Rebuilding caliper

[NJC]

Time to replace front pads on the Honda. But caliper's leaking and is now starting to run down back of brakes.

Caliper rebuild kit: $5.30 Napa.

I use a NPT threaded adapter and hooked to the end of a bicycle pump and pushed out piston. Carefully pushing the back of piston with a screwdriver through banjo nut hole (where hose connects) would work fine too.

Clean thoroughly; polish piston; blah blah. Back together, bleed and off to the races (or work next day).

A few days go by and I notice a small amount of new oil on garage floor near tire. Oh oh. Sure enough, the inside of tire sidewall is covered in oil. Erg.

I take it apart tonight and carefully inspect.

Everything looks fine except the piston seals are ~1/16" different size. The old one was bigger; IE it didn't fit the piston as well. Initially I disregarded it as worn and stretched.

I happen to glance at the caliper and it has "S1185" stamped on, as well as "86". Oh oh part II. My car is an '84. Long winded story to say when buying brake parts, look carefully at the calipers to see if they have been changed from factory defaults.

I put it back together with old piston seal until I can buy the correct part. Haven't road tested but it will definitely not leak as bad as the new one.

 

[JackFish]

At least you're only out your time, and $5.30.

 

[Donald]

I did not think anyone rebuilt calipers any more. Maybe its just repair shops will not do it any more dues to labor cost (vs new made in China) or liability.

So if repair shops do not do it, then I am surprised that the rebuild kits are available if only shadetree mechanics use them.

 

[NJC]

I think you're right–it must be the expense of shop labour ... expense and probably liability. Too much hassle if it comes back leaking from slight pits in piston/bore.

It really was not a hard job. And assuming my brake calipers are OEM, they are going to be better quality that aftermarket rebuilt units. Certainly if pitting is too large, then it's not worth rebuilding.

 

[Tempest]

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look carefully at the calipers to see if they have been changed from factory defaults.

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I agree, check your parts. My 99' Ranger has the front wheel suspension/brakes of a 97'! Bought it straight off the lot. Of course I didn't know this until I went to get parts. Buying calipers and rotors was NOT fun.

 

[alreadygone]

Haven't rebuilt a wheel cyl, master cyl, or caliper in my shop for years! factory rebuilds too cheap, too good, and have a WARRANTY!! Never had a Cardone rebuild fail. Cannot understand how anyone here thinks they can rebuild as good as a assembly line where everything is measured, magnafluxed, honed, stainless steel inserts where necesssary, usually to closer tolerances than new. Whatever you do for a living, I'd hope you are better at it than someone who dabbles at it for a hobby.

Bob

 

[doitmyself]

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Cannot understand how anyone here thinks they can rebuild as good as a assembly line where everything is measured, magnafluxed, honed, stainless steel inserts where necesssary, usually to closer tolerances than new.

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I agree that factory rebuilt is the way to go in many instances, but I didn't see any reference where he claims to do better work than a factory hourly laborer. Many here have probably had bad experiences with rebuilt parts (alternators, etc.) to have blind faith they are better than new.

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Whatever you do for a living, I'd hope you are better at it than someone who dabbles at it for a hobby.

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Ouch! I, for one, have often witnessed "amateur/hobbyist" work that surpasses "professional" work because enjoyment, interest, and passion often surpasses minimum wage motivation. I don't quite understand why a personal attack was warranted for someone sharing useful information.

 

[andyd]

I have 3 of the same vehicles. I try to keep a caliper kit on hand. It has come in handy for keeping the cars on the road. I'm just a shade tree hack, but rebuilding a caliper isnt brain surgery. On the ATE calipers on my old bimmers, the main cause of sticky caliper is corrosion on the weather end of the piston. I wire brush the loose crud off and use a small file to smooth out any pits. Because the piston seal is at the weather end, it does not come in contact with any bore pitting which occurs typically at the other end by the bleeder. This isnt the case with a drum type wheel cylinder. I've never had any luck rebuilding those. Once the bore gets pitted , they are junk.

 

[NJC]

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Because the piston seal is at the weather end, it does not come in contact with any bore pitting which occurs typically at the other end by the bleeder.

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I wish that was the case with mine! The bleeder end of piston was smooth as glass ... all of the pitting was concentrated near weather end of caliper–directly over where piston seal will contact.