Rear Differential - Rear Wheel Drive Car

[Rodraid]

I had 3 other cars that I drove over 200,000 miles but my current car is the only one that is rear wheel drive. I never changed the rear differential fluid in my previous cars. My manual just says to inspect the fluid under normal conditions but under severe conditions it states it should be changed every 80,000. My car is definitely not used in severe conditions.

Do you change the fluid or not? I do expect to keep this car for more than 200,000 miles.

Thanks,
Rod

 

[Chris142]

Yes change it

 

[expat]

Most of the cars and trucks I have had have been RWD, most have not had the diff oil changed.

Never had a problem, even upto 500k miles.

But then again, oil is cheap, and if there is a drain plug, why not.

 

[buck91]

I'd hedge my bets on it making it 200k+ on the original oil. But I also wouldn't do that in my own vehicle. Even car/truck is different, or at least some are. I will be doing gear oil in my F150 at 100,000 miles. On my '96 Mustang it was done around 80k miles when I overhauled the limited slip clutches...

 

[barkingspider]

I would go ahead and change it and call it a day

 

[bdcardinal]

I changed the dff fluid in my Mustang at the first oil change at 5k miles. It has a drain and fill plug on the factory cover so it is super easy. No friction modifier required because it has a Torsen diff.

 

[dlundblad]

I hate doing gear oil changes, but yes I would do it.

If I had something with a fill and drain plug, I wouldnt mind it one bit. I just hate taking the cover off, re applying the RTV, torquing all the bolts etc. Quality synthetic FTW in this case!

 

[The_Jeff]

Best idea imo is to dump it at 50k and put some nice syn in and reap mpg gains. The 90 degree turn saps power.

 

[mjoekingz28]

How about if it has a drain and fill plug then it is meant to be changed...if not then just add!?

Maybe you can siphon a couple of ounces to see the condition.

 

[Greasymechtech]

What year make model vehicle and differential?

Fluid is cheaper than a new differential.

 

[Rodraid]

Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
What year make model vehicle and differential?

Fluid is cheaper than a new differential.



2011 Hyundai Genesis with 75,000 miles. I have changed all of the fluids except rear differential and power steering fluid.

Rod

 

[ryanschillinger]

Or you can use an extractor to suck the old fluid out of the fill hole before refilling.

 

[Clevy]

When I acquire a new to me vehicle I always change the fluids,including the diff. The diffs are the only places I will pay the premium for redline gear oil. I've used various different gear oils in various applications. Redline is the best I've ever use in everything from my mustangs,bikes and 4x4s.
I figure because it tends to be a pain in the rear and having to get a new gasket I want the best money can buy. Their gear oils are shear proof and they use nothing but the best basestocks available.
If changing gear oil was easier I might use a less costly alternative however based on the PITA factor I want to extend the interval as best I can.
Anyone who knows me here knows I'm not brand loyal,I'm cash loyal. So I buy on sale syns for oil changes however when it comes to gear oil I'll only buy redline.

 

[Lubener]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I hate doing gear oil changes, but yes I would do it.

If I had something with a fill and drain plug, I wouldnt mind it one bit. I just hate taking the cover off, re applying the RTV, torquing all the bolts etc. Quality synthetic FTW in this case!


Get a suction gun to extract the oil if you don't want to mess with gaskets. Some punkins do not have a removable cover and suction gun comes in handy here. You'll get 99 percent of it.

 

[Shannow]

Even diffs without a "drain plug" per se, there's usually one cover or pumpkin bolt (the lowest) that is drilled through and will let you drain.

Anyway, I would change it, every 50k km or thereabouts.

 

[JR]

My personal vehicle see diff changes based on miles/operation.
I have two many vehicles, equipment, and toys.
I have a 5gal pail traveller 85w-140 waiting for some free time.
98 tracker diff's
93 metro. Transaxle
97 F250HD 7.3/auto. Diff
93 GMC 1500 6.5l/auto. Diff
98 GMC1500 z71. Diffs
Only one is not mine, I know. Bad


-Harvey

 

[MCompact]

Every 60k on my street cars; every 30k on my track rats.

 

[Kestas]

The most important lube change is the one after break-in, which is reportedly at 5K for differentials. You want to get the debris out of there. Remember there are bearings in the units lubricated with unfiltered lube.

Transmission, transfer, and diff cases are notoriously dirty in the as-sold condition. With automakers shaving robustness out of designs and moving toward fill-for-life, we are now beginning to see many bearings suffer and fail from debris denting. Instead of putting robustness back into bearings and upping the change schedule, the OEM and Tier 1 manufacturers are asking bearing manufacturers to provide bearings with more dent resistance. This is difficult and expensive to do, as the material used to make bearings (52100 steel) hasn't changed in many decades.

So my point is to emphasize the first change after break-in, then use a change schedule that is specified by the manufacturer, or a schedule you're comfortable with... 30K, 50K, or 100K.

 

[Buick8]

Read last night that recent Corvette engine troubles were traced to slivers of machining swarf remaining behind after machining of the oil filter parts, I think this was the dry-sump engines.
Of course, if it's downstream of the filter, you've had it anyway.

 

[wander2039]

Making that debate myself right now. The RV(Chevy 3500) has 40k but is 12 years old. Have only changed the gear lube on 2 trucks up to this date. The F150 at 80k came out looking like new fluid, waste of money it seemed. The Ranger was another story but don't think it was synthetic like the F150. But back to the RV.. pretty sure it was never changed and runs 140-150 degrees after a 65mph run on the highway. Think I'll do a small extraction with the mityvac.