rebuilt 700r4 maintenance questions

[Santo Fontana]

I have a rebuilt 700r4 in my 90 gmc sierra 1500. Id like to do some preventative "maintenance" to it. Its got about 10k on it now so I figure it's due for an oil change.

I'm thinking about using castrol dex VI and an oversize pan with drain-plug. Change all the fluid once a year.

I also grabbed a trans cooler at the junkyard which I will run inline (after )with the one in the rad.

I plan to install a temp gauge too.

How about an inline filter? Any pros or cons to that?

What are your thoughts/suggestions? Is any of this overkill the truck is mainly just highway driving but it is worked hard every once in a while. I want the option to tow confidently. Here are the specs (new springs too):

 

[SteveSRT8]

It's all pro around here on an inline filter. I'm sure someone will chime in on that one.

Nice parts list, that should run forever as long as you take care of it!

 

[simple_gifts]

I was told that the one preventative maintenance item for this transmission (which I owned two vehicles with it) is never place in OD unless above 45mph on the way to even higher speeds.

Never changed the fluid and both were over 200K when I got rid of them. (not recommending that, obviously)

 

[cronk]

I have a 93 chevy p/u with a 4L60E, pretty much a 700R4 but electronically controlled. I installed a finned aluminum pan with a drain plug (I added a magnetic drain plug). I did a complete cooler line flush, added a new filter and topped off with Maxlife DEX/Merc atf. Shifts better than ever, I plan on doing a drain and fill once a year, and a filter change at about 50 or 60k.

If you install an external cooler it should go through the external cooler first, then through the rad heat exchanger, that way in cold weather the fluid is warmed in the rad before going back into the transmission.

 

[cchase]

Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
I was told that the one preventative maintenance item for this transmission (which I owned two vehicles with it) is never place in OD unless above 45mph on the way to even higher speeds.

Never changed the fluid and both were over 200K when I got rid of them. (not recommending that, obviously)


I'd agree with that advice. These transmissions wil pop in and out of lock-up constantly around 40-45 in most of their applications if they're in OD.

 

[sciphi]

I'm the first of the chorus...

Magnefine. Easy, cheap, great insurance.

And Maxlife ATF is an excellent choice. My Buick is loving it.

 

[Santo Fontana]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
It's all pro around here on an inline filter. I'm sure someone will chime in on that one.

Nice parts list, that should run forever as long as you take care of it!


Thats cheap and easy so I will probably do it. Which ones do you guys like? (inline filter)

 

[Santo Fontana]

Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
I was told that the one preventative maintenance item for this transmission (which I owned two vehicles with it) is never place in OD unless above 45mph on the way to even higher speeds.

Never changed the fluid and both were over 200K when I got rid of them. (not recommending that, obviously)


I fully agree and dont put it in o-drive until im on the highway anymore.

 

[Santo Fontana]

Originally Posted By: cronk
I have a 93 chevy p/u with a 4L60E, pretty much a 700R4 but electronically controlled. I installed a finned aluminum pan with a drain plug (I added a magnetic drain plug). I did a complete cooler line flush, added a new filter and topped off with Maxlife DEX/Merc atf. Shifts better than ever, I plan on doing a drain and fill once a year, and a filter change at about 50 or 60k.

If you install an external cooler it should go through the external cooler first, then through the rad heat exchanger, that way in cold weather the fluid is warmed in the rad before going back into the transmission.


Check out this thread which contradicts what you say about routing of the extra cooler. Not arguing, just wondering the pros and cons as usual.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/faq-board/244064-700r4-life-span-relative.html

 

[Santo Fontana]

Do I definitely need a different filter/fluid pickup with a bigger pan?

 

[cchase]

Originally Posted By: Santo Fontana

Check out this thread which contradicts what you say about routing of the extra cooler. Not arguing, just wondering the pros and cons as usual.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/faq-board/244064-700r4-life-span-relative.html


I did quite a bit of back and forth on this when I was figuring out how to route a cooler. In the end, I think the advice to run it before the radiator is better. Mainly because cold transmission fluid isn't great, either.

