Rebuilding a stuck caliper, should I also get

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the hardware kit?

I am not going to buy a reman caliper from company like A1 Cardone. I'll probably buy the rebuild kit that has all the rubber parts from Becks Arnley, and clean all the metal parts that I have right now.

Car is a 97 Integra, so the rubber is probably 13 years old.
 
I'd say go for it (granted that the caliper bore is still in good shape and the sliding/guide pin bore is not rusted).

Just remember to buy new pistons along with a caliper rubber rebuild kit (carlson/Wagner/Raybestos) and off you go!

Q.
 
I have found rebuilt calipers are often only 20 bucks more than a rebuild kit, in this case I say get the caliper. As the caliper price increases it makes more and more sence to rebuild them yourself if you have done it before and know the tricks!
 
You may also need a new piston and a hardware kit.

And why do you trust yourself more than the assembly line workers at A1 Cardone to rebuild calipers? Those assembly line workers probably rebuild more calipers everyday then you ever will in your life.
 
Well, the main concern is that my calipers are in good condition and no rust, with original coating. Rebuild calipers, as seen in The Critics' case, rust easily and may not even be as good quality as what I've got.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
You may also need a new piston and a hardware kit.

And why do you trust yourself more than the assembly line workers at A1 Cardone to rebuild calipers? Those assembly line workers probably rebuild more calipers everyday then you ever will in your life.


I've seen your reman calipers, and I'd rather keep mine. It is not the assembly guys that I'm concern about, but the manufacturers' quality control and how much time they allow their guys to spend on each rebuild that I'm concern about.
 
I worked in a store that sold rebuilt calipers and quite a few came back as leakers. Apparently, on some, piston bores were honed and those were usually the ones that leaked. PB, I would do exactly as you plan, put new rubber in your original calipers.
 
Why am I rebuilding? I don't feel comfortable with 13 year old rubber, and it sounds squeaky and stuck. I have time right now but not a few months down the road, so I'd refresh it and go for another 13 years.
 
Minor pitting on the pistons is OK.
The bores should be almost perfect though. You have to clean them thoroughly. Scotchbrite on a rotary tool, drill, whatever works well. The piston/s groove must be really clean.
And of course the sliding pins/bolts must be clean and lubed.

Hardware kit? Depends on if you need it. You can gt it if the parts you take off are questionable.
 
Rebuild the front calipers seals and replace all 4 corners' boot, clean the hardware kits and pins, and apply new grease over the weekend. Ran out of time to do the rear caliper seals rebuild.

The condition of the front caliper seals and boots are still very good, the old rubber is harder than than the new one but still pliable. The boots have some discoloration but still soft, the grease seems dry, sticky and thick but still movable. The hardware kits are gummed up and has minor rust that takes some time to clean well.

Found that the rear pads are worn to the metal back plate at an angle, and uneven between the outer and inner pad. Most likely because the pin and hardware kit grease are old and dirty. It has been around for many years and I used to only apply new grease without cleaning out the old grease before I knew better.

The caliper bores and pistons are in excellent condition, probably better than what I would have gotten if I got a rebuild.
 
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