goes flat then the power comes on. I do not know if that is the nature of this engine or an effect of the years of neglect.

Thanks to all for your thoughts.

Tim

(edited to correct bad spelling)

[ September 28, 2003, 03:48 PM: Message edited by: Tim_Z ]

 

[GROUCHO MARX]

The Chilton manual is available online:

http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Manual Lookup/cal_ModelLookup.html

 

[labman]

quote:

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Originally posted by Tim_Z:
JohnBrowning:

.... snip
I will need to break down and buy a Chiltons ( I hate those inaccurate books).
....snip
(edited to correct bad spelling)

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Try http://www.factoryautomanuals.com/cart/customer/home.php. You may be able to get a used real shop manual for the price of a Chilton's. I am gritting my teeth about Helms wanting $120 for a new manual for my soon to be out of warranty 02 Cavalier.

 

[Tim_Z]

To GROUCHO MARX:
Thanks for the link, I had no idea!!

To labman:
I know what you mean, I have always bought the Helm factory service manuals for all my new vehicles though mine were only in the $65 range. Is the $120 price for all the manuals pertaining to your model?

Went to the site, $45 not bad, might have to get it.

Thanks again all.

Tim

 

[GROUCHO MARX]

You're welcome!

 

[jsharp]

quote:

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Originally posted by labman:

quote:

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Originally posted by Tim_Z:
JohnBrowning:

.... snip
I will need to break down and buy a Chiltons ( I hate those inaccurate books).
....snip
(edited to correct bad spelling)

---

Try http://www.factoryautomanuals.com/cart/customer/home.php. You may be able to get a used real shop manual for the price of a Chilton's. I am gritting my teeth about Helms wanting $120 for a new manual for my soon to be out of warranty 02 Cavalier.

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The factory manual will be worth every penny of the additional cost vs. a Chilton or Haynes manual. If you can find one, get it. You won't regret it...