 

[cronk]

Originally Posted By: Santo Fontana
Originally Posted By: cronk
I have a 93 chevy p/u with a 4L60E, pretty much a 700R4 but electronically controlled. I installed a finned aluminum pan with a drain plug (I added a magnetic drain plug). I did a complete cooler line flush, added a new filter and topped off with Maxlife DEX/Merc atf. Shifts better than ever, I plan on doing a drain and fill once a year, and a filter change at about 50 or 60k.

If you install an external cooler it should go through the external cooler first, then through the rad heat exchanger, that way in cold weather the fluid is warmed in the rad before going back into the transmission.


Check out this thread which contradicts what you say about routing of the extra cooler. Not arguing, just wondering the pros and cons as usual.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/faq-board/244064-700r4-life-span-relative.html


I bought and installed a heavy duty GM cooler on my truck.
The directions from GM instruct you to plum the cooler first and the rad exchanger 2nd.

I suppose if you live in a hot climate, it wouldn't make any difference, but with cold winter temps, It makes sense.

 

[Santo Fontana]

just emailed my builder and he said any dex III every 30k

 

[Santo Fontana]

Originally Posted By: sciphi
I'm the first of the chorus...

Magnefine. Easy, cheap, great insurance.
.


but is everything harmful in dirty oil magnetic?

 

[Santo Fontana]

Originally Posted By: cronk
Originally Posted By: Santo Fontana
Originally Posted By: cronk
I have a 93 chevy p/u with a 4L60E, pretty much a 700R4 but electronically controlled. I installed a finned aluminum pan with a drain plug (I added a magnetic drain plug). I did a complete cooler line flush, added a new filter and topped off with Maxlife DEX/Merc atf. Shifts better than ever, I plan on doing a drain and fill once a year, and a filter change at about 50 or 60k.

If you install an external cooler it should go through the external cooler first, then through the rad heat exchanger, that way in cold weather the fluid is warmed in the rad before going back into the transmission.


Check out this thread which contradicts what you say about routing of the extra cooler. Not arguing, just wondering the pros and cons as usual.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/faq-board/244064-700r4-life-span-relative.html


I bought and installed a heavy duty GM cooler on my truck.
The directions from GM instruct you to plum the cooler first and the rad exchanger 2nd.

I suppose if you live in a hot climate, it wouldn't make any difference, but with cold winter temps, It makes sense.


I live in MASS so I think I will do it your (and GMs) way.

 

[sciphi]

Originally Posted By: Santo Fontana
Originally Posted By: sciphi
I'm the first of the chorus...

Magnefine. Easy, cheap, great insurance.
.


but is everything harmful in dirty oil magnetic?


Not everything. There are a good number of non-ferrous items in a transmission that wear. So, having a filter with both a magnet and a regular filter in the same unit is covering all the bases.

 

[MrBeachcomber]

I did the same thing with my '89 Vette's 700R4 transmission with the exception of the external transmission cooler (no room in the engine bay as the only available spaced was taken up with a power steering cooler). This was a while back so I was using semi-synthetic ATF instead of full synthetic. Dropped the pan and changed the fluid, pan filter, and inline filter every 15K, and the original transmission lasted for 171K which included lots of auto-xing (stick it in 2nd gear and go) and some track events.

Changed over to a 180F thermostat to gain a quick ten degree drop in coolant temperature. I then tapped the line pressure test port on the driver's side of the transmission for my temp gauge. (Best upgrade for the buck IMHO.) I used a Jeg's deep aluminum pan to add capacity and epoxied a magnetic strip to the interior of the pan to collect small metallic particles just like the original pan.

Good luck with the changes!

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

Originally Posted By: Santo Fontana
but is everything harmful in dirty oil magnetic?


The Magnefine also has a paper element to catch non-ferrous material. If you're putting in a cooler, this would be the perfect time to add a Magnefine. You'll be able to run your lines so the filter is easy to change. Since you're using a junkyard cooler, put the filter in the line coming out of that cooler to catch any contaminants from the junked vehicle. Definitely add a drain plug, too, even if you keep the existing pan.

From your parst list, it looks like you are way ahead of most 700R4s. Like others have said, keep it in D at low speeds, and don't tow in overdrive. I had a good experience myself with this notoriously weak trans. I bought an 87 Caprice that had been a sherriff's car from its second owner at 150,000. I added a small tube and fin cooler, drain plug, B&M Transpak, and changed fluid twice. The trans was fine until I sold the car with about 205,000 on it.