Rear End LSD on 2010 Crown Vic

So i would encourage you the research the Torsen vs Truetrac.

Also note that unless things have changed there are two Torsens the T2 and the T2R the R being a higher bias, The True Trac falls somewhere between the T2 and T2R in bias the Truetrac is also typically cheaper.

These diffs are similar but not identical. I have a Truetrac in a 9" and it is fairly impressive.

There are also more aggressive options like detroit lockers, which are mostly actually "softlockers" now for reduced noise. There is probably a completely new trac lock available as well, maybe an Eaton Posi.

 
I saw this thread and thought I’d throw this into the discussion..

The 2010 Ford Crown Victoria Interceptor in my signature was cheap because of miles, and the noisy differential. The pinion seal leaked and it whined and groaned. All the time.

I tried the rebuild route, but that didn’t quite work out; the gears were too worn out and the housing too rusty to make it worthwhile.

I found a 3.27 Locking differential axle assembly on car-part.com nearby, and swapped it out. I still have to program the speedometer to the new ratio, but it is dead silent as rear ends go, and cost all of $200, including the labor by an indie I use when I don’t have time to do it myself.

For what it’s worth… 😌
 
Yeah, my buddy has a Torsen, and he didn't tell anyone!!! I drove it tonight being aggressive as I could. Low speed sharp corners, high speed sharp corners, and at good speed and some heavy braking. So that was the absolute most G's the mustang could go to without slipping, and that was with the salt dust on the road.

Not much difference than an LSD. I like the extra service life supposedly from the Torsen, but I have to pass. I found a Ford Racing LSD that comes with carbon clutches and I will be using that. The fact that an LSD can have its clutches replaced is something I thought about and have to agree with the posters above.

Thanks very much for the education fellows!
 
Not only can you replace the clutches in a clutch-type LSD, but you can adjust the breakaway torque easily with the oil mix. The LSD additive you see adds slip, and you can buy gear oil without any to start. Just play with the fluid until you're happy.

Depending on the design, breakaway torque can also be adjusted with a spring inside, which sets the squeeze on the clutch packs. Need more? Put in a stronger spring.

Some of them have a clever way to change bias between forward and reverse (and coasting) - they're known as 2-way or 1.5-way or 1-way. 1-way will be essentially an open diff reverse or coasting; 1.5-way gives some LSD action reverse or coasting; 2-way is the same either direction. The ones I've seen are set by how you assemble it, so it's not hard to change.

While I'm at it: avoid the original Torsen design that has the side helix gears perpendicular to the axle. They are weak. Newer designs, like the TrueTrac, put the side gears parallel to the axle, and are much stronger.

tldr; a clutch LSD is way more adjustable than any gear LSD.
 
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